Projects Bought a Mercury on purpose

I noticed when doing the brakes on the Merc that it shared shoes and other parts with f100s. Plus most of this stuff fits lot is the same era rides. So we did this

added f100 self adjusters. Fits and works. But I need to either swap out the anchor pin (red arrow)or needs to be modified or change out.

we”ll get it handled

 

I have done that before and did 2 things to help the fit of the Spring. The retainer plate that keeps the Shoes on is quite thick. I took them over to my Belt Sander and removed about 20 % of the thickness. That can be some fun but got it done. I ended up using my Stud Gun and sticking 2 nails on each wing tip so I could get some pressure on the belt with it before they Flew away. Next was a Chain Saw round file and gently filed on the back side of the head of the dowel on just half of the back side where the spring makes contact. I think that was somewhere around 1975 and they are still doing the job. You just have to make sure when doing brakes to put the springs back on the same way so it drops behind the dowel head correctly.

 

Our auto tech instructor just visited, said he might have some shoe retainers that are thinner.
If not, we’ll thin the ones we have down.
Just needs a little for that spring to hook correctly.

 

I always closed the springs up after they were on. I liked to see a 180 degree bend, maybe a manifestation of my OCD...

 

Yep.
This ones barley hanging on. We’ll do that after we get the spring to seat properly

 

I used to see that on many a DIY brake job came in for us to fix. They usually came in with a box of loose brake pieces and of course had the shoes on backwards.

 

Finally got an OD early style trans

last major part I needed.

 

I know you're there to Teach and probably plan to hand wire in the O.D harness in but,, Sometimes it's okay to let the students it's good to buy prefab parts to help the small guys stay around for those that can't hand build. Did you know that Rhode Island Wiring makes a complete stand-alone O.D. harness with correct ends and color correct cloth wrapped wire? On top of that very cost effective at $175.oo. I wonder if they would give a brake to the School for a tax write off?

 

The car belongs to me. So I don’t accept any donations unless the donations are for the class and not parts for a personal build. A school funded build would be different. I purchase parts and pay taxes on em through a commercial account.
When building the bus, a groups donated $$ that allowed us to purchase things we normally couldn’t. Our automotive class got a nice engine test stand and we got metal fab equipment.
I funded the build for a submission in a rodent build off contest. The school reimbursed a lot of $$$ spent on the trip. Hotels, fuel and some food. Like a field trip. I don’t turn in miles for any shows I attend.
But the OD itself. I do have a complete reproduction OD wiring harness that was purchased for a Studebaker. Same r10 unit and possible very similar in wiring. Kinda thought about just toggle switching it.
I should have a couple 12v solenoids and I don’t think the governor cares.
But I haven’t heard of that set up you mentioned and I’ll check it out. Sounds cool.

Thanks for that info

 

The trans was interesting.
I was about to drive 5 hours one way to grab one from the classifieds.
I’ve got like 3 gm ones. But I’ve got everything to hook the merc trans to the 283. Using the Merc unit means a lot less fab work and moving things around. The gm one is 3/4 shorter. So moving the already built engine mounts back or splitting the difference with the rear end. Or toss the 3:92 merc rear for a 9 inch with 300ish gears and keep the no -od trans
A builder I know had this trans. I’ve been talking with him about selling it for over a year.
Sent him one last text just to make sure before I confirm heading out early to grab the other one. He said he’d let it go around 9:00 last night. The wife was happy she didn’t have to ride shotgun for 10-11 hours.

 

Look what I found

 

Got a chipped tooth or 2 on the cluster. Typical 1st /reverse non sync looking gear. The cluster and 1st/reverse look better in my no -OD trans.


I think I’ll clean it up and use it. looks like most of all the other 3 speeds I look it

 

Right On! I like the way you operate. Those kids and the School have a pretty good deal going on. I've been buying from R.I.W. for longer that I can remember. If you have never done it take the time to open their web site and go to Supplies section. That's where you get new vintage terminals, junctions cloth wrap with tracers and so much more. Their inventory is priceless when you need Old School electrical components.

 

I can remember back in the 60's opening a used replacement unit for a Look See and seeing much the same thing. My Dad was looking over my shoulder and said, You'll be fine as long as you come to a full stop before dropping in first. Make sure you get the chips out of there and put it in your car.

 

That’s the plan.

 

I used JB weld to glue a couple rare earth magnets in the drain and fill plugs, catches all the shrapnel.

 

Compared to what I’m running those gears are near perfect

 

You could change the gear sets between the two transmissions. When I was 16 I had a 56 Victoria with a floor shift. I broke 9 transmissions in that car. It got to where all I could find in the yards were overdrives. Shifter wouldn't work with them. I got real good at swapping the gears out of the OD trans into my trans case and tailshaft.

 

“Built” a Saginaw and Muncie 3 speed OD earlier last year.
For both I swapped regular 3 speed guts into an OD case. Only rear difference is an extra hole for the reverse lock out to pass thru. The outputs are OD specific. That’s about it.
I think I’ll clean this one up and use it. But I’ll keep the non-od around for parts. Keep a look out at swaps for parts.

 

Getting closer

been slow. The student is working on another project for a competition. A new student he helped teach how to weld is taking over for now. So far the other student is doing good.
About time to file the gap straight.

 

getting close to getting this dialed in
Showed em some metal finishing tricks. I little more fill work at the top with the welder.
They started working the gap with a file.

 

Mercury is looking good Anthony

 

Picked up a pilot bushing adapter. Not every day you find one on a shelf
Bottom is the new one

 

Great idea!

I’d never had self adjusting drums until I got my Merc, they’re brilliant, I’d have had to adjust my brakes a couple of times last year if they weren’t fitted.

 

If this were to happen in my shop the next question would be, "wonder what it fits"?

 

Dude has a box full of pilot bushings. Some still in offenhouser wrappers.
This one was settin on top when I walked by.
It looked like the one I needed so I gambled $15

 

Rattle can rebuild on the trans

the solenoid with it was 6v as expected

the one from my parts stash came up 12v on a Google search

And works. Now to get the reverse switch figured out.
The GM set ups I have don’t use one. All of them have internal reverse safety mechanisms.
But the switch would also shut off the solenoid causing the OD key to disengage. I kinda like that

 

Started headlight #2
They’ll get better at that tack welding

Earlier this week I got the crank drilled for a dampener bolt and polished the journals.
Now to finish cleaning up the block
This timing cover came off the mock up engine.


gonna pass on using that.

 

I had a couple of cars with overdrive, a 54 Mercury and a 58 Impala. I don't remember any reverse switch in the overdrive circuit. Also, my Ford shop manuals do not show a switch for reverse except for the backup lights. Switching off the solenoid wouldn't allow reverse to work. At any rate the solenoid would not be energized when the car is setting still. The problem with reverse is the overrunning clutch. The only way to get the car to move in reverse is to physically move the sun gear into the planet pinion carrier. That locks the overdrive gear train up and allows the car to operate in reverse. It does the same thing as pulling out the OD cable handle. It is handled with internal linkage in the internal shift mechanism that moves the sun gear when you select reverse.

 

The switch goes here. (Yellow circle)

the gm versions I have don’t have one
It’s the overdrive lockout switch in this diagram

it’s wired to the kickdown switch here

is it cutting power off to the solenoid?
Breaking a ground?
The switch is open (the one I have anyway) when in reverse actuated by the internal mechanism that pulls the trans out of OD when shifted into reverse.
There’s several different wiring configurations.
The 3 Studebaker units I have use this switch.