Another approach might be to keep the original gauges and add a couple of extra ones using brackets from the Model A vendors (Bratton's (301) 829-9880 or on line). They make brackets to mount gauges around the steering column or below the original instrument panel (1 or 2). Or an Aristocrat such as http://www.vintageford.com/word_search.cfm?line=Model A&DescEntry=aristocrat&Category= On the Aristocrat be sure there is enough room for modern gauges. A final thought might be to mount the gauges in the upholstery panel on the right hand cowl. Charlie Stephens
My 29 P.U. has "Speedhut" gauges , fit well with no modification of the stock fuel tank , each gauge is only 1" deep
My 34 chevy standard lower dash grafted to my 34 ford upper dash. Have a set of SoCal gauges until I can figure out how to get my old S.W. gauges apart for cleaning. So much dust in them now, can't see the numbers in the dark.
Dean Lowe's version is where I'm going, but you have to say goodbye to using the tank just because later 2-1/16-inch gauges are deeper than the stock, slightly smaller gauges and interfere with the stock tank. I am adding a few gauges overhead on my '29AA to ensure I can monitor all the engine symptoms. One thing to keep in mind: 28-29 Model A aftermarket dash panels can be hit and miss for fitment. Just because it is nice and chromy doesn't mean it will fit. Find a stock panel, regardless of the corrosion. Either refinish and re-plate it (nickel looks better than chrome IMO) or paint it a compatible color to the body.
this homemade Dash was in my old Roadster when I got it. Probably put in in the 50s. Good for a laugh!
I beleive it's 34 Coupe. https://classicvirus.com/2014/05/26/made-in-oakland-1934-chevrolet-3-window/ The center insert of this one has been butchered over the years. We made our own replacement insert out of 1/8" steel sheet, cnc plasma cut and krinkle powder coated black. Build thread of the car over on Canadian Rodder.... https://canadianrodder.com/forum/in...upe-to-cabriolet-conversion.24266/post-254687 The dash is fastened with 5 x 10-32 SS screws across the top and hinges on the lower two screws to access the Kugel 90 degree brake and clutch masters. The left most instrument is a 2-1/16 tach, the voltmeter is hidden under the dash. I know, I know, too much info, but better too much that not enough, right? LOL! Cheers!
My Model A has a 32 gas tank and used a 32 style dash. Used a 32 Tank and rear frame rails for a fuel tank (looks right with fenders, but would look weird w/o fenders). It was already built this way when I got the car, I just fixed it to add the 1" tubing structure under the cowl and put the rear frame rails in square with the body as there was a 1/8" angle by the original builder between the tank and the body.
You guys sure make it hard to decide what to put in my 30 ford coupe! Sold my coupe to get a vintage 55 chev drag car. Regretted it ever since. The buddy got ahold of me and asked if I had the 55 still. I said yes. Learned that he got death wobble in my 30 ford I sold to him. Hit a telephone pole. Traded straight up the 55 for my old 30 back. Destroyed all driveline out from under the car. Trans is ok. Some bolt holes gone. No big deal to fix. But I been working on it to get it back to where he had it. I’ll show you what it was when I sold to what it is now
Stoc Stock Model A gauge holes need to be opened up to 2-1/16 standard SW gauge diameter for modern gauges. Also, if trying to put modern gauges in Model A dashes, there will be interference with the fuel tank unless you abandon the tank, open it up behind the dash and make some room. Then it works just fine.
Your panel looks good. On my '29 panel, I tacked pieces in the stock gauge openings and laid out the SW gauge locations, Use of the big speedometer caused some rearranging to get everything to fit evenly. I completely welded any area that would remain after using a hole saw for the gauges. Once cut out, I metal finished the panel and sent it to the chrome shop. Luckily haven't had to deal with a stock tank, other than cutting them out.
I’m going to go out on a bit of a limb here and suggest something a little different. Rather than looking for an original dash that you need to modify to fit, or buying an aftermarket one, use the money to purchase a bead roller and shrinker/stretcher and make your own. Before you do that, grab some cardboard and do a mock-up first. This is one I did years ago for a Model A roadster cowl.
Then once you have a pattern you are happy with, transfer it onto a sheet of MDF. The MDF pattern will be needed as the template to cut out around the sheet metal. Metal shaping may seem a little daunting for first timers but if you click on YouTube you will find channels like “Iron Trap Garage” that show you how, step to step how to fabricate your own dash panel. The beauty of having your own metal shaping equipment is you can make your own panels to repair doors, lower cowls and even make full panels like cowl vents.
I made mine using the stock tank. I really wanted one of those cool aristocrat dashes but couldnt afford one. For about $30 I made this gauge panel (Not including the gauges), and I just use the stock gas gauge. I think I had them extruded about an inch to fit.
Current dash panel, soon to be swapped out for a slightly more traditional one with the original speedo. Cowl gas tank is still in use.
Your dash inspired me to adapt mine to the stock panel. Yours is so clean, tasteful and direct. I still needed some gauges but didn't want them in the (former) tank so I put them overhead, which is where I placed the ignition, light and hazard switches. That area also has the two temp gauges (engine and transmission), and three indicator lights (left, right turns and high beam). I put the hazard flasher switch in the center of the overhead console, right in front of the swap-meet rear-view mirror.
Side light, head light and main beam ( Im in the UK so domestic abbreviations) done with Letraset rub down letters then laqured over. The switch was repainted to match the body colour.
The Jalopy Journal
