It’s home! Apparently Mike hid the bell housing somewhere and we couldn't find it, but that's fine since I've got some travel scheduled next week and won't be able to spend much time on it. Can't wait to get it in the chassis and keep going on this damn thing...
Got the incorrect pilot bushing removed (bread trick worked great) and the new bearing installed. Put the clutch and rebuilt pressure plate on. Then the bell housing with a new throw out bearing and carrier. And finally put the transmission back on. Just have to add the starter and I can put it back in the frame this weekend
Yesterday, I did something that I didn't plan to, and didn't really want to, do. I had planned to measure for the driveshaft last week, but when I went to put the yoke in the transmission, it got hung up in the tail housing. It went through the seal, but then got tight in the bushing. I knew it was snug, but not that tight. So, in reluctant denial, I pulled the engine and transmission back out of the car. The task? Remove the tail housing from the BW OD transmission and figure out what's wrong. I've never worked on one of these before, so I read everything that I could to see where this could go south. I also worked very slow and took pictures so I had the best chance of getting it back together. I thought there were 2-3 possibilities. One: the output shaft spline is twisted, preventing the yoke from sliding on any more. Two: The spline is damaged. 3) The bushing is undersize. I removed the reverse lockout lever pin and pulled the lockout lever, and unbolted the tail housing. When I removed the tail housing, several cylindrical bearings fell to the floor. I quickly located all of them and put them in a safe place. Next, I removed the tailshaft from the housing and inspected that. The yoke slipped on the output spline very smoothly. No binding or catching. Great! Next, I put the yoke through the seal and into the bushing. Stuck. Went in about 1/4 - 1/2" and got tight. I decided to hone the bushing slowly until the yoke just fit. Once that was done, I thought I would put it back together, but I don't have the gasket. Dang. Turns out that's O.K. I need a 12VDC solenoid for the OD anyway, so I'll call VanPelts tomorrow and order the gasket, and 12V goodies I need for the conversion. Hopefully it goes back together as easily as it came apart...
I got the rear seal replaced on the R10 today. Mac said it would be tough, and it was. Not an easy seal to remove. Once I had it out, I dressed the ID with a stone, and the OD with a file to clean up any dings. Then I installed the new seal. I also got my headers today. Took a while, and they still need a bit of finish work (IMO), but I won't be installing them for a week or two anyway.
Those roller bearings are for the sun gear I did one when I was 13 yo, old guy told me to pack them in grease and rap a rubber band around them Reinstall the housing and letter rip. The oil will dissolve the rubber bands It worked for me Wow I just realized I’m the old guy now
I saw a pic using the rubber band. I just put a little grease on them and slid the tail shaft on before they fell out...worked fine.
I got more done this weekend. Trans was put back together. The snap ring was a bit of a challenge but I got it figured out. New solenoid installed. Engine and transmission back in the car and bolted down. Measured for the driveshaft. Installed a vent on the open drive conversion rather than the banjo. I was worried about metal chips in the rear end. This seemed like a good solution. Also installed the headers and mocked up the exhaust location. Moving forward. also a quick Timelapse of the install https://youtube.com/shorts/HhKYhR73SA4?si=-1YLUw7OTpLxehvG
Now that's a productive weekend! Great work, per usual. And of course, I like the little curl on the vent line.
Thanks, Tim Thanks, Joey. Yeah, once I got the parts for the transmission, I knew I needed to get this done. It was pretty warm this weekend, and warmer in the garage, but worth the sweat. I thought you might like the curl...I need to remake that part. Not happy with it, but it's no big deal to make another one.
I had Greg at Santa Rosa Drive Line Service build me a driveshaft. He did an awesome job. It’s 3” diameter tube. Should be strong enough for a flathead
Installed. Perfect fit. Now to make a hoop. I’m going to add a second torque arm on the other side to attach the hoop to. I will also use that as a place to route the E brake cable.
Looks great! I’m curious you know if the different r-10 yokes are interchangeable? I’ve got one behind a Stude and the yoke is bolted to the over drive and the factory driveshaft had a slip joint in the shaft. Been curious about swapping to a slip yoke and a normal driveshaft. keep up the good work!
not sure I’m following. When I got my r10, it didn’t come with a yoke. Another member here sent me one but it was too big, so I honed the bushing to match. I talked with Mac VP about it. Most of them are 1.5” diameter. Mine was exactly that but was still tight
I read your q again and think I get it. I’m not sure if you can switch from one of the bolted on yokes to a slip yoke. If you can take the yoke off you might know more. Mine is 1.5” OD.
Thanks man, if I figure it out I will let you know. I figured maybe you had come across the info when you were getting ready to tear yours down.
The Jalopy Journal
