heh...I hauled it to the track on a trailer! me with little confidence. But it did drive back onto the trailer, so that's something.
If the post with figures didn't convey it, He's my hero too. The 60 foot time shows it's not launching, which given first time out, basic sorting still to be done, high CG, short wheelbase and small tires, tracks. The quarter time and speed match. I'd expect a turbo to pull harder in the second half. There's a lot left here even with safe fuel and timing. Better to sneak up on this, who knows how it will handle laying down big power (high, short WB). So for a first time out getting used to it, and still not dialed on tune and traction, I'd say his goal of 9s is possible, with maybe a bit of work on the suspension and tires. There will be other things that pop up, there always is. EDITED Posted 60 Foot 1.81 330 Foot 4.86 660 Foot 7.37 660 MPH 97.81 1000 Foot 9.56 1/4 Mile ET 11.44 1/4 Mile MPH 116.67 Goals 9.99 60 Foot 1.39 330 Foot 4.01 660 Foot 6.30 660 MPH 107.83 1000 Foot 8.29 1/4 Mile ET 9.99 1/4 Mile MPH 132.63
and do a comparison of required RWHP to run 117 vs 133 mph with 3100 lbs race weight. 408 vs 600 so if I started with 300 hp (that's the factory rated hp of the engine, btw) and added 1/3 of an atmosphere of boost to get 400, then I need the other 2/3 atmosphere (15 psi total) boost to get where I need to go. it's almost like I planned it that way. Now, to make the plan work...
Jim, been doing some catching up on your thread. Looks like you are getting there............... (Just got to page 8) Wanted to mention 3 things in case you are still solving problems. On my S10 with LS I found that with the right radiator I could modify the radiator support and set the radiator inside the support itself. Gained about 3-4 inches. Then I made a shroud that retains the radiator when installed and will use some foam tape on each side of the shroud. As the shroud is installed and pulled back (actually forward) the foam insures a good seal on the sides as its squeezed between the shroud and the rad support. It should help insure the fan(s) pulls air thru the radiator if it doesn't have air leaking at the sides. If you haven't checked, be sure you have the flexplate the correct distance from the block as the LS engines have a shorter crank and some have to use a spacer to position it correctly. Ruins the front pump quickly if its wrong. Last thing, the picture of the motor mount with the water pump heater outlets..........might want to pull the outlets and tap the pump for AN fittings with an angle so the hoses aren't too close to the exhaust heat.
Good tips, thanks! I found other ways to deal with them, as you'll see the further you read. The hole for the radiator is just too small for what I want, which is way too much cooling ability. So I decided to take the path of least resistance...have the radiator stick out the top, and not really have to cut anything except the part that went across the top, which is a bolt in piece. The radiator I found is for a slightly later Chevy truck, it has two plastic studs sticking out the bottom, I just drilled holes in the "frame" rails and dropped it right in place. It's hella ugly, but it works, and it was about as cheap as you can get for a cooling system with that much capacity. One other problem with this is the reservoir, there's no cap on the radiator, so I put the stock truck reservoir in, but it has to be higher than the radiator, so it makes it all even uglier. But it works, and it was cheap/easy. I did struggle with the flex plate for a while, I could not find the info I needed, so I got a stock replacement but SFI rated plate for a 4L80e behind a 6.0, and it fit with the correct spacing between plate and converter at the bolt pads...but the pilot was half an inch short, so I got the half inch space for that. Then the bolt pattern was wrong, I had to drill it to match the TH400 converter. I looked for a while and could not find a reasonably priced plate with all the correct details, strangely. But I'm happy with how it all fit together. And I have 7/16" bolts and nuts holding the converter to the plate. The heater hose fittings didn't seem to be a problem. The big one goes to the reservoir, the small one I just put a short hose on, and made a short beaded plug to cap it off.
