Lets see your car hauler/ flat bed trailer

Ok??

 

I share the feeling that we should drive our toys whenever possible, but there are lots of times that we need to haul it somewhere to get work done or pick up parts or another project or any number of other reasons.
I do find it interesting that many of those that say they would never have a trailer are the same ones that ask to borrow mine when they need one. Which, by the way, is never going to happen. The last time I loaned my trailer out, I had to go get it because the guy kept "forgetting" to bring it back. He had also hit a tree with it. Never again.

 

10,000 lb Beaver tail with slide out ramps, removable 8000lb winch, tool box for a battery and strap storage, removable fenders. I need to install a removable spare tire rack somewhere yet. I also opted for the adjustable tongue height option.
Dan

 

My trailers aren't fancy. I haul everything with them. I don't haul my running cars.

 

Mine is an 18' EXISS 7500 GVW aluminum on torsion axles. It has pull out ramps and a very minimal rear ramp. The left fender is removable and I also added a 1 ton HF winch for pulling on a load.

 

Purchased this 2004 trailer used in 2014, welded on a receiver on the front to accept a detachable 8000 lb winch, later added the raised toolbox and pit bike front wheel chock.
Did all new wheel bearings and brakes last year, always lost a lot of trim rings because rally wheels flex and spit rings off during the tandem axle turns, so going to put the original white painted wheels back on with new tires.
Picture is when it was loaded up, leaving for the 200+ mile pull to the Melt Down Drags in 2018

 

This is a great example of why some of us plan on trailering our cars to some events even though they are capable of driving there under their own power. It is very rarely the getting to a performance event that is the problem. But if you take your car and race to win, there is always the chance that something breaks. It is something to factor in when deciding to attend events outside of the reasonable recovery range if something breaks. Since drag and drive events allow two in the vehicle, I plan to drive to the event and have the second person drive the truck and trailer. Breaking the car 600 miles from home and then having to arrange recovery or pay shop rates to repair it, could eliminate the cruise budget for the rest of the year and then some. With any racing or performance event things break. It is inevitable. That being the case, there is no excuse for not having at least some sort of a plan on what to do if the inevitable happens to you.

 

Road runner boat trailer and tool box

 

The rusty old drag trailer has been on life support since I "saved" it. New axles, tires, paint and hardware. All this bolt on stuff is ok, but the carcass is bad. See how the beaver tail is ready to fall off. Selling it cheap as soon as I get my enclosed one, this spring I hope

 

....He's telling the truth.

 

The day I bought my 56.

Still have the trailer, wish I still had the dually...

 

The trailer I use for hauling projects back from the western states. It's 34' bed, 63" Peterbilt walk in semi sleeper, headache rack, a 12K winch and a 5K electric tongue jack. I've also built a removable stacking system so if I hauling roadster bodies or truck beds I can stack them. I have a system that allows me to carry 2 Model A frames laying on their side behind the fenders on each side and still able to drive a car between them. It has an abundances of D ring tiedown's 76 total https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/500858562718127

 

That trailer weighs more than the cargo.

 

^^ As always keyboard experts^^

 

You do realize nobody has said what their trailer weighs. Car trailers are rated by weight capacity not how much they weigh.

 

Y'all are getting might defensive. I didn't say it wasn't a fine setup, just that it was pretty heavy for the cargo pictured.

 

This cargo weighed more than the trailer

 

That sleeper cab on the front is a brilliant idea.
Especially for racers who can take all their tools with them .A tool shed and a rock guard together

[I'd adopt that idea in a heartbeat except I have an unusual trailer storage situation]

 

It's not a tool shed, but it is a great rock guard. It's my living quarters when I'm on the road, no motel bills for me that way. This is the second trailer I've had a sleeper on

 

I built this one [and copyrighted the design]
It weighed 480kg [1056 lbs] on a certified weighbridge.

Most Utes and SW's here have a factory tow rating of 2200kg [4840 lbs] so this would allow a 3784 lb payload when towed behind a Falcon / Commodore SW [or Ute]

 

Here’s a picture of a trailer we use on the farm and haul everything with it . Built extra long ramps . Put 3” spacers between the wheels and hubs so the Hough 30 loader will fit between the wheels. The fenders are held on with 2 bolts . That’s so we can take them off to load the Hough and tree saw . After equipment is loaded the fenders are easily put back on for traveling done the road . Mounted a receiver hitch on the front of the trailer to mount the winch off and on when needed .

 

Here’s the winch in the cradle I made for it .

 

Mine is a 18ft with 3500 lb axles and 8.5 wide, it tows great and gets the job done, I moved the side load ramps to the back as slide outs.
If I had to buy a new one I'd get a tilt, even with the beaver tail it's hard to load a low vehicle on it.

 

A lot of you guys have Been There And Done That! My wife and kids run for cover when asked to help load my trailer. I've got a damaged bed side on my tow vehicle and damaged door on the Studebaker from over estimating what a "helper" is capable of.
Rod St.Race laid out a lot of important stuff. Towing is a lot of responsibility. Nobody wants to be broke down on the side of the road, but heeding some of these little tips can sure prevent a lot of pain.
My 2 biggest tips: 1 Slow down! don't tow at 80 MPH!
2 Spend more on tires than you want to, and do it more frequently than you'd like!

 

A wise man once told me :
A Friend owns a pickup.
A very good Friend owns a pickup and trailer

 

That's the problem with short beavertails. Look at post 44 and how long the beavertail is on mine. An earlier trailer had a beavertail like yours and it was sometimes hell to load a car because of it. I've never had a problem with this trailer

 

That's some overhang, if my ramps were twice as long it'd probably be easier. The last time I towed my 41 pickup I had to remove the front clip to get up the ramps and that was with jacking the trailer tongue up.

 

You can unhook and raise the tounge if you have some bocks for the beck of the trailer. If you use jacks to hold up the back of the trailer, you could also raise the back of the ramps when the car gets close to high centering.
Warning don’t unhook the trailer and then move the jacks. This could have very bad effects. It should be either or.