Projects Prefect / Willys /Kadett/Thames Gasser Build.

Weather was great. And I took full advantage of it.
I got the front door panels done. I was pleased with the results. I left the large dies in because I wanted to stiffen them up so they don’t rattle.
I will however scotchbrite it down or even engine turn them. The passenger side is way too much. I clecoed them in. It would be worse than an oven at the track with that many windows.

 

Got two things done today. Made pattern for the back door panels AND finished the front engine cradle /plates( pattern) to put blown six into the Thames. Tom sold me the front part of his engine cradle and I used it as a block mock up.

 

Completed pass rear door panel. And managed to get the driver side rear door marked and drilled. Now just cut it out and bead roll.

 

Ok I guess I have all door panels finished other than DA work to knock off the shine. The more I think about the engine turning once you start you have to do everything or it looks half done. so for now it will be sanded and left alone.

 

Looking good

 

Thanks
I set the lines/beads at 18/12 and 6 from the bottom for all of the panels. They look pretty decent with the doors closed when you look inside from the opposite side.

 

Got the front plates for blown six to go into Thames. Should drop in exactly where the sbc was with no changes to the front anyway.

 

Passenger front door panel installed. I used scotchbrite to knock off the shine. Put the inside door handle/window regulator handles on also. Clean simple. And no rattles.
I test fitted the front plates to mount the blown six in the Thames using the front engine cradle plate that Tom Lowe sold me from 12 Bolt.
worked like a charm. And the front plates /wings and cradle will put it right in the center of the mounts for the sbc.

 

All inner door panels are installed.
No pics today. It was time to eat and Wes was Hungry. Lol

 

Inner panel pics.

 

Also got some critical measurements done on the Thames. The block (250 length ) is 28 1/4. The powerglide bellhousing to trans mount length is 16 5/16. So total is basically 44 1/2. And that means that the front engine plate to trans mount bolt hole distance is 44 1/2 give or take a 1/4. The center to outside of frame rail is 15. That means that I should have I inch of clearance on the blower case and front down bars.

 

Wes and I got a chance to finish the driver side floor pan on the Kadett. I am going to have to make it 2 piece though to install. I’ll weld in tabs / and drive and tap the top side of frame rail near the trans tunnel. This will also allow a bolt in trans tunnel. All of which will be a lot easier since Wes decided to ditch the tilt body. Easy to do. And will indeed make it a lot easier

 

Got the patterns done for the rear bulk head on the Prefect. Will wind up being 3 pieces. Only way to fit them with the back cage bars. I will use clamshells to fit around the tubes.

 

Ok got a little done today on the Kadett and the Prefect. All the cuts were made to the driver floor pan on the Kadett. And it fell in to place perfectly. Now drill and weld mounting tabs and move to wheel runs and inner panels. got the back driver side bulkhead panel cut and fitted and even built the clamshells to seal around the rear down bars for the cage. Will cleco in line up before it’s riveted in. I’ll mount both side panels and then the center panel last. Will also allow me to do the bead roll work to match the door panels. Other than wiring harness and fuel system this will finish all but installation of drive train.

 

Took the rest of that scrap sheet of aluminum and made the other two panels. I had to redo one of the beads. I’ll DA it to knock off the polish shine. You’ll never see it. And I couldn’t justify not using the piece due to a scratch or small ding or two.
if it were a customer or someone else’s yes. But this is a race car. Waste Not Want Not.
Had to be three pieces. No other way. Bead rolled the same distance and lines as I did in the door panels. I’ll have to make a bead on the bottom corner of the clam shells to over lap and seal up the rear down bars. I haven’t drilled or set yet. I’ll cleco it into place and the double check.

 

Better fitted and clecoed into place. Still have two small side panels. But it did well enough for some scrap I had around

 

Finally made a corner piece that I liked the way it looked in place. I like the look of it actually on the top side. Even though it was cut and measured to be on the bottom. I left an 1/8 gap so as to be able to remove the panels if need be. I will use gray seam sealer. Just have to drill out the rivets if I need to remove.

 

Got the door panels for the Kadett done today. The rivet holes literally line up in the factory door panel mounting holes. Will step form the edge before they go on for good. Beads are on 5 inch centers.

 

Looking Good
Keep up the good work

 

The other side /corner panel on Prefect done.
. I spent most of the day sharpening mower blades and weed killer in the edge of the drive way. ( 1/8 mile long)managed to kick this one out in about 15 min. lol.

 

Ok. Finished the rear bulkhead and installed for good. Installed the seal plates around the rear cage down bars. Will need to scotch bright everything so it’s same. Again I will seal the 1/8 inch gap with grey silicon and wish it well.
I thought it turned out well considering it’s all scrap. Some of the bead rolling isn’t perfect but it does what it was really for in the first place. Strength and no rattles. Remember this car was built to beat the snot out of it.

 

Also the seat isn’t installed yet. That will give a different look.

 

Got a little time over the weekend to check the Corvair Steering Box that I am going to put on the Thames. It’s super smooth and tight. I got the bolt out that was broken off ( top mounting bolt).
Made mounting plate template. Put studs in and used the old ball peen truck. Then bolted the pattern down to make sure it’s exact. I’ll use a piece of tubing to reinforce the top mount. Plate will be welded to inside of the frame and then drill and tap so the frame and plate anchor the studs. Loctite the studs and bolt it on. Will be like the steering on the Prefect. I have yet to make up my mind if I’ll mount the box in front of the axle or behind. I’ve done both just have to flip the arm front or rear. Depends on whether I want everything in back of the axle. Only thing holding up now is my WAK axle. I will convert to coil overs and it will also be a 4 inch drop axle.

 

WAK axle is on the way. Now if I can get my grandson to learn the fuel injection set up I'll be doing good.

 

What brand are the front wheels

 

Halibrand copies. ( super light )/Doug and I were discussing that the other day. I would say magnesium as well. Lighter than the aluminum Ansen sprints on my Prefect. And they are pretty light.
WAK axle came in today. Looks good and appears as I hoped. Gotta weld the batwings and coil over mounts. And then get all back together and under it.

 

I was just curious who made them as they have the correct look I’m after that sandcast look with no machine marks and by the way bill at wac axles builds the best axles definitely top notch

 

Gotcha.

 

Got a chance to mock up the WAC axle under the Thames. I think it’s going to do exactly what I want. Front wheels 3 inches in and lower front about 2. Bat wings and coil over mounts look like they will fall where they need to be

 

I wanna find the double flanged Saddles in a 3/16 thickness if I can. I can make them but these are pretty neat just only an 1/8 thick.
They do have 1/2 inch bolt bushings and I can weld another flange to it if I have to but it would be nice to find one that’s all ready done.
I could just use 3/16 tabs and make from scratch.
It will work out.