Technical 218 Plymouth acceptable compression?

It is a D6H2. I was studying it last night. The car is fairly correct but I just want to drive it. That all explains why a rebuilt B&B is in the neighborhood of $800. Never realized that the B&B was made for Chrysler under Chrysler design. I guess the tag that says manufactured for Chrysler corporation kind of explains it.

Am I correct that the WA1 413 would be for a 235 originally?

 

It has been mentioned before but, I suggest that you check in with the crew at www.p15-d24.com. One of the guys might have a carb...
I do know that a couple of them have swapped a later progressive 2-bbl onto the L-head engines, but I don't know the details.

 

The 413s is a universal replacement carb, with a manual choke; never original equipment.

If you want a spec sheet on the D6H2, send me your email.

Jon

 

Thank you! I had a feeling that he was going down a frustrating path, that confirms it.
Sorry if I was mistaken about the carb being rare.

 

My email is mattdudley13@gmail


I was just thinking I could get it safe enough to take it to the turnaround a few times and back which is a mile from my house. I plan on carb replacement.

oddly enough there is very little on the p15 site other than to keep the B&B and the Weber conversion

 

I found this https://borthautoparts.com/parts-pr...carter-carburetor-no-wa-1-tag-413s-universal/ but does the S matter? I know they are a legit place. My spare distributor came from them. NOS probably still needs gone through

 

As for cold static compression, and there are enumerable variables (cam design, restrictions, heat, etc.), with plugs out, throttle full open, perfect seal should roughly be atmospheric pressure (14.7psi at sea level, give or take weather conditions/altitude, etc.) times compression ratio.

For example: 7:1 compression would be 7 x 14.7, or 102.9psi.

11.25:1 compression would be 11.25 x 14.7, or 165.375psi.

It is just a ballpark, but it puts pressures into rough perspective.

 

Matt - your specs are on the way.

As to the letter "S"; from my website:

"Carter numbering systems.

Three different types of numbering systems are found on Carter produced carburetors.

(1) On carburetors built for Chrysler Corporation, a series of 3, 4, or 5 letters and numbers; i.e. EV1 or D6H2.

(2) On carburetors built for Ford Motor Company, the “Ford” numbering system which is “lnll – l(l)(l)” or letter, number, letter, letter dash letter (possible letter) (possible letter) i.e C5VF-A. This system is codified in that the first letter is the decade (B=1950’s, C=1960’s, etc.); the number is the last digit in the year; the 3rd and 4th letters (before the dash) represent the vehicle model (VF=Lincoln); and the letter or letters after the dash are a modifier which distinguishes the exact application. Thus in the example C5VF-A, the carburetor would have been the first application for Lincoln in the year 1965.

(3) The traditional Carter numbering system which consisted of 1, 2, 3, or 4 digits; followed by the letter “S”, possibly followed by another letter. It is extremely doubtful that any of the single, double, or early triple digit tags will appear; as they were produced before 1930 and were constructed of red cardboard. The metal tag appeared about 1930 with tag numbers of about 300s. The 4 digit tag appeared in 1952, and was continued on until the end. The letter S and following letters, when present, have caused much speculation (mostly incorrect). In Carter’s terminology, an individual part such as an idle mixture screw was a single part; whereas two or more individual parts sold together such as a needle, seat, and gasket were sold as an “assembly”. Carter used the suffix letter S to denote assembly. Since all carburetors are composed of multiple parts, the letter S was appended to all carburetors using the traditional numbering system i.e. 938s. If a significant engineering change was made to the carburetor, the letter “A” would be appended to the S (i.e. 938sa). A second change would have the letter A replaced by the letter B (i.,e. 938sb). The highest engineering change of which I am aware is 4 i.e.938sd. Contrary to popular belief, the S DID NOT mean standard transmission, nor the SA automatic transmission."

Jon

 

Oh okay thanks much. That is what I thought.

 

What about a Zenith 228 copy, or Mikes N228/ Daytona UN2? Are they worthy?

