Alright contacted @Stogy about Stude parts and made it to the garage this morning! I used some lube, a step bit, and a caliper to get the fan drilled out to Stude size. I didn’t have a size that was exactly right so I drilled to the closest under sized option and then hand filed the last 1/16” to fit the pump going on the car. took about an hour, still got a mess to clean up tonight.put the pulley on the pump and fit again still good so I put it on the stuck pump on the engine looks good! I think the pulley needs shimmed forward to clear the pump housing but it’s minimal to get it to align and I think I have some shims on hand. i need to adjust a few things but I think I’m going to land at just over 1/2” clearance to the radiator both top and bottom and the fan landed pretty dang close to center of the radiator. this is why I wasn’t to concerned about the ugly flex fan. Standing directly to the side of the grill shell you can hardly see it… and I’m running a full hood most the time. the pump isn’t big at all so I think I’m going to rebuild the stuck one and throw it in the go bag. Won’t find one at Napa! next step will be tacking some braces and putting the cowl top back on to fit the hood and start on motor mounts.
It needs some tweaks but yeah I think it worked out pretty good! I think this summer I’m going to buy some more files. Something about hand filing something for an hour itches a part of my brain in a good way lol
Hey, Tim; They do make a heavy-duty h2o pump, if you care. Easily found at a few of the "usual suspects" (hi-po suppliers w/in SDC). Marcus...
Yeah? I think maybe I saw some on eBay now that you mention them. I started nosing around looking for rebuild kits. Speedway had a brand new pump for like six months but looks to be discontinued now. I’ll have to look further into the heavy duty item.
Well I went and cleaned up and started mocking up engine and trans mounts this morning. Wouldn’t you know it the hemi mounts are now pretty much dead on! The motor side needs to be a different width to work with the tabs on the Stude. Either going inside or outside etc. and I think one more hole but dang I didn’t expect them to be so on the money! I still need to experiment and see how much squish I’m going to see when I sit the engine on them. Shouldn’t be a hard thing to do. On the drivers side the frame mount may need to be clearanced or narrowed to clear the steering box. It’s very close I’ll bee to further mock that up. anyhow there’s todays update. I’m back and forth between measuring a ton so that the engine lands in the exact same spot after the mounts are done. And finding some way to hold the engine in place with the motor mounts unobstructed so I can just built them in place. Be a good time for a motorcycle hoist I could sneak under the oil pan lol maybe I can make a wood stand that holds the engine by the oil pan flange? That seems simple enough
@Tim_with_a_T yup that’s the basic idea. Get everything square and level and then sneak that in there to keep it put. we’ll see. Hope to get a little welding done in the morning and get the hood/ grill/ radiator all back on with the fan for a final fit check. Mess with the mounts some more and maybe throw a seat in the car to see how this is all changing throttle placement options.
It works slick! As heavy as that flathead is all equipped, it rolls around the shop easily and securely. I lend it out all the time. I should put a library card on it so I know who checked it out last.
@Bandit Billy you could make a little stainless pocket to put the card in on it. It’s actually a really cool idea. can you imagine one of your cool old hot rod finds having a check out card on it? It would be phenomenal
I need to add one to the family Playboys dad left me. Someone checked out March 1990 and never returned it. Gladly pay for it's return, no questions asked. My collection is naked without it.
Alright got it back together! I can’t believe it actually fits lol. This should look wild with just hood sides on, that’s always been in my head as an option. Really the distributor needs less clearance than the edge of the bell housing does. I’ve got the section I removed from the firewall and have held it up a few times. I’m back and forth between weather I’ll use that piece manipulated to fit the space or just make a whole new panel. I think I’ll make one from cereal box cardboard and then see how close the existed piece of metal I have is or isn’t. ive got about 4 inches from the top of the carb to the radiator stay rods. Should be plenty of room for a good filter, I may need to pull the entire threaded rod instead of just the wing nut when removing it. I think some dirt track cars use a little dzus style fitting. That could also be an option trying to get everything parallel I moved the bottom of the radiator forward. This entire time I’ve been just lining up the holes in the radiator feet with the holes in the crossmember. Well scoot it forward and put the hood on and dang if that hood doesn’t line up perfect. I’ll figure that all out later I guess. But for now gravity and the stay rods are keeping it in place fine. wall to wall engine! im really looking forward to emptying the shelves and putting all the little do dads and trinkets back on. good stuff.
Just sitting there in your last photo it looks darn good. I'm amazed how little issue the distributor clearance to the firewall looks to be.
