I am working on setting up a Corvair IFS for my street rod project here is the Idea list thus far: conversion of corvair hubs for 32.... Machine OD of hubs to accept S10 4x4 rotors replace 7/16" x 20 / 0.472 Knurl wheel studs with S10 4x4 M12 X 1.5 /0.501 Knurl Replace wheel bearings and races design caliper mounting backplate for either S10 4x4 dual piston calipers or Speedway Metric calipers with oversize pistons https://www.speedwaymotors.com/2-3-4-Inch-Big-Bore-1978-88-GM-Metric-Brake- Caliper,25158.html My question is, has anyone done a rear mounted rack and pinion conversion on one of these and if so, would you share specific details on how to best do it to avoid bump steer?
Wanting to do something different and keep it as much Chevrolet as I can.... Dad was a dealer mechanic in the late 50's until the mid 60's... I already have a rebuildable corvair IFS, but someone put a front mounted R&P on it that would interfere with the front splash apron and was not well thought out...
Another reason being that it will make repair parts more available as my son and I have several S10's and then I could basically get all of the parts for a brake job under a single vehicle reference that would be readily available at most parts stores when on a trip.
To expand a bit on the question @BJR asked, why? Negatives It's an old design for a rear engine car. It was done to rods back in the 60s, but had fallen out of favor a decade later. It requires a lot of work and modification. I would imagine that there are a lot of more refined, modern designs that have better geometry, easier parts availability and easier installation. Even if you limit it to GM offerings, the obvious answer is Corvette upper/lower arms and spindles for 5 generations, along with various other platforms. You just mentioned S10. Why not use those parts? https://autoctrls.com/wp-content/img/chevy-s10-front-suspension-diagram-dxv.jpg Positives Different - not really. As said, it was done back in the day. It sounds like what you are working on already has it, but poorly done. Fixing may be less work that replacement, but that's your call.
All very good points..... I am working on a limited budget as we all are.... it also is one of the few designs that will allow the front fenders to remain in their original configuration. I thoroughly appreciate your insight and opinion.... I am still in the planning phase and believe that the M2 took over dominance in the market due to the demise of the corvair due to Nader's raiders and thus the limitation on parts....
Hey, I appreciate that it was taken in the mindset it was written. We all have budgets to work within too! While the MII has become the basis for most modern stuff, it's also pretty old. I'm no engineer or CAD/CAM guy who can model the parts and compare, so I can't guide you with valid points on a better choice. Darn near everything built in the past 20 years is heavier than most rods are, so I wouldn't even know which are a good starting point. I'd want to avoid any strut, multi-link and one-off (expensive, hard to find) stuff, but it also comes down to adapting to the typical C channel or box frame rail and as you said, cost. Add in packaging for early fenders you mentioned and it's the needle in the haystack. If the Corvair fits, works, and will be cheaper and easier than others, go for it.
I had an Olds powered 34 Ford back in the late 60's that someone had put a Vair front end in. It understeered something awful. If you went around a corner fast the front tires would slide. Replaced it with a stock Henry front suspension and all was good.
I drove a full fendered 31 Ford Victoria for many years, over 140k miles, with the 2nd generation Corvair front crossmember, suspension and brakes. As noted the front steer rack interferes with the splash apron. At about 40k miles I converted it to rear steer, to improve the front end appearance. The conversion was not difficult. I used an Omni K-car rack. I swapped the bolt on steering arms, from side to side. The steering radius was too large, so I was able to get the performance, shortened steering arms. That helped a lot. I also swapped the wheel cylinders, side to side, so the brake line pointed to the rear. I never had a problem with the adequacy of the drum brakes. Tire wear was never a problem. Bump steer was never a problem I had to replace the brake shoes once while in Vermont ( I live near Chicago), in the early 2000's. Stopped at the NAPA store. He asked if I wanted the cheap ones or the better ones. He had both in stock, no one stock anything these days. Corvair parts are still available from Clark's Corvair in Manchester, NH. https://ssl.corvair.com/user-cgi/main I hope this helps.
