10 second 1/4 for 10 grand?

Sounds like you're young and havent really experienced what a 10 second rip feels like. Find someone local with a 10 second street car and go for a ride with them. This will convince you real quick (like, in less than 10 seconds) if you really desire a 10 second car. Going that fast can really humble some people, and make them reevaluate their goals.

 

.... and while you're there, ask the guy to tell you honestly how much it cost to get into the 10's. It might surprise you.

 

First time in a fast car might just give you some butterflies in the ol stomach, then after about the 3rd pass it's all back to normal and you lose the feeling unfortunately lol
I anticipate that feeling again with my new combo in the Henry J, hell it's been 12 yrs since I've been down the track.

 

I feel ya, it's been almost 10 years for me and that was an 11.70 all motor, stick shift, drag radial pass in my old foxbody coupe. My F-100 will easily be double the horsepower of that car, so I anticipate similar ET's due to the weight and gearing differences. I also would rather be surprised by a faster than expected ET, than let down with a particular number in mind and it doesn't meet that goal.

Logan, that Corvette will run 10's easily with the Big Block and a healthy dose of nitrous. You'll just need to make sure everything else on the car can handle that kind of torture.

 

Will do, just wanna ask if theres any options for a more daily friendly rear end set up beside a solid axle?

 

Nope. You’ll break u joints, twist axle shafts and snap pinion gears if you keep the IRS. By the time you make the IRS strong enough to hold up you will have as much money into it as the engine that did the damage.

 

Okay, I'll start looking into the setups of some other 9-11 second vettes and see what I find out

 

There you go! I will mention that a lot of racers don't disclose every broken part and most won't total up costs. Even with a good program, expect breakage and money burning up.

 

Everything cool is expensive!

 

no, not everything cool is expensive. I built this car for $15k, it was pretty cool

 

Yeah well you also seem like the resident master builder

 

And that's how the $10k mark comes and goes. You either spend it making everything strong enough to be trouble-free, or you eat it up quickly by constantly fixing things that break.

The secret is to be able to do most of the work yourself, and to count your labour/time as free, like @squirrel does.

 

That's the plan, I'll be checking on here everyday and update on anything I've done or found out

 

HA........never noticed the Schlitz over flow can !
Classy......!
6sally6
I had a Colt 45 can.....

 

I believe it would be hard to go 10s for less than 15 to 20k if you didn’t have the talent for horse trading, bartering and doing your own work, I think you would need some dumb luck also.

 

Well I'll keep everyone updated on my costs and progress

 

I didn't have that much into my Henry J, and it went 7.0's which is like an 11.0, with the pump gas tunnel ram 383 sbc. On paper it should've went 6.90's, but that's why we don’t race on paper.

 

I don't think so, there are a whole bunch of really good builders here. It's more a matter of figuring out what the requirements are for the car, and how to meet those requirements with the least cost. Basically, it's called "engineering". Yeah, I went to engineering school, but I also did my first big block engine swap while I was in high school, mostly using info from reading magazines (there was no youtube in the 1970s, you know)

Most guys get into the habit of thinking that the only way to get go-fast parts is to buy the stuff that everyone else buys. There usually are a lot of different ways to do things. Just gotta be creative, and do some research.

But learning to make stuff, or make other stuff work, is an acquired skill. And it's acquired by doing, not watching.

 

If you’re just starting out I would recommend setting your goals more realistic say low 13 high 12 second ETs and then start running your car making changes to improve your ET. You will gain valuable experience and knowledge about modifying your car and running on the track. After you learn how to dial your setup and your self then you can reevaluate your setup and determine what it will take to make your goal of running tens with the same vehicle. You can look for a vehicle with less weight and maybe is even setup to run the numbers you want or quicker. And I can’t say that I have ever met a drag racer who didn’t want to run faster. Sometimes you can find a race car for sale without the engine/transmission for a hell of a deal and transplant your current power train or start fresh getting to the ten second quarters much easier.

 

How many $$$ are you in already? What did you pay for your 'vette? How much of the $10k do you have left?

 

@squirrel you are too modest. ABone knocks out model 40s at a fast clip, Marty Strode builds beautiful stuff, but I think you are the most prolific street/strip builder on here. Chevy II, the cuda AWB, the vette, and now the Jeep. I didn't include the Checker because it was street. Who else has 4 in that time?

 

And you didn't include my old truck or my 55 chevy, where I learned most of the stuff I know but they go back a long time. I'm pretty slow at getting going (with the usual excuses of having work/family to deal with a lot back then).

I've seen a lot of neat cars on the hamb, there are definitely a lot of talented guys here. They don't all post what all they're doing all the time, though.

 

I believe he has a budget of $10k to spend on the vette, not $10k total starting from scratch without a car.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is if you are running at a sanctioned (NHRA/IHRA) track you will only be allowed to run so fast without the addition of safety equipment. The faster you go the more safety you need, it would be wise to find a rule book and highlight the areas that pertain to you and what you want to do.
I believe the current rules are, now these are abreviated not the actual rules, just to give you an idea

14.00 seconds you need a helmet
Drive shaft loop if you run slicks
Fire extinguisher
13.50 = Rollbar (4-6 points) in convertibles
11.50 = Rollbar in everything (if you haven't altered the floorpan)
10.00 or 135+mph = Rollcage, License
150 mph+ = Parachute
8.50 = Serious Rollcage

 

Shouldn't need to move the battery, those being behind the seat, but a cutoff switch might be a good idea, too.
Belts at 12.0? Can't remember, but also good to plan for.
Coolant overflow, clutch can(?), fuel line routing (most stock stuff isn't good for 10s).

 

The roll bar requirement is 5 points, I know because I just built one a couple days ago. Main hoop, two rear down bars, one door bar on driver side. Has to be welded to the frame on any car that has a frame. This is kind of impossible to do on my soft top equipped 62 Corvette and keep the top working, but a later T top should be possible, but it will be tight and difficult to install.

racing harness is required if you have a roll bar or cage, otherwise OEM or similar seat belts.

The battery cutoff switch is required if you relocate the battery, or run faster than 10.00. But it would be a good idea to add it, having the battery located in the passenger compartment. Also for safety, look at venting and the battery hold down hardware, they usually like to see 3/8" bolts going through the frame or other steel support.

 

10s for under 10
https://www.racingjunk.com/altered/184723721/altered-drag-car-race-ready-.html
I know, you don't have the funds and this will need a truck and trailer. Just wanted you to see what is out there to run 10s.

 

having a street car go that fast is a whole different ball of wax

 

I completely agree. Also the lighter the better, and IRS is not typical.
Here's something else. This is what a vette setup for 1/4 mile often looks like. Again, not street friendly.
https://www.racingjunk.com/door-cars/184309147/1976-corvette-drag-car.html

Both of these were pages deep in Drag Racing Cars with the 10k limit. Most are rollers, like this one.

 

The very first post in this thread references @squirrel 's 9's for9k thread, which includes the initial cost of the vehicle.
Guess that was not the intention here.

 

Well, you know what they say about making assumptions