When I put my roadster together, I bought and installed an Austin Healy deck lit handle, and never gave any thought to actually latching the trunk lid when I mounted it. I'm now looking at being able to latch the trunk lid (my wife would like to be able to lock it if we leave stuff in it shopping or at the beach), and I wonder if any of you with a stock Model A could tell me the distance from the edge of trunk lid to the shaft of the handle. I did put it dead center but have no idea of the dimension of the stock latch and how the striker is located. Where I have it there's only an inch and half from the center of handle shaft to the bottom of the skin, and on the inside I have 5/8" from the inner panel to the bottom edge of the shaft, so there probably isn't room for an original style latch, but I thought maybe someone could tell me the measurements of the stock bits. Thanks!
This is a Vintique replacement, exact dimensions of the original. The center of the shaft is 1 7/8" from the deck lid bottom edge. I have an original here as well if you need to see it.
Does the Austin Healy latch use a handle with square drive? Keep latch and replace handle with a Ford or other locking handle?
Crawl inside the trunk with a flashlight a ruler, paper and pen and design what you need to make it latch.
No, I like the Healy handle and it's graceful bezel. The issue is I didn't think about a latch, consequently I had placed it exactly 1/2" too low. I can make a latch and striker, I wanted to use a Ford latch. Yes, the shaft is square, like a Ford handle. Or garage door handle...
Thanks. I've got it 1/2" too close to the edge. Darn. A little forethought would have been a good idea...
The Latch lock mount that mounts in drain channel of rear pan , for A's & 32's are not made correct to Originals , modifications to the aftermarket required, So might be better to make your own , If purchasing aftermarket , the J lock hook, Your can make the Round to adapt the square J hook & shorten to your needs With thought
Good point. I simply welded a 3/8" bolt in the drain channel and it works great but it is not quite as easily done on a finished car. That in my view is the main hurdle here. A bolt in solution would be best. The 1/2" discrepancy really doesn't matter. A bolted in latch will provide the needed location without altering the handle location. There is plenty of room in the drain channel. Myself, I would fabricate a slotted for adjustment latch and fasten it by using a couple of "rivnuts" to bolt to..
Actually this has gotten pushed WAY back in my list. We went up to Orange Beach for a visit with my wife sister, and my wife was fractured her elbow playing pickle ball. This required a weeks stay over the week were already planning on being there to get her elbow pinned back together, as we felt it'd take longer to get in and be seen then get her on a surgery schedule here in Sarasota. So, we're just back now and I'm kinda on nurse duty whilst she is recovering. The roadster trunk latch can wait, I think I've got figured out how to make it work but it's not that important right now.
I have a DR buddy I golf with, and he brags often about the great life he has made treating "aging athletes". A hole! Men's softball alone built his house on the river. Take care of your misses, that there is good karma. On my roadster I installed a teardrop handle that I bought form Limeworks (I think). The handle is just so I don't mar the paint opening and closing, the lid is latched on a cable that is ran into the door jamb.
Not sure why he needs to be called an "a hole", especially after reading your signature. He provides a life-improving service and gets well paid for it. So what? Where would all the still-gonna-play softball guys be if he wasn't around to fix them up??
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