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Technical Spring behind front axle bones mount options

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by panhead_pete, Apr 3, 2025.

  1. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,681

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Knowing there are a lot of ways to skin a cat Ive been trying to find the best/safest way to mount a spring behind the axle to split bones. To that end Ive collected these eaxmples from the many threads on here and elsewhere. Thanks also to the members Ive sent PMs to have provided input. Im still not 100 percent sure which way to go but have a bit of time as I collect parts.

    There seems to be 3 main types of mounts, brackets, perches through the bones and perch mounts welded onto the bones but one commonality I hadnt considered was that any of the ways need to account for the angle of the bones relative to the spring as it wont be inline with the spring.

    Thanks to all whose photos I have used, been doing a bit of copy/save.

    1. Brackets welded to the wishbone. Can be one or two. I notice RJays sells brackets but as has been pointed out his website clearly states those are for mock up.

    670026-motor mount 019.jpg

    CLAYANDALIISHA085.jpg

    DSCN2004.jpg

    2. Then there are options for perches bolted through the bones. Some appear to be through the solid part of the front of the bone. On 1st pass that seems like a good idea?

    mattrat31 front perch.jpg


    S4010940.jpg

    Frame6.jpg

    OmahaWOW2009157.jpg

    Another variation on that theme is on the outside of the bones although not sure how that works both functionally and aesthetically.

    shocks 2 hamb.jpg

    With perch pins through the bones Ive seen images of that including a sleeve. Im pretty sure Gary from Cornhusker @krylon32 made these sleeves with the taper to match an OEM perch pin. Seems like a very good idea.

    Gary Tapered Bung for Perches.jpg

    Gary Tapered Bung for Perches 2.jpg

    Then there is another option where the actual perch is welded to the bones.
    P2010008.jpg

    P2010002.jpg

    Not all done well. Whilst it looks like these have been pie cut it sure looks sketchy.

    sketchy weld.jpg

    The fourth way involves using bat wings and hairpins which is not really what Im after as focussed on split bones but will include here to be somewhat comprehensive.
    paj-1248a-c_xl.jpg

    axlebracket2.jpg

    I know this isnt a full comprehensive list of all the ways to do that so feel free to add other examples please.

    Also very interested on everyones view on the best way to approach this. My initial feeling is a sleeve with tapered end to suit a OEM perch pin welded into the bones then welding the perch pin to that at both ends, trimming the excess but very much open to input. Thanks.

    Please ignore the small pic below, its for a shock mount I think.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 3, 2025
    Just Gary and brading like this.
  2. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,464

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Keeping the taper and pulling it tight into the taper in the wishbone bung is what gives it it's strength. I've heard of guys machining off the taper but that creates a shear point that is prone to break. I also never weld the perch solid to the wishbone. After it takes a set and is aligned with the spring we use a slotted nut tighten the perch tight and pin it with a cotter key. I did a bones style chassis for my friend Dennis Saum and his deuce 3 window and he has over 50K hard road miles on it with no problems.. One other thing the less shackle angle you have the better it is for the bones. On the spring behind the axle setup I like the shackles to hang almost straight down which takes most of the side thrust off the bones. Spring still works as it was intended. Check hopupmagazine.com and scroll down to Dennis Saum Out Takes to see the finished product. Gary at Cornhusker Rod And Custom
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2025
    High test 63, Just Gary, Tim and 2 others like this.
  3. Used Model A perch bolts welded into the bones a couple times. You do have to figure out the rear mount on the bones first so you can drill the 11/16" holes for the perch bolts at the right angle. Need a custom width spring too unless you are using a '37-'41 axle in which case a Model A spring will fit.
     
    Speccie and panhead_pete like this.
  4. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,804

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I like garys @krylon32 tapered crush tube idea.
    The double bracket one looks very solid , while the sketchy one looks like you will be in the dirt in no time. !!! I don’t think hanging off the batwing is a great idea with the forces involved and the twisting action on the bat wing, IMG_0166.jpeg IMG_0167.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2025
  5. I've built several spring behind set-ups with hairpins and the spring mounted to batwings I made from Ford axle yokes.

    Never found a problem with them.

    The batwings in the picture were fresh out of my jig and not finish welded.

    4IMG_20190104_125702 (Medium).jpg

    P4210026 (Medium).jpeg
     
    Just Gary and panhead_pete like this.
  6. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,681

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks all, my intent here was to try and gather all the options in one thread as there is a lot of great info spread across many many threads.
     

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