Good luck with the build As others have said, Gasser Wars is a great book with a year by year breakdown of the rules. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gasser-must-haves-and-cant-haves.822149/ this thread has some good information too
Appreciate all the replies everyone, some great info and advice. I really do appreciate it. I had an engine guy pull the motor it came with apart, good news and bad news there. Good news: It looks like it has zero hours on it. Sat for a while, but functionally in like new condition and no rebuild is needed. Bad news: Its a ~1980 Target Master 350. From what I read, those heads are prone to cracking. It might even need a set of heads and a cam to use the carbs and tunnel ram, not sure on that yet.
If you’re not going for a killer engine, then a decent set of heads from Summit or Jeg’s would be a reasonable price choice for new heads that will flow enough. And an hydraulic roller cam with a matching set of springs and viola you got a decent engine for probably 2 grand more. I like spending other people’s money!
Not that I have a dog in the fight, but I drove a Dodge A-100 van for years and it handled and rode great with a straight front axle.... and those had the front seats right over the wheels
Chassis is clean. Going to remove some peeling paint and paint it flat black. Rear suspension and rear end work is next. That will take some time. But after that I should be able to really get rolling.
Gasser motor is getting a health check up, new heads and a cam. Still undecide on the cam, my engine builder and I need to sort that out. I lucked out on the engine, big time. It's super clean, never run.
Recessed pistons with 4 valve reliefs? You must be making compression somewhere else or planning a blower?
It is most certainly a low compression motor from the factory. I think it was advertised at 8.2:1. We bumped it up a bit with smaller combustion chambers, skimming the heads and we went to a thinner head gasket. It will get me rolling cheap until I decide what I do down the road, it was basically free with the car. I've had my eyes out for an used blower too, which also might be an option.
spring for some wiseco or similar inexpensive forged flat tops now, while its apart - the block, crank and rods will be OK at decent power levels and you wont have to go back into the shortblock when you want to go faster - just change the heads and cam.....never connected this thread in my mind to the one on your uncles car......have fun building "yours"
Talked to my engine builder on that, and we decided to forgo it. Reason being is this 350 is probably only going to see one season and then I'll sell the complete long block. A complete 327 SBC or 400 SBC is in my future. Basically I don't know what the interior stuff is going to cost me and I don't want to run out of money for the first iteration before its road worthy. Same reason its getting a '57 rear end instead of a Ford 9". All in due time.
The stock '57 will live for awhile with 6-8" of rubber to to ground, than it will break unless you drive like my grandma............. There's things you can do to that rearend like bearing saddle braces, stronger spiders, etc. but your throwing money out the window. If spiders don't break the axles will. If on a budget a stock 9" is a better choice, upgrade it as you go along.
I am aware that its going to show its insides eventually. Again, trying to get her on the road within budget, I don't have unlimited resources and I'd much prefer it complete and driving than sitting in the garage.
If the budget is tight toss an 8.8" Ford in it. They're dirt cheap for a 3.73 or 4.10 posi and they'll handle more HP than most SBC engines ever make. About $200 at my local pick n pull and half that on holiday weekends. Stock with 31 spline axles, and same guts as a 12 bolt GM rear axle. I had one behind my 468 BBC powered Falcon gasser with wrinkle walls and 550 HP, and never flinched.
Everything you want to know about the 8.8" Ford axles. Mostly steer clear of the 2wd Ford Rangers with their 28 spline axles, and rarely a posi. But they're still very strong, just not the strongest. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-8-8-inch-rear-axle-history-and-specs/#gsc.tab=0 https://www.scribd.com/document/820435472/Ford-8-8-Inch-Rear-Axle-History-Specs-The-Ranger-Station Axle codes are found on tags, but also easy to check driver's door for code letters to determine what ratio, and open or limited slip is in the vehicle. Ford Explorers are all 31 spine, and can be drums or disc brakes. Always disc after 1995.
Always fun trying to get the broken axle remnant out of the spiders along side the highway with everyone doing 70 mph 10 feet away.....................
Which reminds me, I borrowed a heavy duty homemade axle slidehammer from the guy I bought my 57 from and managed to break the head off it.
Well, I know a 4 link isn't era correct and probably not kosher for the HAMB, but it's almost done. My buddy just needs to finish welding it up. I love the adjustability it provides, from ride height to rebound, ect. Entire thing from ride tech. I started on cleaning up the surface rust on the frame with a wire wheel, no way I'm stripping the whole thing, this isn't a show car. Going to paint it a semi gloss black chassis paint and send it.
Nah don’t worry about it, that rear suspension was a great call. You gained tons of tire clearance and adjustability. Great work! Also, I like that you left the original ‘mid mounts’ by the bell housing and the stock spring hangers on the frame instead of cutting em off like most ppl do. Just in case…
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