Featured Technical Aluminum radiators.... what's the consensus?

So in my continuing quest for parts for my '60 Sunliner, I need to replace the radiator at some point. The one that's in it isn't correct and the car runs hot in slow traffic. The surge tank is MIA and the radiator installed looks like a '59 version with the top tank. I've acquired a good OEM surge tank so I just need the right radiator. Plenty of choices, but nearly all are aluminum. Prices are all over the map...

So this one caught my eye... 1960-1963 Ford Galaxie Black Radiator Aluminum Big Block | eBay
This one has stamped OEM-style tanks rather than usual fabricated ones which is a big plus IMO. And it comes painted black rather than raw aluminum, another plus. Not the cheapest, but not the more expensive either. The vendor is All City Classics, but these are also sold by Summit and Jegs for roughly the same price, although not in black.

So, two questions: anybody have experience with this style/brand, and does painting one impact it's cooling ability? ACC paints them in-house with Eastwood radiator paint for a $50 premium (which given what the paint costs isn't a bad deal). Eastwood claims their paint won't impede cooling.

The intended motor is going to be a 445" FE stroker, manual trans and no AC.

The next issue is finding a fan clutch that fits...

 

I have a cheap Champion aluminum radiator in my 49 Buick, cooling a Cad 472 for the past 10 years. Never overheats. Even with the air on.

 

Aluminum radiators huh? I’d say just cool it. Hehe.

 

Mark, I would normally agree with you. The fabricated-tank styles just don't look right. But this one has OEM-appearing stamped tanks and painted will be nearly indistinguishable from a copper/brass one. Lifetime warranty too.
At a minimum of $730 to over $1200 for copper/brass depending on options, that's a bit tough to swallow...

 

I've been buying $100-200 aluminum radiators from ebay for most of my recent projects, they generally work pretty well.

I did spend a bunch for a new radiator for my Vette, it's also aluminum (as was the original!) but is better made than the cheap ones, and fit great, from a reputable company.

So...since it seems to be a car you're willing to spend money on to do it well, I think you're on the right path with the stamp tank black aluminum radiator.

 

@Crazy Steve if it's a tight fit between the engine and radiator look at the Hayden 2947, it's only like 2.8" tall. It's a heavy duty unit special made for mopars and fan clearance.

There is a lighter duty version too, Hayden 2765 which is for jaguar, also about 2.8" tall.

Might have to do some mod work on the bolt pattern.....

.....

 

This is a Bryce Thomas aluminum radiator in my pick up. Stamped tank, all welded construction, no glue. Not cheap but you get what you pay for.

 

Was on a budget and bought a Champion Radiator for my Merc and painted it black.No problems.

 

Material is irrelevant.

If it is properly sized for the application, and does not leak, the job is handled.

 

I put an aluminum radiator for a '69 Mustang with an FE in our son's '65 Ranch Wagon with an FE. It's got a stamped top as the original, fit the Galaxie core support perfectly and keeps the 352 cool. It was cheap, it works, and it looks original. I can't find anything not to like about them. All our cars have aluminum radiators, this one is the only one that has original looking tanks. They all work great.

 

I'm thinking that every vehicle that I have owned that was built in 1985 or later had an aluminum radiator and I never had an issue with the aluminum part it was always the plastic parts that crapped out. I never had a cooling issue due to the radiator on either.

That if fine if you are wealthy enough that forking out right at a thousand dollars for a radiator doesn't put a serious dent in your budget. All too many of us just can't justify spending that much and in this case that is only for a 3 row with a trans cooler. The four row running 963 and the plain jane standard with no cooler running 809.83

As for myself I'll have to stumble along with my 250 dollar aluminum radiator with stamped tanks that I can paint black to hid it's identity.

 

I had the radiator in my '51 re-cored in 1988 when it didn't cool as well as it should have, The last year or so, it has developed a slight leak, which I could always stop with an appropriate product. I hesitated pulling it out for repair, because I can't find any place that does that anymore. This year when I get back, I'll pull it and look it over. If I think I can fix it myself, I'll try, but if it looks shaky, I'm going to get an aluminum replacement. I had been pondering this, but the thread has convinced me it's the way to go.

 

I like em
erythimg I own has em
Never an issue.

 

I prefer copper/brass but they have really gotten expensive, When I had my accident back in October I trashed my Walker radiator, Recently I had a local radiator shop recore the Walker, it wasn't cheap but that's what I wanted.

I know sooner or later I will have to bite the bullet and buy another aluminum radiator ( I have already owned a Griffin aluminum radiator and it was junk) but again I am not a fan of aluminum radiators nor electric fans, but that's just me. HRP

 

The cheapo on- line aluminum radiator that I painted black ( gasp! Probably ruined the cooling abilities!) Has been excellent for 6 years in the roadster. Mostly used as a racecar 1/8th mile and hill climb a few times a year and has yettooverheat withastockfan. I plan on buying cheap, aluminum, tons of hate online, radiators for my upcoming builds

 

2.8 inches tall I think you will have a problem with cooling.

 

I have a 4 core aluminum radiator in my olds, cold well. Got it from summit for a few hundred, for like a charm, cools well.
I get what @Moriarity is saying, I have seen aluminum radiators in hood less hot rods that look like ass. Paint em, put a shroud on em, no one needs to know.

 

Don’t get hung up on “row” number.

it’s core design.

mine has 2 flues. Cools 500 inch engine in a 7k vehicle better than the 4 flue copper did. The 2 flu aluminum has a wider core than the 4 flu copper

 

As long as they have tig welded seams , and you paint “em” black , there good to run !!!

 

Aluminum radiator in my my coupe, painted black. Cools a full race , blown SBC , even on the street, no problems.

 

I prefer copper/ brass so that is what I installed in the last two builds. The Cyclone has a U.S. Radiator from a big block Mercury (pony car) it cools without issue. I run a large OEM fan and shroud along with a high flow Robert Shaw thermostat. Money well spent especially last September when I waited in line to enter the Triple Crown event and watched a few cars off to the side with their hoods up and heat waves radiating from the engine.

 

Speaking of painting an aluminum radiator, is there a proper paint to spray on the fins?

 

Rattle can the front of the aluminum radiator black , cheap and done

 

Matt black paint....... but it is only really a cosmetic thing.
It only makes about a 1% difference to the heat-shedding capacity over other colors.
Apply in very light coats and let dry properly between each coat. You don't want to block up the air gaps with paint.

 

I have had Excellent luck with a rattle can of satin black..
Never an issue...

 

It all depends on what you are doing, are you building a 100 percent period correct, stay away from aluminum, if you are building a traditional ride but have a dual master cylinder , Petronix , disc brakes ?( that hopefully won’t be seen ) then I don’t see a problem, I have an aluminum radiator in my 40 Merc, but rattlecanned the front of it , it’s been on the road for over a year no one has said anything, but then again hamb police haven’t showed up yet

 

I recently put an Auto City Classics radiator in my wagon. It works ok but was twisted when it arrived.
I’m in Canada so return shipping made returning it unfeasible.

 

Forklift and heavy equipment is probably the last hold out for copper / brass repairable radiators . Replacements can also cost 1500 bucks and keep going from there !!

buying an aluminum rad for 1/2 or less is a great solution , they came out about 6-8 years ago , was hesitant at first , but now when repair is not an option we stuff one of them
In and not an issue .

only issue we run into at times is “ direct fit “ usually means the mounting holes and boses are close enough you can finagle it in place !

 

I repaired my aluminum radiator.
Super EZ