I have a 1964 Chevy C30 panel. I want to change the intake from a 2 bbl carb to a 4 bbl carb. any any suggestions as to where i can get a new intake and carb?
This isn't...April 1 is it...! Seriously ? Ironman, have you heard of the Internet ? See the sites noted above. I'm sorry...but... Mike
Why, and what do you hope to gain? Carburetors and intake manifolds to not make power. An engine will draw in the air and fuel that is necessary for operation, irrespective of what is on top of it. Sure, there might be some very minor efficiency gains due to better manifold design, but that may not even be noticeable.
Scrapyard Marketplace Craigslist Swap meets Parts store E-bay Amazon The dude down the street that messes with junk Local race car guys
I had to look to see when you joined the HAMB to make sure that you weren't a troll with that question. There's almost always an Edelbrock Performer intake for the older small blocks on FB market place for between 50 and 75 dollars. Carb I'd buy new unless you are good at rebuilding carbs.
If you'd like a 4bbl on your truck , for whatever reason , you might consider a QJet carb & manifold , there should still be some left around , they're fairly straightforward to set up & best of all , you may experience some mileage , drive ability , advantage Without " over carbing" your engine . Take a walk through cruise nights / shows , A FEW of the car owners know a bit about their cars , it's up to you to seek them out . Try not to pay too much attention to the x-spurts negative Nancy's about .
Used to be you couldn't walk into anyone's garage without tripping over a iron SBC manifold, a lot of times with the carb still bolted on! (sometimes even a Q-jet!). You got this OP, probably thousands of 'em stuffed under workbench's, everywhere USA. Go to a cruise-in and ask around, even new they're pretty reasonable. I got an Edlebrock CB3 a few years ago for $20, from a scrapper (just in time)!
If they didn't go in " the purge" a few years ago , I may still have one , used to be a Tupperware box with 1/2 dozen q-jets in it ... Interesting that the first suggestions were to buy new ....things have changed ...
I recently scrapped one because I didn't want to lift it more than the one time it took to get it off the engine
Heck, I carried around an Aluminum intake from strat to end of a swap meet. By the time I went home I thought it had turned into an FE intake!
I don't know where you got that info but it's absolutely false, an intake and carb can certainly improve hp and sometimes even milage. The original poster should post where he's from and what he's looking for, someone may have something just laying around.
I've surely felt seat of the pants difference going from a 2 barrel to a 4. Besides that there is the aesthetic improvement as well, and that can be worth the expense, time and hassle of the installation.
From my Automotive Engineering Masters Degree program, and subsequent long term testing at General Motors.
The maximum horsepower and torque that a given engine is capable of producing is primarily controlled by compression ratio, and camshaft architecture, with combustion chamber design, port design (flow characteristics), valve size, etc. controlling the rest. In the case of a naturally aspirated configuration, that has venturi dependent fuel delivery (aka: a conventional carburetor, or carburetors), all that those air and fuel delivery components can do is place limits on those potential maximums. Why? A conventional carburetor, or carburetors function by creating a restriction in the intake tract. This is how fuel is pulled into the air stream. How much air goes in can only be limited by a carburetor, or carburetors. When you alter the original configuration, all you are doing is tinkering with the restriction, in other words, you are NOT making more power, you might be losing less power. More likely is that you will move the occurrence of the horsepower and torque peaks, with any gains coming from incidentally better intake flow dynamics. In some cases, you might be able to flatten the torque curve to an extent, so that it is more uniform. This comes at a price. If you increase the combined venturi cross section, you may very well move the horsepower and torque peaks to higher numbers, while you lose the precise low speed fuel metering. If you live life in 1320-ft. intervals, that works out fine. On a street-bound vehicle, it can bring sadness and regret. It is very difficult to describe to a hot rodder, in any terms that they will accept, that the perception of secondaries being introduced, while "cool", "exciting", and "interesting", is actually a tuning defect. Yes, some fuel delivery systems reduce potential power less, but they don't "make more", absent any other fundamental changes. You can claim better, but it is really just less bad. The only way out of this conundrum is to switch from passive fuel delivery to active fuel delivery, which is not only why carburetors are no longer installed on new vehicles, it is also a topic that is not permitted on this board.
As for the OP, if he has a 2-barrel equipped 350, assuming that it is an OEM configuration, it is from 1969 or later. There were only a few years of the 350 that had remarkable performance before the malaise-era, and oil-embargos took hold. A high-performance 2-barrel 350 is not a thing. If an actual performance upgrade is desired, and I meal real measurable performance gains, not just the "cool factor", the 2-barrel can stay. The cam, lifters, valve springs, and exhaust should be changed first.
Pretty sure that generation of panel vans only came with a pea shooter. SBC intakes won't do much for a Turbo Thrift, which is probably why he asked in the first place. Also 3 posts in 9 years, I'm not holding my breath. Hey Gimpy, what about replacing the 2bbl with a Vara-Jet?
well money tree has not bloomed yet. summit wants a arm and a leg havent checked jegs yet . i will after i get off o here
The Jalopy Journal
