I worked with a guy that was just like that with all of his cars. He lived in the country so most of the miles were highway miles but nevertheless never had any oil related issues
With any scientific study be it oil...medical or any other subject just remember to check to see who paid for the project.
Yeah, and you have to watch out and make sure that the lubrication companies are not spending their money on R&D to produce oil that is not suited for it's intended purpose.
I think he has given up. As he should nobody listens anyways. As Tubman said too many idiots arguing the science behind things these days.
I’m going to keep going with the non detergent and 20-50, if the shit breaks I’ll build me another one and keep on trucking
Me too. No other comments other than I will continue to use what I KNOW works no matter what the internet says. Just remember Boys and Girls, if they said it on the internet (or TV) it MUST BE TRUE!
Had a 240 6cyl the opposite of that. Kinda. Leaked and or burnt a quart a week. Added a quart every week, never changed it. Would swap out a filter once a year. Put a zillion miles on it. Would rotate the plugs around due to a couple fouler tips. Knock of the crud and put a plug from a good cyl in its place. good times
The beauty of an oil burner like that is you don’t have a used oil waste problem, ecological lol. A friend in HS had a car like that, pulled into service stations and checked gas level and topped off the oil often times didn’t need gas just oil. Dan
Your local Tribologist would have a shit fit with not changing oil and filters. During my working career we filtered hydraulic oil down to 5 microns at a minimum and sometime down to 1 micron IIRC on hydraulic oil. Our lifespan on valves, pumps and rams increased dramatically. Yes the engineers and technicians involved in producing our lubes know their stuff. @anthony myrick yes oil is good I personally use it, no oil is bad. On something wore out changing oil and filters may not matter much but on a fresh engine probably good insurance. My dad had an old Ford PU that started rattling and knocking and using oil so dad decided to add some 80w90 to slow down oil consumption. Sure enough oil consumption went down and ran a little quieter. He ran it like that for maybe 2 years. A mechanic friend tore down the engine and found a broken piston,new piston and rings and maybe bearings. Dad ran it for another few years. Dan
Hydraulics and engines are quite different things, when it comes to lubrication requirements. No combustion byproducts in a hydraulic system, no high precision spool valves working at kpsi in an engine....
Yes that is true, but on large industrial engines keeping the oil clean also increased engine life IIRC filtered 90 % efficient to 15 microns and 98% efficient to 25 microns and no screen or filter larger the 25 microns, we also did ISO counts on particles from 4 to 100 microns. The bottom line is the cleaner the oil the longer the engine will last. Also tested what the particles were iron, silica, etc. just oil flowing across metal can and does cause wear, the more and larger the particles in the oil are the more wear there will be. Dan
We have an OT unit sitting here that is rocking 500K miles , gas engine , oil and filter changed every 10k miles to the mile .Many times with a Fram filter . Full synthetic oil the weight specific to what is stated on the fill cap.
When I was in college ( did me no good ) I drove a 1964 VW to school to save gas money. 40hp engine with tuned exhaust. Found a Frantz oil filter at a swap meet put it on. Unfortunately it is a bypass filter so I had to add a high volume oil pump. No factory oil filter on a stock 40hp VW engine but the Frantz definitely made the oil cleaner and yes it actually got cleaner the more I drove. Must use the industrial commercial TP roles. Remove a few layers to cram it into the filter canister. But works. There was a joke where some college guys up Los Angeles way ran their 40hp VW on soybean oil. Waited for the engine to freeze up. Ran for all of their undergraduate years or close to 4 years and did not die. Go figure.
When the first internal combustion engines were invented, and for probably 40-50 years (?) afterward, oil did not have any ZDDP in it as well as many of the other ingredients used today. I wonder if there were people who refused to use the new oil because the non-ZDDP oil always worked just fine............
I've been running it for years as well. One of my local parts stores now stock Castrol Classic 20-50 (added zinc), so I run that now instead.
You guys, don't need mulit weight oil. Just use good old Bardahl Racing Oil and a can of STP Motor Honey. Worked great for Jalopy Derby Racing at Gardena Stadium / Ascot Park. How many of us are old enough to have watched Dick Lane as the announcer at the races ? "" Whoah Nellie "". A History of Aircraft Piston Engine Lubricants 810849 This paper is a review of the literature covering the history of the use of lubricants. The uses of oils derived from animals, vegetables and minerals are placed in perspective from ancient times to the Wright Brothers' flight in 1903. After that period, the discussion is confined largely to the lubrication of aircraft piston engines. The paper attempts to explain the preference for castor oil in European and British engines and the more general, but by no means exclusive, use of petroleum-based mineral oils in the United States. The British Air Ministry, in 1929, reached a decision to abandon castor oil due to availability and cost of petroleum-based oils. The simultaneous U.S. Army Air Corps recognition of the advantages of the very flat viscosity-temperature curve of Pennsylvania oils for hot running engines and for cold starting led to the world-wide use of these lubricating oils. The background for the continued, and often controversial use of straight mineral oil, some of the additives used, tests of synthetic oil in winter use, and oil reclamation are reviewed through World War II until 1963 when lubricating oils containing ash-less additives became the predominant products.
You mean you don't have any stores that carry Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil? It's still got a high zinc content and isn't much higher priced than regular oils. From Valvoline's site: "From drag strips to paved and dirt ovals, racing performance demands race-level protection. Which is why motorsport teams and enthusiasts depend on Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil, America’s #1 racing oil. Our exclusive high zinc and phosphorus formulamotor oil is engineered specifically for modern and classic high-performance engines both on and off the track, which includes flat-tappet and performance cam motors. It’s chemically designed to reduce internal friction and enhance power output, while protecting critical engine parts from wear under the extreme conditions of racing. While its high load carrying characteristics, minimum foaming under stress and maximum resistance to thermal degradation ensure stability and lubrication. Valvoline VR1 Racing Motor Oil is recommended for high-performance gasoline engines as well as those burning full or partial alcohol fuels. It is not recommended for vehicles with catalytic converters or in wet clutches. Go with the proven winner, Valvoline's VR1 Racing Oil." I use it in all my flat tappet engines whether they're old, or brand new rebuilds. It simply works and never had a flat tappet cam or lifter failure with it. Not sure why people don't know it's still high zinc motor oil?
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