I have very spendy Walker with condenser BEAUTIFULLY made. 1929 AA healthy sbc 700r4 17" 2 speed fan 3000cfm. I normally use alum. for radiator because they are less expensive. This is my first high dollar brass. It's never overheated but continues to run hotter and hotter above the 185 thermostat. Runs fine in mild weather. Removed trans cooler from passing through rad. helps some Removed hood no help. WHATS A GOOD ALUMINUM RADIATOR
If you had taken the picture just a little bit to the left of where you did, we could see the cooling system...more pictures? also, I hold my phone sideways to take pictures for things that end up being viewed mostly on computer monitors.
It's never overheated but you want to scrap the high-end Walker for a cheap ass Aluminum radiator? I'm in the wrong business.
185 degrees is when the thermostst opens to allow the coolant to flow, no where near operating temperature (unless it's a non pressurised system) What counts is the pressure of the radiator cap, for every 1 pound raised, equates to approx 2 degrees A 13-pound radiator cap raises the boiling point of coolant by approximately 25 degrees Celsius. This means a 13-pound cap will increase the boiling point of a 50/50 coolant/water mixture from 100°C (212°F) to roughly 125°C (257°F).
It’s never overheated but runs hotter than 185? That’s not hot enough for a healthy sbc. sounds like your fixing something that’s not broken. mine runs 215 all day long. Never boiled over. I’ll trade ya an ebay aluminum for that defective Walker all day long Maybe 2
In my Chevy, I have run both a Walker and a Griffin, both ran the same exact temperature, so you don't have a radiator problem.
Witch Walker Rad ? Z ? How hot does it Get ? Idle & cruise .. Brass over Alm unless your wanting light , Straight water transfers heat better than Antifreeze , Antifreeze has a Higher boil point then water thoe
Have a mild sbc an a 30 yr old walker with engine driven fan a walker shroud. 185 200 in Hot weather.
Thermostat going bad and opening later? Radiator needs flushing? Runs hotter than it used to going at speed or idling?
This another thing to make you think about , Im sure where ever you have your Temp gauge Now , move it to another place you will get a different temp reading , I have experimented on Gen 1 sbc with up to 6 gauges that where Calibrated to read the same ,,6 @ one time 6 different temps , SB2 engine solved many of these issue's.
That’s the kinda info needed. I’d confirm the t-stat is working and verify temp from another source. Brass cooling better than aluminum is based on heat transfer of the 2 materials. Brass does that better, however the connection or soldier used to connect parts together doesn’t. I’ve installed hundreds more aluminum radiators than brass. Never an issue. not all aluminum rads are designed the same. Flue count it a myth. It’s flue design. I’m coolimg 500 cubic inches with a 2 flue aluminum. Almost too cool. Hardly gets over 185. With a crappy flex fan and no shroud in a 7k pound ride. I’m doing everything wrong according to the experts. The core of that 2 flue is slightly wider than the 4 flu copper it replaced.
I have 3 walker Zs & 1 BrassWorks , I have even used cheap 130 ebay rad 32 shell On over 600 hp with 11:5 , comp Kept cool @ idle 195 , playing with pumps , pulleys , different thermostats & few other things ,,, SBC holds less then 3 gal of coolant with 32 Rad.. On chevy first Gen V8's P side will run cooler then D side . also , I do not know if other bands do same ? A flat head you can get same Temp L & R because separate no crossovers in block for coolant, 2 water pumps . Most just use 1 gauge , when you start playing with & experimenting you will see eye opening differences . You can pull water out of side of block , Freeze plug area , back side of intake , between 4&6 , 5&7 ... all to Balance/try to a steady temp across all cylinders
I don't think you are moving enough air with your electric fan....a shaft mounted fan will move more. I run a Zips riser on my healthy SBC in a '31 A with a water pump shaft mounted fan and shroud. It has a Walker radiator...even idling, on a hot day, it tops out at 195 Down the highway, it runs a consistent 185 even in 100 + degree temps...supposed to have some of that on Friday I also run a 35% Ethynylene Glycol to water mixture because that still has freeze/burst protection and higher specific heat for heat transfer. Ignition will make a difference, make sure it isn't too retarded good luck
I have a 30+ year old Walker in my stock Model A and has been great. I have a four row Brassworks in my 30 Sport Coupe with an H&H flathead and with 160 degree thermostats it takes forever to open the thermostats on a cool day and has never went over about 180 on a 100 degree day . The Brassworks was pricy but been worth it, I'm not a big fan of aluminum radiators and sure wouldn't replace a good Walker with one!
<<< ---- I can sit in bumper to bumper traffic in my '32 with a 44 year old Walker Radiator with a mechanical fan, the air on and it never gets any hotter than 220. HRP
A well functioning SBC has a combustion efficiency coolant temperature range that STARTS at 205ºF. Below that you are literally wasting fuel without using it to produce power.
Will it center the fan in the middle of the radiator? If so I would bet it would pull more air through the radiator. Then get the biggest 6 blade fan that will fit and a shroud around the fan.
what Temp does it go to Now ? We , I would like to Know , I see EFI , so I am assuming "Two "" separate attempts. What is your Initial timing before TDC? No matter if stock or not , engine SBC will like 15 deg to as much as 25 deg's.. To low will cause high Temps Zip with plate on water pump propeller & 6 or 7 Blade fan , lik a OEM With a Jag clutch , its the short's . Still Whats the Temp Go To ? Does it Boil Over ?? Are you Sure All air Out ??? Can be Hard sometimes to get it all Out? Sometimes Need to use Vac Down to remove all air even on Upper hose above thermostat, May be Fan is pulling Air threw Holes On the Made shroud ??? Not threw Radiator ,,
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