Hot Rods Spray on heat/sound insulation

Bet there's lots of opinions on this one? I'm sick of the cost and application of Dynamat. Looking for the best/not the cheapest spray on interior insulation/sound deadener for my last deuce roadster.

 

I know a lot will mention Lizard Skin. I've used it a few times, it was ok, but fell short of my expectations. I'm sure there's something better out there that I don't know about.

 

Lizard skin isn't cheap by any stretch. I may have screwed up and won't know until Saturday but I ordered four 60x40 inch rolls of stick on insulation for my 48 from Temu because it was 15.58 a roll https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg..._1747337755126_27g4d8f66j&refer_page_sn=10045 For sure not for everyone but I thought I'd give it a try and see how it does.

My original plan was to use Lizard skin and then use Dynamat or another high rated insulation over that as I am tired of noise and heat inside the truck on long trips.

 

I have no experience with this stuff. But I've heard that lizard skin and similar stuff is very good at insulating heat, maybe not so great for sound.
But there are other spray-on products specifically made for sound insulation that I think might work better. Look at Boom Mat, etc.
So I thought maybe two applications.
I think @Mr48chev has the same idea.

 

Maybe we're helping you spend more of your money instead of less.
LOL
That's hot rodding, so it seems.

 

Trying to avoid the stick on insulation?

 

Lizard skin has two products one for heat and one for sound. https://lizardskin.com/

I've been tossing this insulation thing around for a while as most of our short trips are over 100 miles one way and we have a couple of trips that will total over 5 K by the time we get back home planned.

 

Why when I see a video of someone installing stick'em on glue Dynamat, do I think about getting a good deal on a old car that needs restoration work like some minor floor patch/weld work and sealed and painted, and previous bubba owner covered up interior rust and damage with Dynamat that now needs to be stripped off too, and it will be a nasty, nasty, horrible job removing that Dynamat?

 

I worked at a testing lab for insulation materials, and tested some stuff which is installed under corrugated steel sheet roofing. It is about 1/4" thick, with foil on both sides, and comes on a roll, no adhesive. Here it is called Kingspan, but I am pretty sure something similar is made/available in the U.S. I used the offcuts in a couple of cars, and it worked a treat. When I ran out of my stash, I would raid the bin when a big industrial shed was being put up, the builders would use dozens of rolls, and there were enough offcuts to do several cars. And at the best price too- free!

 

I used both the sound and heat Lizard Skin on the Comet unibody, we sprayed the inside from mid firewall to the trunk bulkhead, and the bottom of the car from the firewall to the rear bumper. I believe it made a big difference from when I drove the car with factory jute insulation. I also installed Hush Mat under the carpet and inside the doors, underside of the roof, and quarter panels to reduce the “tin” sound. The car is much quieter and cooler inside, zero header heat penetrates the p***enger area.

 

Lizard skin is basically latex paint with either gl*** (sound) or ceramic (heat) microspheres mixed in. You can buy the gl*** spheres on Amazon at Aircraft Spruce and probably a bunch of other places. Not sure about the ceramic ones.

 

Krylon, I have been using a 3-M sound deading product, part number 3M-08840. It comes in 19"x19" squares and come 10 to a pack. They are self adhesive and I used them on a Model A about 8 years ago and nothing has come loose as of yet. I haven't purchased it for a while but it was about $100 for the box, a lot cheaper than Dynamax.

 

Just my 2 cents. I Installed KillMatt in the coupe over the winter in precise fitting pieces, yea I made templates first. It made a huge difference. I did not want a spray on material because of the full roll cage. Kill Matt was way cheaper then Dynomat, at least what I paid.

 

My neighbor was in the spray urethane/foam insulation business for over 30 years. Sold product some big name manufacturers. I'll ask him next time I see him. I do know that when everyone was out of stock for the body cushions I needed for my Ranch Wagon I gave him a sample and he had a customer make up many more than I needed in less than a week.

 

I've seen a guy make some homebrew stuff using latex paint and the little spheres he got off amazon, pretty interesting and certainly cheaper than the name brand stuff.

 

Caveat emptor: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/thermal-insulation.1300158/

Basically the only thing that will stop sound is m***, though there are various ways to reduce sound reflection or echoing, by breaking it up into different directions.

 

Checked with my neighbor. He said any of the brush/spray on products that he is aware of won't be as effective as the stick/glue on foil backed products. That is what he used for the floor of his OT 'Cuda.

 

Not sprayin' but sayin'
Can't Say where to find It buuut, I once heard of a guy with an ad in a local paper wanting to sell some 'airplane' insulation.
I looked him up, did not spend a lot, got enough to line my van.
Stuff was 'bout 1 point 5 inch thick. Like a 36 wide inch roll
Made the place homier.

 

I have some exp. with store bought and homemade. As a sound deadener, they work . As for insulation, not so much. Years ago, one of the HAMB members did some temp testing on the panels with the liquid versus the bare metal. It made almost no difference in insulation qualities. My exp. with any sound mat has been that it has limited temp control so I use a layer of microcell insulation for that. Sound mat is unpleasant to work with because of the adhesive but does make lots of difference in sound control. My thought is that you could use liquid and a layer of insulation and be in pretty good shape. Without the insulation, I think you'll be disappointed.

 

That's how I did mine. Seems to work ok.

 

@VI Lonewolf , is that double foil with white foam in middle?

 

don't know if this is a common issue with V8 49 - 52 Chevrolets but on mine with Sanderson headers the dash and firewall would get hot even with the original firewall insulation pad. I used the Lizard Skin for 2 treasons, 1 I could spray it up under the dash and get 100% coverage, and most importantly at the swap meets Lizard Skin was there with an electric hot plate half painted with Lizard Skin and half bare. they drop an ice cube on the hot half and it sizzled away instantly while on the Lizard Skin side the ice cube just sat there looking at us..