WOW, WOW, WOW, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gotta love that "CHEEP" kicked ass on this run, and its only going to get better and faster, as more tuning is going to happen. BRAVO @squirrel !
thanks! I played with wastegate springs today, trying to get a feel for the numbers of how they work. Installed height, seat pressure, lbs/in, piston area, valve area, etc. I think it all adds up, if I figure it was getting about 3-4 psi exhaust back pressure at the wastegate at 5 psi boost, then that would be enough to open the valve with the soft springs that were in it. I put in the next heavier set of springs that should end up roughly around 10 psi, it might be 8, it might be 12. I'll see when I go for a drive, if I have enough road, that is! And there's one more heavier outer spring that should get it up around 15, if my math is right. But I don't want to go there quite yet.
Have u considered a water-alcohol injection after the intercooler? Do u run fuel with 15% or maybe E85. Friend has run totally stock EFI v6 ( bigger injectors ) on 18 lbs (17-19) many times; at 5 lbs water injection starts & timing starts to back off. Based on 2 caculations on speed & ET his 3.6 liter (222 ci ) is making around 480 hp
I've thought about it, but I really don't want to. I want to run pump 91 or 93 when driving around, and try to keep the tune safe enough that it will be OK with that and no injection. There's a guy in Texas with a build kind of similar to mine (Green Cherokee 2 door with turbo LS) that is doing methanol injection, instead of intercooler, and he recently smoked a piston when the methanol system developed a problem. I really like simple things that don't have extra parts to go wonky, if I can. Anyways...back to racing...I found the datalog from my 11.44 pass Friday night. The file management system is taking me a while to figure out. you can see I got off the throttle a bit when it was getting squirrely in second gear. But otherwise it looks kind of like it should?
Also after I swapped out the springs today I went for a little drive, and it has even more traction problem in second under boost than it did before, but the boost got up past 5 a bit before I let off completely. I need to figure out how to change the scale to psi, vs kPa, so it's easier to understand. And the blue color for manifold pressure is hard to see on the black back ground, so there are more things I need to figure out how to deal with..
@squirrel Its been several months ago for me but I stumbled upon it I believe it's under one of these two drop downs To change to PSI , & I believe Its where you can change Chanel's to be seen in graph.. It's easy but I cannot remember, The E Or box with dots
Again, peanut gallery. Seems the data shows boost. It also shows Target AFR which is a good 2 UNDER the Actual AFR. I get the feeling the computer isn't using the boost signal to enrich the fuel curve properly. I'd be leery of running that much leaner under boost.
Well...sort of...as throttle and rpm increase, boost increases, until the wastegate starts to limit it. So closing the throttle some will reduce boost. But the wastegate is on it's own to limit boost to a set amount, or close to it, under WOT conditions.
Thanks for pointing that out. Made me look again! but it turns out the difference is the scaling. If you look at the left column, you see that the box is checked for AFR scale, but not Target AFR scale...and the two are set to have different start and end points! When I set them the same, you see the two are overlapped pretty well.
@squirrel Just a pic of my screen that I took some time back , Maybe it will show / help to Locate the drop down for PSI & other , still playing with , I was dealing @ time with Lean bog @ first hit , then Rich . My fix was to add 4 degs of timing From 16 to 20 deg of initial for lean @ hit. I think I have 25 deg of initial. I am running a distributor right now, I have not gotten around to putting the crank trigger on. View attachment 6416466 View attachment 64164
Thanks, I finally figured out what you're saying and how it works. I forgot that boost psig and MAP are two different things. That configuration table also appears in the gauges thing I was playing with a few days ago, I didn't realize it's a different one, that works the same way in both places.
Glad I was able to bring clarity to it! Gotta say though, that I would hope that a snapshot in time aligned all traces! No wonder all the new car software has so many issues and the DTCs still require an understanding of the gaps in what is flagged and what is the actual expected data and what isn't.
I'm pretty new at all this, I expect it will take me a while to be able to do much with it, and I'll never understand it all.
I can use the laptop for programming, and that is what I do. But I trigger the data logging with the small screen, because I haven't yet figured out how to secure a laptop to the car so I can access it while driving. And even if I could, it's probably too distracting to be safe.
The Jalopy Journal
