What OT crap are you working on

Hit a piece of broken truck leaf spring . It went up into the drive shaft . Busted the yoke at the transfer case and spit out the shaft at 60 mph . Lucky it didn’t damage anything else . I could not find the shaft . The piece of spring was laying there but , the shaft went to Mars I guess . Farmer will find it when mowing hay I suppose . Luckily no one hurt , and not on the bike ., One big bang and stick a fork in it done ! The old Power Wagon is one tough SOB but no match for this .

 

OT Power Wagon is blowin smoke again . Driveshaft, new joints and a new yoke installed .

 

It's never a proud moment when you have to beat on header tubes. But the ones on the El had a bad interference issue with the new heads. So bad my efforts with high temp sleeves on the boots were just burning through slower. A proper set will happen at some point. Careful marking, one had to be worked in the car because it just wasn't coming out. Had to unbolt and shift it to where I could get at it with my air chisel dimpler I made by cutting and rounding off a panel cutter.

 

learning how to use computers to make cars run...it's a whole new world

 

with 105,000 miles on my '98 Blazer it is past time it's first tune up. I don't like working on that one so I checked my local mechanic and was quoted over $700.00. ... he said you have to take the front wheels off to change the plugs through the wheel well. I'll probably put it off until it won't start. that's how I usually do things.

 

Many S10's in my past. I took a hole saw to the wheel well so I could access the plugs. Electrical knock out plugs closed 'em up when done.

 

thanks for the tip. my previous vehicle was a 93 GMC Sonoma with the gutless 2.8 V6. that one was easy like a normal car to get to the plugs.

 

And as promised Even though I don't think anybody cares I am pretty proud of my work here, This was definitely a labor intensive project. The late model long roof is all repaired minus the paint.
I used Rust-Oleum 2x coverage or whatever it's called then I sprayed Rust-Oleum clear over the top of it and it is good enough for an economy car that's worth nothing

 

It's a world I unfortunately occasionally have to deal with but I'm no fan of it.

 

NICE !.........(Did you know chrome-moly is supposed to be pre-heated before welding ?!)
PS...I doubt most people do it though.
6sally6

 

Door hinges 1966 KW w900a

 

I had planned on replacing the hinges . But I’m running out of time . I’ve got to get the grain header , combine and other stuff ready for wheat harvest. The hinge is riveted to the door . So I’m hoping with new machine screws I can adjust the door enough that it will shut better . One screw out of the 8 twisted off . I made a drill guide and clamped it in place. But the drill still walked a little bit.

 

Brother , those cabs take a beating . More vibrations than my stroked Knucklehead had . It’s amazing as much as they shake and rattle , you drive one everyday after day , you hear stuff a deaf person could not pick out . I wish I was near , I’d be there to help you out my friend .

 

If this truck could talk the stories it could tell I bet . It was once an over the road truck that has been stretched and had a grain bed put on it . I bought it 4 years ago. It had been setting for at least 5 years. I bought it in the middle of KS and drove it home . Has a 260 Cummins that has been turbocharged. 13 speed road ranger . First thing the water pump seal went out on the drive home . Got it rebuilt and a steel floor welded in the bed over the wood floor . Then I rewired it from the firewall to the lights . The hood rest pads were out of adjustment . The hood was setting on the cab . Fixed that right away. Added a/c and new wheels with used bus takeoff tires last year. It’s slow 50-55 mph but it’s been a great addition to the farm . Gets used 4 -5 weeks a year hauling grain . Thank you for the offer Dave .

 

CAMAROBIRD needs new skin

 

Young gun he’s got the HotRod bug!

 

you look pretty comfy, kicked back watching the action from your lawn chair

 

Yes sir he’s got to do it to learn and also gain confidence. Besides I’m tired lol.

 

Going gold.

 

Also had to do a transmission in a buddies car at the main shop.

 

I love the gold keep up the great work !

 

Started off back in March with this aborted yellow Morris dragster wannabe... Cut a ton of unknown front suspension out and removed a Toyota pickup truck rear axle. Located a couple of donor cars and finally got a front clip and floor set in for welding up. Haven't got a damn clue how this car and one of my donors was ever supposed to stop... neither one had any brakes set up. Got a ton of spare parts to work with now...

 

Dunno about where you're at Anthony, but regular cab-short beds are at a premium in these parts! You know, the trucks that nobody wanted, so they quit makin' 'em! Like to see the finished product!

 

And it’s a v8
I’ve got a very nice clean single cab SWB v8 truck I drive. 05 gmc Took 3-4 months to find it.
Wife asked why a regular cab
I said so I can drive it for free when I sell it.

 

My oldest did the same. Found one when working out of town. A beater for him, drove it a few years for free in the end.
Clean ones are really hard to come by up here...$$$

 

Just goofin' in the shop. The stuff I geek out on amazes even myself. I may have enough TT center caps. Made up a board to display some. Now I'm collecting ARE wheel weights to garnish it with. Check out how they're made with curvature to fit the wheels.

 

Any Briggs & Stratton flathead lovers around?
Parents 30yo B&S mower has been giving them fits.
Went through the normal servicing, which I'm fairly sure they've never done.
Oil like treacle, check.
Plug gap out of spec, check.
Air filter resembling a small furry mammal, check.

Purring like a ragged shit box once more, it died with a sputter, never to restart.
Diagnosed a bad coil.
New coil added much missing pep.
Ran with aplomb, til it didn't... F.

Checked valve clearance and the exhaust valve has none. Bust.

However one thing I can't figure out is the Exhaust lobe.
While rotating to find the base circle and check for proper lash the valve briefly opens and snaps closed a minute amount during the compression stroke. It makes a 'tic' which is audible during running.
Would like to pull the head and give the valve a little grinding to make work, but don't want to bother if the cam is coming apart.

There is the normal full Exhaust opening/closing before Intake opening/closing.
Is this suppose to happen on Flathead B&S mower engines?
Or have I discovered a unique 'feature'?

Sacrilege!
Neighbors Monte had the same treatment done. He was none to happy to find 'speed holes' in his inner fenders

Had a S10 with the 4.3, mid length headers too. Only plug I recall being a pita was the middle plug that was perfectly covered by the steering shaft. It was truly assholic. Rest were easy enough, as long as you don't mind working blind. But I used to do tuneups on the BILs 3rd and 4th gen F bods, learned a few new moves to getting to the P side plugs without fracturing a forearm.