The Model A came with a 9 inch rear end (76 Bronco) set up with 4.11 gears. Thanks to your help I was able to remove the old shackle bushings. Next stage... In setting up the shackle mounts the prior owner removed the backing plates. I'm almost ready to put them on. And, of course, I need to pull the axles to do so. I've never worked on a rear and before. This SEEMS straightforward - remove the bolts holding the axle in and pull the axle out. Install the backing plates and put the axle back in. I'm sure there'll be a challenge getting the inboard end of the axle to re-engage the gear assembly. My questions (and feel free to point out what I miss): How hard is it to remove and re-install the axles? Will there be some resistance when I try to pull the axles? Will I need to replace the seals when I do this? I have some, but am not clear on how to install new ones. I'm sure I'm missing some things, definitely a case of "I don't know what I don't know"
Once the job is behind you you'll think, "that was simple"! FIRST OFF!! If it's a posi track DO NOT turn one axle after removing the other! Period! Yes they just slide in and out generally. The inner seal does not always need replacing. If your lucky and the bearings have been replaced you'll probably have sealed bearings on the axles so no worries. Just a little pop or 2 from behind the flange being you don't have the backing plates in the way, and they should slide right out.
Assuming you have all the brake hardware disconnected/removed- the axles maybe snug in the housing, but using a slide hammer hooked to one of the lugs will get it out (assuming you have removed the flange bolt nuts). Pay attention to what gaskets are in between the backing plate and axle tube, as well if any between the flange and backing plate. I have seen gaskets in both, either paper or metal. Replacing the seals involves getting the old ones out. A hooked slide hammer will work, or I have used a claw hammer to pry them out. Installing the new ones is best done with a seal driver, but the correct diameter socket or piece of pipe will work as long as they are driven in square. I have found the easiest way to reinstall the axles is to make an L shaped tool with flat bar to bolt to onto one of the lugs. If the other side of the flat bar is long enough, it makes lifting the inboard end of the axle easy.
I’ve always, with a few exceptions, had to use a slide hammer or a spare tire with a chain passing through the wheel opening, some slack in the chain, and a good roll to let inertia do the work to pull an axle. Never had an issue getting the splines to line up, and don’t understand why you shouldn’t rotate the assembly with one of the axles out. That doesn’t make sense to me as nothing’s indexed for reassembly. Just 28 or 31 symmetrically spaced splines. Be careful not to drag the splines over the lip of the seal.
In my experience, you'll almost always need some sort of puller arrangement to get the axles out, due to rust or whatnot. But sometimes they'll just pull right out. It's the reinstall that will tell the story. If the housing is clean and reasonably straight, the axle should push in by hand or with some light to medium tapping. But if the bearing only goes in 1/2 to 2/3 of the way and you have to really beat on it to get it all in, you have a bent housing and may face poor bearing life. AMHIK... The Wizzard sez.. "The part I think that's being missed or maybe not known is the POSI part in my statement. In a multi disc Positrac center section each disc has splines that corollate with the splines on the Axle Shaft. If you have the driven axle out of the Clutch pack and turn the spider gear side you run a very high risk of having a drive disc rotate with the R&P and change the alignment of the disc pack. The end result of that is you get to remove the center section and set the drive pack up again. Notice the splines in the center of the steels." So you couldn't insert the axle and while applying pressure, have a helper turn the other wheel to re-align the splines?
If it is a Traction Lock [stock Ford] the clutch pack will keep things aligned; or should, healthy spring pressure. Since it is together there should be no worries.
I’ve had luck mounting a brake drum inside out on lugs, then evenly screwing on 3 nuts with slack. The drum acts as a slide hammer. A few slaps and out it came.
The way I read the opening post sounds to me like O.P. paulsherman is working with a lot of unknown. My intent was to help him avoid needing someone to help or try to get things back in place by not creating the issue to start with. If it's an open diff there's nothing to worry about. If you don't know, you don't know. It's never a big deal until it's too late. I'd rather he didn't end up there.
to remove the axle seal just put the axle shaft spline about an inch through the seal and lever out the seal
I think a 1976 axle has tapered bearings with a seal that fits the large OD of the housing. No need to remove a seal from the housing, it will come out with the axle. Easy as it gets.
Thanks all for the guidance. This is a partially built estate car. While a LOT of things were done and documented, there's some things that are unknown. I do have the receipt from the company that worked on the rear end. Per that they replaced all bearings and seals. The receipt also mentions a "Track Loc" carrier - is that the Ford term for posi? I tried to contact the company that did the work, but they closed down. The car was rolling when I got it, but none of the brake work was done. The backing plates were off and they had most of the brake hardware (just missing wheel cylinder bolts and pins). The owner's friends may have just installed the axles to get the car rollable for moving and sale. The front was in about the same shape - the split hairpins were unsecured at the back and the front spring wasn't square with the frame.
Trac-loc was and is a term used for factory clutch type posi unit. Although many aftermarket companies use that term too. But in every case I know of, trac-loc always means it's a clutch plate style posi.... ....
Each auto manufacturer had a trade name for their clutch disk limited slip differentials. GM Positraction (Positive-Traction on early versions) FoMoCo Traction-Lok or Equa-Lok (older) Mopar Sure-Grip Dana Trac-Lok or Powr-Lok(has cam wedge that increases clutch load on drive, releases on coast) Detroit Automotive Products No-Spin (ratcheting teeth, not clutch type) Special order dealer installed accessory.
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