 

Ceramic microspheres are common, and easy to buy.

 

One thing is for sure, anything is better then nothing.
Eliminating places where heat can stay and build up is very effective too.

The biggest issue is, after you put anything there, its going to be really hard to determine if something else would have been better then what you have used, on that vehicle, unless you strip it completely off and try a different product.

Personally, I like the stick on stuff better. I'm not a spray (or brush on) kind of guy, cut, peel the backing, and press in place is really simple, for my simple mind to navigate (simpler, but not necessarily easier, tight spaces make the stick on stuff a PITA to apply).

I'm going to suspect that uniform coverage without coverage gaps is probably going to have the best effect, then the thickness of the finished product will probably be the 2nd most effect thing.

That said, I suspect the spray on stuff probably is easier to have a no gap, uniform, coverage, then the stick on stuff would have (notice I said it was easier, not that full coverage with the stick on stuff can't be done). I'll also go out on a limb and say the spray on stuff is probably a thinner coating then the stick on stuff, after the 1st application. I would expect it would be easier to build the thickness of the spray on stuff with more applications, but is that cost effective?

Modern vehicles are using a spray on stuff on the inside, and a stick on material on the outside, in areas where heat tends to build up (firewall and near where the exhaust runs). Using both probably isn't the cheapest route, but it probably is the best solution.
Or I could be all wrong.

 

There are tons better heat rejection methods. But the lizard skin works like it should, just not stellar. If you did the coating on the floor and firewall, then put jute and carpet over it, it would be fine. Alone it's not great by itself. If you did the interior in it, I would put some heat shields under the body between the exhaust and the floor, these have the largest impact on floor transfer of heat. I have done this stuff with great outcomes. The stick-on stuff for the inside is ok, but this under floor fibergl*** adhesive backed foil stuff has been a god send for close exhaust etc.

 

saw an article in pcimag about a sound damping coating called QuietCoat

https://pabcogypsum.com/cms/resourc...y_QuietCoat_Upscale_Mixed-Use_AZ_Property.pdf

The mfg makes lots of acoustic damping products, not automotive related.

Damping/vibration attenuation graph looked good, decided to try it. Brushed it on the interior panels, did a few coats. Car not running yet so I cant claim success, anyway its another option for noise reduction.

 

I used NOICO sound deadener,,,same as Dynamat at fraction of the price…made in Russia. Great product, no odour.
Ive seen other off brands on Amazon as well.

 

Hello,

When we were building the interiors of vans with a folding bed, refrigerator, sink, closet and water tank, we used insulation as thick as we could get at the time. Early 1960s. it kept the paneling clean and the not sounding hollow. The interior roof was also lined. Why? The moisture from those inside in their sleeping bags breathing all night creates an abundance of wet that needs to go somewhere. If the steel roof is not insulated, the outside moisture anywhere will load up and create some inside.

One night, as we were sitting around inside of the van, someone noticed that there was a drop of water coming down from one of the wooden racks strung side to side on a ledge. The wood was wet as it was getting some moisture from the bare steel roof. Plus, we were still awake and sitting around talking creating more moisture. So, there was a drip that fell on the cross rack and now, it was dripping on my friend’s head.

At first, we thought it was funny. But then the whole roof inside had dew drops building up due to who and what was helping create it inside and the outside moisture. Not rain, but just evening shoreline moisture coating our cars and trucks.

Jnaki

My brother solved it by spray painting the whole inside of the roof and then gluing in about 1 inch thick cork boards that fit under the paneling. That in itself deadened the rain coming down on the bare metal roof skin and also absorbed any noise or moisture from the outside cold/wet surface roof. Back then, the cork board was not as flexible as the new Dynamat. But, we were able to cut it to fit small areas. When the whole inside was complete with the cork, the exposed areas were all covered with nice wood paneling. No more hollow sounds in the cave environment…

Our experiences with the older vans, made the inside of the later 327 powered 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery a solid sound. Which was good.


Note:

It is not an old car happening. In modern sailboats, a single sided fibergl*** hull and roof protects water incursion, as it is sealed up. But, if one sleeps inside of the hull compartment, moisture will build up on the inner skin of the sprayed on fibergl*** hull. If the sailboat has a double hull, it does not happen as it is hollow or insulated from the factory.

Despite the cost, the thicker Dynamat type of insulation is better than spray on anything. Unless the spray on is one of those expanding foam liquid to adhering to any surface. Then it has to be covered or sprayed inside of paneling vs the bare steel wall. If one does not like the shiny Dynamat version that everyone uses, there are alternatives without the shiny coverings. The sprays are just not as good as the additional
1-2 inches of solid insulation.

What do house hold insulation sheets use for warmth? There are many different types from thin sheets to 2 inch thick insulating material. They all work in their own ways, some more so than others. YRMV

 

The NOICO stuff is what I have used on my last 3 builds. The .080 thickness has the only thing in the roof of my 48 Plymouth for about the last 15 years (the car has no headliner). The coupe was the first one to get it. The roof has white paint on it, and the NOICO stuck on and rolled on tightly on the inside surfaces of the entire car body (except inside of the doors). You can feel the difference just getting into the car (windows open) on a hot sunny day. The car sits outside in the weather year around and there are no signs of it letting loose from any of the sheet metal.
I liked it then because it had no advertising name on it and was then available with black (or silver) foil. The other brands of the similar stuff was covered with the product name. I didn't know if I was ever going to cover it, so no advertising was appealing.

 

Sorry for late reply, yes maybe 3/16" thick. Can't remember where I got it but maybe 100 sq', 4' wide roll came in the mail. Super light which was one reason why I chose it.