Technical Holley-edelbrock help

Maybe it was locked out and doesn't need either. We don't know...

 

I have. That's why I ask...
Why was the hose disconnected and the ports blocked? IDK
Where's the timing? IDK
Are the plugs fouled? IDK
Are the floats set correctly? IDK
Is the choke working and set correctly? IDK
What jets? IDK
What power valve? IDK
What cam? IDK
What pistons? IDK
What c/r? IDK
What size chamber in the heads? IDK
Compression check? IDK
Has anyone done a leak down? IDK
Are the valves OK? IDK

A little info goes a long ways to help figure it out.
Some of these things have a long history of why they're where they're at.
I'm not picking on anyone, but it's kind of hard to do diagnostics over the phone.
Until we have some info, everyone is guessing.
He admits he's a newby and that's OK.
You gotta start somewhere!
He probably should to get some help locally...
Any volunteers? It is a '32...

 

Thanks for everyone's help I'm gonna be looking into some of your suggestions been pretty busy at work long hrs last couple of days hopefully be able to do some more digging YouTube to try and figure on how to do some of these things Rome was not built in a day you gotta start somewhere and I'm not afraid to try as long as I don't blow up or burn the house down lol

 

To hook it up and see what?

If it's a stock, unmodified HEI (which I believe it is by the picture), that would automatically give it 20* vacuum advance at Idle when hooked up. That's assuming the vacuum diaphragm isn't broken... and it was connected to a full manifold vacuum source.

Of course, if it was connected to the ported vacuum source, it wouldn't give it advance until the throttle blade was opened past the transfer slots, and then it would add advance. The factory set it up that way to pass EPA idle emissions tests, thus mandating only a 6* initial timing. Remember that from the gas crunch era of the mid-70's?

Of course, all of us "hot rodders" know that more initial ignition advance gives better throttle response, more power and better gas mileage, at the expense of oxides of nitrogen, which is supposed to be bad for the environment (yeah right).

What if this set up (with their choice of cam, heads, carb, etc.) wants (let's say) 12* initial, 14* mechanical and only 10* vacuum adv. because of cam, compression, cylinder heads, fuel quality, etc.?

To make this puppy run right, it would require a fully adjustable electronic distributor, (and know how to adjust it), which could cost upwards of 1000 bucks, maybe more. Maybe the guy that assembled this combination got cold feet and decided to sell the project as is, and WAHLA!, "Let's just put that old HEI in 'er and sell it..."

To make it run "good enough", it would mean setting the stock HEI at about 12*-15* initial advance, plus the 20* mechanical advance built in from the factory and unplug the vacuum advance... but it may have an off idle flat spot... especially if he doesn't know how to adjust the jetting in the carb to match. This is why a lot of these sort-of-cool projects get a bad track record.

Maybe that's why somebody left the vacuum advance unplugged. IDK Just guessing...
But any way, back to the subject at hand: Holley or Edelbrock Help!

Nicholas, I believe it's neither Holley nor Edelbrock... It's a combination of ignition timing and fuel requirements with this set-up. Roll up your sleeves and get into it, it's not that hard. You can do it!

 

So, the old adage that 83% of carburetor problems are actually just ignition problems could apply here….

 

I didn't know there was a percentage, but I will say they are intricately tied together. Think of the entire engine combination as a system. Everything has to work together in terms of performance.

 

I mean no disrespect, but if you are truly at the bottom of the learning curve as it appears, trying this and that randomly is as likely to make things worse as better and may do actual damage. Your best bet at this point would be ,as previously mentioned, to take it to an expert who can evaluate the situation, explain what he or she is doing, and set you on the path to understanding it yourself so you're not just grabbing at straws. Many of us learned the hard way which can be expensive and disheartening; give your self a break so you can enjoy your car.

 

The choke heat tube isn’t hooked up either, I’d hook it up along with the vacuum advance and see how it runs.
Looks to me some money was spent on the engine, guessing it has a performance cam and depending on what cam etc. more than likely it will idle rough. A vacuum check at idle will tell a few tales.
Dan

 

The vacuum for the heat tube may be blocked as with an electric choke heater , it's not needed .

 

I know it's been awhile but I think I got it pretty well tuned in now hooked up a vacuum Line and also tweaked the distributor a very little bit and adjust the idle some seems like it has helped a bunch now if we start getting some better weather I might be able to enjoy it a little

 

My Olds and my flathead still have vacuum advance units on the distributors but no vacuum lines feeding them. Been that way since they were born (to me).

 

Curious as to why.

 

Without hijacking the thread. I don't have a great answer for you. They were both tuned by different people, different shops, both drastically different engines (one 471 blown flathead, one Mondello 455 Olds) and a ton of weight (easily) separating them.

The were both dyno tuned and this is the mix they came up with. I can't complain, the cars are very, very good at what they do. I will add that while the Olds rolls out a nice eco friendly 8 MPG, the flathead last Saturday did 12.5 MPG on a 120 mile trip through the Portland Metroplex. That surprised me.

 

I’m just a dumb stupid Hillbilly, with an opinion . The vacuum advance is your best friend on a street driven engine . Just think how many millions could have been saved by the OEM , if it was not needed . Mr. Billy , I don’t know anything about your flathead but an OEM later flathead had no ignition advance other than vacuum advance if I remember correctly .
That low RPM vacuum advance does wonders for drivability , cooling , hot starting . I think the same as Mark , it’s a minute of time to try it , I’m beating if the diaphragm is good he is going to see a major difference . Over carb., is a street engines worst enemy also .
I just had a guy , stop by with a Mecum purchase . 69 DZ302 Z28 ,GM Cross Ram intake with 2 , 600 cfm center squirter Holley carbs ., with 1 to 1 linkage. Hated to pass on to him that his purchase will never be drivable as it is in this state of build . I suspect it has 4 blown power valves , washing out the engine on hot starts , constant fowling spark plugs and one big sick owner , at this time .

 

Works for me...