Technical Aluminum radiators.... what's the consensus?

Black paint dissipates heat a bit better than standard metal finish. That's why car manufacturers used to paint them black, nowadays it's not done as it adds 15cents to the final price. I have run aluminium radiators in my daily drivers (60's and 70's cars), and never a problem, as long as you run the green goop in the water.

 

I'm a*****er for Amazon and ebay aluminum radiators. I've probably bought 20 in the past 7 or 8 years. Never had an issue. Yeah the fabricated pieces look out of place, but there are decent reproductions out there, and some black high temp paint makes the aluminum disappear. I generally try to use the 2 core with 1" cores. And $125 doesn't hurt the wallet.

 

I read somewhere that Mick Jagger always uses an aluminum rad on his collector cars but of course he "paints them black"..... LOL

 

Literally looks identical to what the OP posted.

 

I built my core support around a parts store early Mustang brass radiator because my 327 ran cool with one in my other car. After doing ome work on the 327,(heads and cam), the cooling was marginal. In a slow cruise situation, it got to 240* and something had to be done. I bought an aluminum rad with 2 rows of 1" tubes from an Ebay seller. 1st thing I noticed was that it took about a 1/2 gal more to fill it than the old rad. A little bit bigger tanks were noticeble, but I think the tubes hold more coolant, too. Anyway, it runs very near the stat temp in the hottest temps now.

Gary

 

Rattle can black high temp paint, looks fine , no issues. I did 3 light coats.

 

I used an aluminum job in Papaw on Lloyd’s advice. @Lloyd's paint & glass, It came from Amazon, was $150, and it is really a beautiful piece. Maybe I should have painted it, but I was too excited to install it. The only issue I had was UPS sitting on it for a week in a facility 35 miles from my house before delivering it. Next time, I’ll have it shipped to work.

 

I see an aluminum radiator and I want it painted black. No colors anymore I want them to turn black.

 

Not entirely true. Aluminum has more strength, so the tubes can be larger. Larger tubes mean better flow and more surface area for heat transfer.

 

I think he covered that under "properly sized for the application".

 

They make 3 types of thermostatic fan clutches, regular, HD, and severe duty. If you can fit the severe duty in the space you have they work much better. Severe duty is the type that comes on 1 ton dually's and such. You don't want a centrifugal clutch type.

 

I have used both for many years in many builds. If the alum radiator has any mounting stresses, it will fail very soon. The copper has been more forgiving. On my most recent build, I purchased the cheapest alum on ebay and installed it. I didn't like the look of the welds as far as penetration so after using it for a few months, I bought a copper unit. It failed in 5000 miles. It had a tube split. I was very fortunate to get it warranted. I have the alum unit back in but I will put the copper unit back in. They are both 3 tube units. I haven't seen any difference in cooling capabilities. I have used both Griffith and Champions with success. The Champion is a nicer appearing of the lower cost alum units. As most of us are aware, the failure rate of new parts is considerable. Purchasing from a responsible source should be part of the equation.

 

Not really though. If material is irrelevant, then properly sized for the application would be the same rad, wouldn't it? If your rad is more efficient because of the material used, you can get away with less rad either in thickness (easier airflow through rad) or smaller dimensions.

So no, material is not irrelevant.

 

I guess if you want to be pedantic...but I think a properly sized radiator takes into account the material.

I personally haven't seen much difference in cooling capacity between copper and aluminum. I have seen a scarcity of copper radiators at most places that sell radiators, aside from the big bucks restoration places.

 

A thin coating of satin black cools more efficiently regardless of material used. I didn't say it the S.A.E. did. Your results may vary, tax****le extra, see your retailer for details, void where prohibited...

 

I usually stick with copper/brass, but could not find the size needed for my ‘49 Cad and went with an aluminum BeCool cross flow unit. Put an anode in the block and it has worked out quite well.

 

I want to thank all who replied to this thread. I remember when aluminum radiators first appeared with much hoopla but quality issues quickly followed and dogged them for a number of years. But given their now ubiquitous presence, something must be going right. The skyrocketing cost of 'traditional' copper-brass ones applied yet more pressure for their use. There's been minor idle chatter about aluminum radiators here over the years but that begged the question 'were these bought because of price only or do they really work'. As a guy who swears that the phrase 'Do it right or do it over' was invented personally for me, I'm gunshy about 'new things'. This has been answered to my satisfaction...

I'm pulling the trigger on the one I saw with confidence...

 

Wrong, black is the preferred color for cooling.
Ask the top fuel blown Hemi drag racers their preference.
Consider the gazillions of factory Radiators that did a fine job over the years.

 

Never have seen a top fuel blown hemi dragster with a radiator ??

 

I have aluminum radiators in all three of mine, and love them. I think black would be even better and not just for looks. If it's an all welded****embly I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. Nobody is going to look at it and know it's aluminum.

 

It's fully welded, another reason I liked it. My only (minor) complaint is it comes with a built-in trans cooler which I don't need with a manual. I'll just plug the holes and move on.

 

Don't quit your day job, because I don't think Second City will be calling you very soon! LOL

 

For those that have switched to an aluminum radiator; what type of antifreeze do you use, the old IAT or OAT? Seems like with the aluminum OAT would be best.

 

I'd run a magnesium sacrificial anode (from an RV water heater) to protect the aluminum.

 

A plain old marine pencil zinc will do the job, and they're cheap.

 

I use antifreeze, distilled water and Water Wetter in all my cars. Not for cooling purposes but they advertise that it helps avoid corrosion and electrolysis. I can't answer to that, but it is cheap insurance. The radiator I bought from summit came with a sacrificial anode and a threaded bung in welded in to accept it. Must be something to that.

 

Not as well. Check the Galvanic Table, and if you have any knowledge of chemistry, you will see why.

The magnesium anodes are not that expensive either.

 

When I built my 51 I bought the radiator first at a swap meet in St Louis that was a side tank fabbed 3 core that was built by a radiator shop in MO that was never picked up by the customer and I got it for cheap, $175 or thereabouts. I was running various 347’s all with a 600 shot and the car never overheated even when spraying the house down. I drove the car all summer with the a/c on in traffic and didn’t know that my electric fan was dead and it never got over 185*. So I am sold on aluminum radiators and since most of my cars are modified looking at the color of aluminum doesn’t bother me

 

I bought my Ron Davis aluminum radiator before Amazon was a glint in Jeff Bezos' eye.
They are higher quality so of course they will cost more, you won't find them at Walmart.

 

You want mag anodes. The do well collecting the charge of dissimilar metals and antifreeze. Dexcool and similar coolants (like for new*****) can be the death of a good copper/brass radiator. It attacks the solder joints 1st, then starts on the core. Takes about a year, but it'll happen. A friend lost a $5,000 honeycomb radiator to Dex. Another had his Packard oil cooler core start to delaminate from using that waterless stuff, Evans, that was supposed to be the "messiah" of radiator coolants. Water in the oil*****s. Oil in the water almost worse. Just seems a good topic to bring this up in, not trying to be a buzz kill.