Thank You! Saving these items to my notes! As far as brake upgrade is concerned, I will be contacting these people for caliper mounting plates to adapt the metric calipers and s10 4x4 rotors: https://www.levairperformance.com/mechanical-and-engine
I love to see people use their ideas and skills to adapt things. I'm building a 32 as well and it will have independent front suspension. I plan to run fenders, so its important that whatever is used fits into the space under the fenders without having to modify them. I'm also in the process of building a 49 Chevy pickup which I have added a Corvette suspension to, so I'm aware of some of the issues that come up when trying to adapt independent suspension. There is plenty of fender room on the truck, but it was still a time consuming task to get some of the components to work, and I had to buy some things like the swaybar components and cobble stuff together. When I decided my 32 would incorporate independent front suspension, I did a lot of comparing. I not only compared prices but features. Heidt's seemed to be the most well known, but the price was higher, it didn't come with a sway bar ($400 option) and shipping was quite a bit higher. To make a long story short, I went with a TCI from Pete and Jakes. It came with the sway bar standard and its price was cheaper than Heidts. Shipping was also several hundred dollars cheaper. TCI is a well known company. I would suggest just making a goal to save up the money till you can purchase something similar as you will get into a lot of unexpected issues trying to make the Corvair fit. Not saying its not possible, but there isn't much room there to make it fit and operate properly and still make it look right when done. I have lots of machining and fabricating experience, and I would not attempt that particular conversion. This is not meant to criticize, but to give you an honest opinion about attempting that. Here are some pics I took of how finished 32 independent suspensions look. Maybe they will help you decide. This should provide you with some ability to compare how others have done it, and the close confines that it has to fit into. A friend said to me one day, that shiny parts are for those who show them and painted parts are for those who drive them............I got the painted stuff. Its cheaper too. One thing you might consider. If you are able to attend the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville Ky at the end of July, you can compare many of the suspensions as vendors have displays set up and often offer show discounts as well. Summit offers a 10% show discount on many other parts and its possible to offset much of the attendance costs. Also there will be hundreds if not more than a 1000 32s in the parking lot that you can see and talk to owners about their suspensions.
Great post, @ekimneirbo . There really isn't much room on an early fendered car, let alone have it all be in proper orientation.
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/independent-front-suspension https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/designing-ifs.31018/
How narrow does you front track need to be? An MGB has a bolt-on cross member and rack and pinion steering. The spindles use the same A6-A2 bearings as early mustangs and Camaros so you could use those hubs or a wilwood hub. But the track is pretty narrow, only about 51" hub to hub. They also have an integrated shock/ upper arm. That saves a little space but it's different. Rebuilding one only takes $20 of bushings.
Can someone post a pic of a corvair front suspension unit? I think I have one that was used to rat up my '57 Morris. I saved it (so far, anyway) just in case someone wanted it. I'm just not sure it's actual corvair. The steering box looks like corvair....
*my ears ringing, a month later* Right here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...52-rambler-wagon.1291532/page-5#post-15121872 I did a deep dive regarding setting up the steering with my LM (late model, '65+) Corvair front suspension-- Ackerman, etc., but it's a deep rabbit hole, and I have no room to mount the steering linkage components at the rear, so I didn't dive too deeply. I suppose like any classic vehicle, you can take it as far as you want, but I will add this: I did the "Blazer" front brake upgrade (basically adding bolt-on hubs, separate rotors, and dual piston front brake calipers) on my DD '98 Sonoma 2WD and I have zero regrets, so I would think it's be a great upgrade for an LM Corvair front suspension. I would probably go that route versus the Metric single piston calipers if both were similar in cost and complexity. Scarebird used to offer bolt on LM Corvair disc brake adapters, but I think they have been discontinued for a few years now. The Corvair forums have plenty of folks who have been down this road already, so it'd be worthwhile IMHO to visit there and spend some time searching and reading.
You guys are GREAT! Still doing research as the job/commute/life, never allow the time I'd like to dedicate to the projects.... seem to have fallen behind on my chores around the house while I was down for 4 1/2 months for eye surgery on both eyes.... keep the ideas coming... I'm still kickin'!
In the very early '70's I put 2nd gen Corvair fronts under a '34 Ford cpe & a little later an " A" delivery. Used front mounted Pinto R&P with shortened arms on both. Drove well, steered well. Worked for me. An after thought : Springs, got with the local GM parts guy and sourced a heavier Corvair spring, worked good with SBC engine weight.
If you don't have anything intelligent to add to the conversation, don't be a jackass and keep your snarky commnets to yourself!
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