Having some thoughts about buying a Winters quick change rearend. My concerns are about how robust they actually are. I'm a 9" Ford guy, and I'm wondering if they are up to handling an engine with 500/600 lbs/ft of torque and some wide tires.....but in a reasonably light car (32 Cpe). I know the ones with angular gears aren't as strong as the straight cut gears and I don't think I would care for the whining noise. What have you experienced...............
They claim the V8 is good to 500 HP+ and the Champ much much more. Stick with the straight cut spur gears if applying lots of horse power. I have lost count how many Winters V8 & Champ rears I've sold with no problems. I've personally used several of both with good results. Gary at Cornhusker Rod & Custom
There are a few guys using them for drag racing, not very many. It is a really neat concept, and they work great for land speed racing and sprint cars, where traction is usually limited, and getting just the right gear ratio is really important.
Ran a Hallibrand Champ rear in my sprint car for many years with over 500 hp. On a tacky track the car would pull the front end so I was putting a lot of torque through the rear axle. Admittedly it was a real light car.
I would have to ask around but I am sure you can look it up, but unless I'm mistaken all your Late Model Stock and Late Model round track cars run some type of quick change. They make 5 - 600 HP depending on the class. They haven't used a 9in in years.
Winters makes quick change rears for many racing classes. But if you look at the hot rod category they list the steel tube and bell V-8 rears for 600 HP. The steel tube and bell Champ at 1,000 HP. I assume for the street you will not run a spool, so I would think you most likely would not hurt a V-8 rear in a light car. Usually in a light car with lots of HP getting it hooked is the hard part. If you have any concerns about the helical gears, give them a call.
I've got one in a street legal car. Been there for some time. Although right now, It's not in the 500 hp range, it WAS bought for that. A couple of phone calls to them and to Speedway Engineering (SoCal). I bought without concern. Mike
I have a Frankland with a locker in my truck behind a pretty stout 463" Pontiac. I'm not worried about the rearend. Maybe drag racing with slicks I'd be concerned.
I've got a Frankland with Jones magnesium bells going in my 500hp 1960 Falcon gasser with a Mopar small block and faceplated a833 4speed. 12 inch wide street legal stickies out back. I've never been afraid of it's durability, until I decided this year to include the 4 speed. I'm somewhat leery, now. It'll never see a prepped track---late night street stalking only (aside from cruising). It does have a full spool, just because I'm stupid like that. I know they are plenty beefy and the dirt burner circle track guys do see a ton of shock load from 900hp loading and unloading the tires over and over. but that's not at 2900 to 3100 pounds. We'll just have to see... -rick
Do you have any other pics of how you anchored that wishbone to the snout? I'd love to run one in my 4 linked falcon on the street, but: A. Dont know how streetable a wishbone is B. Dont know how to mount to the front retainer I've seen the top mounts for circle trackers to mount pull bars, but those are different forces than a wishbone. What did you use? -rick
You do in a sprint car between races as the track slicks off. The gears are quite hot when the car comes off the track.
I have, but only while searching for my perfect ratio. Turns out a engine with near 600lbs of torque in a 2700 lb vehicle doesn't need much gear. I'm at a 3.26 right now. Takes longer to dump the oil back in than it does to swap gears. And used gears are dirt cheap.
I put a champ in my roadster when I built it. Just a street car but I’ve side stepped the clutch a time or two and like a Timex, it takes a licking and keeps on ticking…. Well, keeps on whining My Flathead only puts out 300+ Hp. Don’t judge.
Speaking of change gears (who was?), decades ago I borrowed a lower pair to use with my Cyclone at the drags. I broke the back plate. I didn't know that pairs came in different widths, and these were too narrow and slapped the back plate. The replacement Cyclone part had not been drilled for the 6 studs. That's how they did them back then -- and maybe the cause of the threads sticking out the sides of the banjos (correction -- not the banjos, but the housing sides) in a couple of places. I'd imagine that the present setups are drilled in a more accurate manner.
Nice! Btw BB, how far apart are the 2 torque arm brackets on your qc at the axle? That kind of setup would simplify things under the Whatever a lot! You can see the linkage it has now.
Buy the Quickchange and forget about it. You don't have enough 'power' to hurt it. I prefer the larger units, so there is never a question. Either Gary (@krylon32 ) or I can help you spec it out. Repeating what I have said many times before, "Horsepower won't kill a Quickchange. Torque, Sticky Tires, and dropping the hammer 'might'. It's all about the shock loads!!!!!! Jamie Frankland told me that the strength of a QC falls between a Ford 9" and a Dana 60. Mark Williams says the 9" is stronger than the Dana! I started building QCs because to build a 9" with some of the better parts was about the same cost. Add in your first ring and pinion to get a different ratio and the Quickie deal gets even better.
Rick - No, no detail shots of the wishbone to frame pictures. A. As long as the wishbone is firmly braced, as mine is (store bought), I feel VERY safe with it. I've done some hard cornering with it, with no problems, noises, or other concerns. B. Front retainer ? Don't understand the question. C. Here's the slider mount. I have aluminum spacers to take up the extra space between the rod end and the bracket. Hope these help some. Mike
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