Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

It got up to a whole 41° the other day so I went out to celebrate the heatwave (in my shirt sleeves) by starting to install my bop top...

 

Bop Top going together well.
Made custom header-bow brackets in SolidWorks and 3D printed in stainless. This was necessary to properly accommodate the laid back windshield angles. Will post photos of the trial nylon prints when I get a chance. In the meantime, here are some photos of my progress...

 

That's one of the nicer tops I've seen. Does it have side curtains also?

 

Negative

 

I figured out what that boom noise I hear is when I hit a bump hard, as in Jalopy Hill climbing

 

Same on my sedan , Just because I do not want to notch , to set Low

 

Beats the middle of the floor above the diff housing?
I figure, sooner of later it'll metal form it's own little "hump" and no longer be a problem

 

Hahaha. LOL. That's basically the same principle I used to modify the grille bottom of my old '40/'37 pickup...it eventually flattened out nicely.

 

Which caves first, the floor or the brake line?

 

In the photo, the p-clips are bent upward to give access to the nuts. The brake line was not actually in-between the floor and housing. It's in the small recess over the edge of the pumpkin...very well protected.

 

Today, I got the new differential in there...whew, was that ever a pain in the ass. Next time, I will Jack the car up much higher. It is very tight in there.

 

I thought of getting in the trunk and cutting out a rectangle to give the rear end housing some clearance... I could panel beat a nice "hump" and weld or rivet it in with a flange. But then after all that work, the axle tubes would probably smack the frame rails.

 

Did you do the good ol drop the dif on your chest/stomach and then wiggle out from under the car dance?
I’m thinking about changing gears one more time on my Tudor (as I have everything else dialed in now), but without a lift and thinking of the doing the dif dance one more time is really putting my enthusiasm on pause.

 

I borrowed a HF scissor type trans jack from a buddy and it worked well. Next time, I will jack the car up much higher because there wasn't enough vertical space to roll out the jack with pumpkin on it. Also, check how much room you have between your exhaust pipes because if you don't you'll be taking the exhaust off too.

 

3D printed in stainless? Do tell us more, and pics, please!

Chris

 

Pictured below is the original bracket, then a few prototypes printed in PA12 Nylon to test different angles. I don't have any photos of the stainless steel parts, but they're identical and we're printed via DMLS.

 

Clever stuff! Neat way of going about things. To be honest I was expecting, or hoping for, a more kinda stylised solution. Nevertheless, most interesting! Thanks.

Chris

 

When you build & fabricate you will learn to look 2-3-4 steps ahead So you do not have a Issue in future with insulation / removal , maintenance & parts change

 

Interesting. I just switched from a two inch chop windshield to a three inch chopped one.
Never liked the angle of the header before so I know I need to modify it even more for the new height. As I leaned the posts and didn’t mess with the wood header, it always looked like it was angled up.
My plan was just going to be adjusting (filing) the angle on the wood header where the frame mounts attach. Now you have me thinking.

This was the 2” chopped windshield.

 

Keeping the windshield angle constant, if you change the height of the windshield/posts, you will independently change the angle of the tube which goes over the door. 3D printing allows for this to be easily and rapidly modified to accommodate. Nothing in my install is in a bind and the header-bow is dead horizontal.

 

Got it done, will post better photos when I can get it outside (raining for days here)...

 

If you have a friend with SolidWorks, I'd be happy to email you the model...from there, you can vary the of either tube or both, then 3D print to fest fit, then modify your existing brackets. Message me if you want to talk about it.

 

Rain X
Nice looking with Top on .
My self , I only drive if I get caught in
Rain , scary @ times on groved slicks .

 

Just found your build thread because of your engine tuning thread. Read through the whole thing, very cool car and it turned out great!

I love the colours, I have had a similar idea in mind for my RPU since I bought it. I'm still collecting parts.

 

I pulled my plugs out and most are oil fouled. Looks like it's time for some valve seals. Anyone have an opinion on what kind of seals to put on these heads (umbrella or ring, etc.) ? I believe they are big valve fuel injection camel hump heads...



There's a little oil in the cylinders

 

How loose are guilds ?
Machine needed for teflon
If guide Ok Umbrellas , Unless you plain on pulling heads .

 

No idea yet, haven't pulled a valve cover.
If the heads need to come off, I'll probably replace with these...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chev...bfSRGg0H01-cQYZ-K8W7hG58rA89FZH0aAhjgEALw_wcB
If anyone has any better aluminum head suggestions, please chime in

 

Depends what you mean by better. For a head with the vintage camel hump style, the Trick Flow heads are probably better, but certainly not cheaper.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30210002

Will the Speedway heads be fine in your application? Probably.

 

I am dealing with the same issue on my fresh 283. Can also be oil through the PCV or an internal intake leak caused by gasket or the wrong angle on the intake surface. The valve seals can be done without pulling the heads if you add compressed air to the cylinder. Mine is not fixed, but the above things need to be checked

 

We put umbrella seals on my 283 in my 64 30 years ago. Used the rope in the cylinder trick.