 

Worthy of what?

Paperweight? - Yes, if clean
Door stop? - Yes, if dirty
Boat anchor? - Yes, if dirty or clean

All joking aside:

Where can you get a specification page, such as the Chrysler I sent to you?
Where can you get tuning parts?
Where can you get a rebuilding kit?

(Opinion) these imitation carburetors are a solution to a problem that doesn't exist!

Jon

 

Just thinking of a carb I could throw on quick for the year and it looks like the vac and fuel will hook up directly. I took today off as I have a funeral to go to later so I was doing some testing and looking. The car fired up on the first crank and the carb really isn’t leaking too bad. The top by the inlet stays kind of wet while running but it doesn’t go anywhere. I may be safe to run it around the block. I could use a pig mat as a diaper so to speak just to make sure. I will probably check the adjustments on the spec sheet and make sure it’s as close as it can be and give it a test.

when I was fighting ignition problems it seemed to run right down the side.

also revving it up I heard chuffing in the air cleaner so I’m now fairly sure intake valves are hanging causing the poor compression and running.

 

I didn't see, or missed, the results of your compression test. An easy, cheap, and pretty accurate way to determine if the cylinders all have equal compression is to just pull the coil wire and crank it over with no ignition. If the engine rotates with equal speed, plugs IN, you've got equal compression in all of 'em. If it "wheezes" or speeds by one (or more) then you've got problems. These old engines are very prone to have a stuck valve, the result of leaded fuel, rust, and carbon deposits on the valve stems. Pull the head and crank it over, if one or more of 'em don't move, sometimes you can tap them down with a hammer, soak 'em with penetrating oil and get them freed up. Burned valves or a cracked block (from cylinder wall to valve seat usually) don't lend themselves to a cheap, easy fix. Good luck, these are pretty good engines, right up to when they're not.

 

Cylinder 3 and 4 had zero compression when I checked and it does have a fast spot when cranking without ignition verifying that. It only seems to skip one cylinder so I think the dynamic compression comes up enough to make it run on 5.

my plan was to pull the head and see what’s up. Pretty sure I’ll find an issue with intake valves

 

Have you adjusted the valves? It sounds like you at least have some intake valves stuck, improperly adjusted, or leaking. You should also be able to see if any are stuck by pulling the lifter/valve cover off the side and doing a visual inspection. No need for a bore scope.

 

I haven’t yet since I just got the car into my garage. I gotta pull the front wheel and access panel. Was going to do that at the same time as pulling the head. Check conditions of the cylinders, head itself and valves. Also make it quick to set valves cold. If I find a problem with the head, I’ve got one on the other engine.


I’m thinking I may take it for the spin and put some heat in it to see if it wakes up. Previous owner told me it had set for 2 years or so

 

Adjacent cylinders with very low compression points to a blown head gasket.

 

Yup. Thats the other reason why I want to pull the head. I can verify and repair pretty much anything aside from burnt valves or a holed piston with the head off. I could probably replace burned valves if I needed to. Rock auto lists them as available and I bet Briggs and Stratton valve compressor and seat cutter will work in a pinch

 

My wife is going to register the car for me on Monday when she can get to the DMV since the one in my work town closed down.

after bore scoping the engine and seeing the valves are not stuck and look clean. It’s either broken rings or head gasket, with head gasket being more logical. But I’m going to take it down the road to get a little heat in the engine.

I’ve got to get the charging system working as it’s not and I’m up in the air about a 6v alternator or not. If it needs more than a regulator, restoring the generator to working condition will cost more, and more down time to get it working vs the alternator. But the alternator doesn’t look correct. Even though I intend to drive this car a bit.

 

I'd go with a 12v conversion...but do what you want....

 

I’ve thought about that but the 6v is working well other than the charging issue. At least for now I’ll hold off

 

I ordered a 40A one wire from the brillman company and then a conversion bracket from Vintage auto garage specific for the Mopar’s autolite generator spacing. We’ll see how it works.