Technical Ford FE filter housings for Chrysler Hemi's

I saw a loose FE housing laying in a scrap yard and thought it might work on my hemi. A sandwiched aluminum plate and some modified bolts and it worked
The studs need to be offset and 3/8 on one ending 5/16 on the other. The plate is 1/2"
I like it because it uses the big Ford filter in my Ford. It angles the filter straight back out of the way.
You put the block gasket in place and screw the studs in. Slip the outer gasket on and the housing and bolt it up.
I ground the bolts down and rethreaded the ends. I got the offset by spacing the ends out and heating and squeezing in the vice. They are all the same.
No mods to the housing or the engine.

 

NEVER seen anyone do that offset-wow!

 

Hmmm....

I wonder if there would be a market for a sandwiched adapter plate.

 

There might be. I like it a lot better than anything offered.

 

I'd be afraid that those already compromised bolts might break under long-term continuous vibration. On the hemi in my race car, I used the 1/2" aluminum plate as an adapter for a remote oil filter (drill 6 holes, tap 2 for 1/2" pipe) and ran dual remote filters. The "old-timers" in my race club said that "them hemi's need lots of oil". By the time I got done modifying the pan, adding dual filters, and installing an oil cooler, it took 14 quarts. The only problem I had was warming the engine up for 15 minutes before the first race.

 

Now that's some period correct hot rodding right there! Well done, Andy.

 

The bolts have proven to be just fine. The car has been on the road since 1990. This is the only filter and bolts ever on it.
They sure would be under more stress in a race car and not in a smooth running street car.

 

I'm sure your real life experience says more than my mere speculation. Those bolts sure do seem "tortured", though.

And you're right about the racing, especially on dirt tracks out in the "boonies".

 

The "only filter" that has been on it since 1990??
You have not changed the oil filter since 1990?

 

If someone wanted to produce this without the tweaked studs ( which I consider a brilliant solution for a one-off) it could simply be offset a short distance and use separate fasteners for the block and filter housing, being careful that the passages connect.

 

I am a cheap bastard. It has always looked OK to me. Why change?

 

I guess no reason, unless you've been driving it on a regular basis. If I may ask, how many miles would that be?

 

I drive Harleys those studs will out last us . Not near the vibes as a Knuckle and never broke an oil pump stud on one of them yet

 

I'll bet the Harley studs were specifically designed and produced for this purpose, not ordinary bolts mangled in a vice.

 

Crickets.

 

The poor old car has a ton of miles on it. I was doing maybe 15K a year when it was fresh. LARS, Hot Rod Reunion, Bonniville, Pleaenton, Peoria, Memphis, El Mirage, Ok City, many more.
El Mirage was the craziest. You can’t go out on the dirt single file. You have to go line abrest so you can see for the dirt kicked up. Bonniville was the nastiest. The car was completely white from the salt. Thankfully it rained all the way home. The road down into Death Valley was the most fun. Lots of switchbacks with straights in between. I have driven it 900 miles none stop a dozen or more times coming back from LA.
I am on my third speedometer. Newest one is at 42K.
It has been a fun reliable car. Never on a trailer.

 

All that and you have not changed the oil filter? I believe I'm sensing some BS going on, just wondering where the truth line is. When part of the story is BS, how are we suppose to believe the rest of the story?
If you really have the original oil filter on the motor that was there in 1990, "being cheap" isn't what I would call it.

 

I ment to say the filtering system is the same one as when I built it. I am a fanatic on changing oil and filters. I give it a good grease job at every oil change. It is very well maintained.

 

He never said he never changed the oil? I think he means he doesn't have to take the filter housing on and off.

 

I wonder if it may be easier/cleaner to plug the existing holes in the filter mount then re-drill to the Chrysler pattern. It looks like a few may be close to the oil passages; a sleeve should fix that. A additional space-gaining measure would be to reduce the threads in the block down to 1/4" then use grade 8 bolts. You don't have the heavy steel filter cartridge hanging off it anymore, should be more than adequate. That should eliminate the intermediate plate altogether.

 

Per engineering handbook. Tensile strength of a 5/16-16 bolt is 6600 lbs. Even at half strength they
would still be sufficient.
Piper J-3 cubs used a single 5/16 to attach the wing struts. They were in double sheer though.

 

Jesus some of you guys need to find a hobby beside trying to jump on everything you can make up. Wonder why people don't post here.

 

I thought a 5/16 was an 18 threads per inch....

 

You are right. My bad.

 

I have been following your build and have to ask this : Would you run that oil filter "adapter" on your engine?

 

Yup. I have cut-and-pasted directly from white papers, work orders, and GM memorandum, and have been immediately told that I have no idea what I am talking about.

No loyalty like the loyal opposition.

I think Voltaire said it best: "The more often a stupidity is repeated, the more it gets the appearance of wisdom."

 

Concur........But I like those who don't have such that are an expert on everything ,or, better yet and have to chime in on what's right/wrong........spend someone else's money, or just talk outta their ass...... Attn you'se= back your stuff up, or STFU!

 

Yes I would

 

I was more referring to everyone that decided on their own that he had never changed the filter