Yeah it was a lot of dancing around to get there that’s for sure. I think once i have the filler piece made I’m going to tack it and then pull the motor and trans and then put it back in just to be sure. sometimes because it can land in in that spot doesn’t mean it’s got a good path to that spot And if it looks good now wait til the front isn't on a stack of 2x4’s!
A quick “do these fit?” Trip to the garage. master cylinders fit and clear the valve cover enough to remove it with out anything else being in the way. Gonna have to watch line routing but should be ok. Seen to many hemi cars that need them removed to get the cover off! this old 49? Ish dodge? Old filter fits where the option Studebaker one would have fit. I have it upside down because I didn’t want to remove the hard lines just for this look see. The vehicle this came off and the Stude are both vehicles that did not have a full pressure oiling system So I’m thinking it should work as is once mounted and a new drop in filter installed. my size 13 extra wide feet? I put a floor board and drivers seat in the car and tried it out. Clutch and brake feel great. The throttle is going to have to be a spoon of sorts over the bell housing but it feels like I can get to that “spot” without moving my heel from the braking position. I believe I can make it fit for my wife’s foot and mine as I tended to like the pad further down my foot anyways. only photo I didn’t take is shifter location. The t90 shifter conversion puts the shifter more or less center of that rectangle my throttle foot is leaning on. I’m thinking the solution is bending a rod into a 39’ ford swan neck and matting it to the t90 lever. Cover the splice with a shifter boot and bobs your uncle. Might need to jog it to clear my knee but that’s a bunch of mocking up down the road. It also needs to not slam my first into the dash when shifting into second. But that’s all a project for a different day.
"The vehicle this came off and the Stude are both vehicles that did not have a full pressure oiling system" . ??? Do you mean full-flow filtering vs bypass filtering. maybe? Stude engines were full pressure since the days of dippers. Marcus...
@nrgwizard i think you have it right. I was thinking there was a change in 62 to the oiling system? Maybe it’s just the filtering.I know this motor didn’t even come with a filter from the factory. It was listed as an option? Way back when I found this filter I found it to be on a bunch of different stuff but 49 dodge is what stuck in my head. If it needs to be modified to flow more I had already figured that out for the last engine I was going to use it with. Can you explain a little further about the oiling/filter changes as it seems I’m a little off on what I thought was correct.
My 62 Bel Air with the 235 Stovebolt 6 had an external filter. The filter feed line was damaged and replaced, and it caused the bottom end to be starved of oil. The orifice on the feed line is extremely important so that you're not taking all the oil from the bottom of the engine but rather just a small amount. Assuming that's how your Stude works as well, pay close attention to that. If not, the results can be disastrous.
Tim, in late 62 Studebaker converted their 6&8 cylinder engines from partial flow filtering to full flow. the easiest way to ID a full flow V8 engine is the spin on filter is on the lower rear passenger side of the motor. All others before that had the partial flow filter on top at the front of the engine.
There we have it. I think that this filter should work as is then? to make it work on the later motors I see guys drill about 30 more holes in the center rod and upsize the hard line diameter basically. I would plumb this as stock, I believe it had a hardline feed and then fed back to the engine via the breather stand which then drips the oil over the timing gear on its way back to the oil pan.
I don't know what the diameter of the original tubing is and/or what size the orifice diameter is. I have a 59 parts motor and can check that stuff tomorrow if you want me to. I think that if you use the filter can you have pictured paired with the original Stude plumbing attached you should be safe.
That would be great man I would really appreciate it! This has no plumbing so even photos showing the routing would be great.
And while I’m here I did something obvious and googled “t90 long shifter” and this early jeep shifter looks like it would be a great starting point!
It was over 20 years ago when we turned my son's 289 into full flow. We tapped into oil gallies on the back of the block behind the flywheel and ran lines to a remote filter. I think we found that modification in one of Dick Dotson's books. I can't remember what we did to the bypass valve. The Jeep T90 top palate swap is what I have planned for the T86 for my roadster. The one I have matches the T86 holes perfectly. There is some modification needed to the forks on the top plate and the low/reverse has to be cut and part of the T86 fork left to work the reverse kick out switch on the back of the case.
Cool. I saved all the info… somewhere in using the t90 on this over drive trans. Looks pretty straight forward. A 39 ford shifter is so stinking close to the same, even the bolt pattern that I’m curious if anyone’s ever made one work in that space. I’m going to grab mine and sit it on top of the trans to see how shifter placement feels. that and making hot rod noise is always better with a shifter in hand lol
I think I’ve saved some of my info from that page @Six Ball grabbed the 39 and went for a quick look just now. told ya it was close! looks like a full 39’ would be to long. My hand is more or less where the knob need to be. basicslly where that last bend up begins gonna say that’s pretty dang close!
The Jalopy Journal
