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Hot Rods FE bellhousing question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ahshoe, Jul 11, 2025.

  1. ahshoe
    Joined: Sep 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,038

    ahshoe
    Member

    Other than the bump for larger clutch discs on a Ford big block FE ,C6OA . Are there any other differences in the truck C5TA bellhousing and the crazy priced C6OA ? Is the depth the same?
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. You’ll need an adapter. Hehe.
     
    ahshoe likes this.
  3. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,813

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    I’m almost sure the truck is 1/2 in less than the car . Best as I can remember the truck will allow small block trans to be used .
    Do some research , it’s been a long time , my mind is getting rusty
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. What transmission are you using? If using an OEM Ford 4-speed with the longer pilot bearing shaft, bolt 'er up. Using a Tremec TKO or TKX? It's more complicated... because the depth ISN'T the same.

    The truck bell is .350" deeper than the car bells. The TKO/TKX input is .700" longer than the Ford input. Spacer adaptors are available, but only for the car bells as they're all .700" thick. Because of the way they make them, they don't work for the truck bells. Everybody told me '... those don't work'... Challenge accepted.

    I'm facing this exact same issue for my '60 Sunliner. Truck bell, TKX trans. My lo-buck solution is a chunk of 3/8 aluminum big enough to cover the trans pattern with the hole for the front bearing retainer machined into it in the proper place. 3/8 = .375", the 'extra' .025" shouldn't matter, although not all of these are that deep; I've got one that measures only .330", getting me within .005" of the 'correct' depth. I'll index the adaptor hole to the bell hole, then pin the adaptor to the bell with four 3/8 flat head bolts so it can't move. Once it's on the motor, I'll correct any runout (if any) with offset dowl pins. The aluminum cost me about $25 off eBay, so I won't have much money in it (I picked up two bells for less than $50 each) and can run an 11" clutch with no issues. Because of 'clocking' of the throwout arm, I expect some monkey-motion may be needed on the clutch linkage but we'll see...

    I had hoped to have this done last year, but I've been fighting allergy issues and have basically been trapped in the house, although the Docs seem to be making some headway lately... I'll do a how-to when I get to it, soon hopefully.

    For the full discussion of this, look here... Technical - FE Manual Bellhousings: What are the REAL differences between them? | The H.A.M.B.
     
    chryslerfan55 and saltflats like this.
  5. ahshoe
    Joined: Sep 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,038

    ahshoe
    Member

    Using a toploader transmission
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  6. If using a toploader, you should be good to go with the truck bell as long as you have the longer small-block style (roughly 1.5" long, the FE was only 1") pilot shaft. ONLY the FE CARS used the shorter pilot shaft in cars after '64, virtually everything else had the longer one.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.

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