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Technical What Polish/Wax do you recommend for a Woody

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lostn51, Jul 12, 2025.

  1. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    I’m going to be waxing and polishing my woody later this week and was wondering what you guys use on the wood. I’m thinking that it has a polyurethane finish on the wood (it’s pretty deep looking) so should I get a wax for wood or will my Meguires I use for the paint do the job? I appreciate the advice
     
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  2. PHuscher
    Joined: Apr 21, 2019
    Posts: 15

    PHuscher

    Last time I asked someone about polishing my woody, I ended up with a black eye.

    With a polyurethane finish, that's what you're waxing, not the wood, so I'd use your preferred auto wax.
     
  3. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 35,871

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Lemon pledge??
    I know guys that used to use on their paint
     
  4. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,905

    George
    Member

    And on interiors of newer cars...Would depend on what finish the wood has, maybe check a vintage boat site.
     
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  5. TerrytheK
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,555

    TerrytheK
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :D:D

    DSC_0032_1000.jpg
     
  6. Z06-LITE
    Joined: Nov 13, 2010
    Posts: 251

    Z06-LITE
    Member

    I used to use Lemon Pledge on my old Harley Sportster. Paint, chrome, and frame. It looked great and never any streaks.
     
  7. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 10,960

    jnaki







    Hello,

    I have been doing repair and refinishing wood parts that have been on our various sailboats over the past 22 years. It was almost the same process we used back when we were doing interior panels on empty vans and older boats.

    I am sure you know that the worst thing is that the polyurethane used these days needs to coat the wood parts all over, not just on the surface. Water knows where to go to start the degrading of the wood. So, removal of the wood to coat it all over is the key.

    If one cannot get all of the wood off to coast everything, then make sure the polyurethane is as far in as possible and you get the full coverage of the product. We made sure the small brush tips went into the area between the wood and body or in our case, fiberglass surfaces of the sail boat.

    But, when we were able to take off or remove the hatchboard covers, that made it easier to coat 100% of the surfaces. The finish was what you chose to have, satin, glowed and did not shine as much. The gloss was very shiny everywhere. It is the choice one has to make.

    I have seen old woodies with shiny gloss coats and that was fine. Also, the satin finish versions were also nicely done. But, in each case, full reach liquid had to be done. Now, you are ready for maintenance.

    Jnaki

    That was one thing that takes place all of the time. The wood is relatively perserved with what you put on for coverage. But, a small nick or scratch from keys or buckles does need attention. If your woody is finished and rolling around, no wax is needed. The shine or satin finish is protective enough for most weather conditions. It seals the wood and the finish is usually hardened to resist the weather. Yes, the paint surface is also a hard surface and seals the metal. But, do you need to polish the wood?

    We did a lot of the wood maintenance over the years. The removable hatchcovers were the most refinished wood product on our sailboats. The weekly take off, storage even in bags and the reinstall when leaving the sailboat is always a careful proposition. It is the same for walking around a tight garage parking space near a finished wood surface, like a woody. Any scratch necessitates a touch up fix, if necessary. Water knows no boundaries and searches for raw wood.

    Some folks must treat woodies like a car paint, but it is not necessary if the polyurethane coating is finished as detailed as possible. Not just on the surface, but into the zillions of joints and cracks in the build. It is a personal thing. Protection is there and no wax was necessary.

    Note:
    upload_2025-7-15_4-6-15.png
    I sanded and recoated my son’s antique high chair once. The polyurethane compound was put on as one coat all over. The removable tray got two coats and it was sealed with the liquid. So, when the feeding time was over and the “stuff” was all over the tray, we just took it outside and hosed off everything. As active as a toddler can be, fork and spoon hitting the surface many times during feeding and random movements most toddlers make, the coated surface of the tray survived each time. No wax necessary… YRMV

    There were no cracks in the polyurethane and the sealing process worked well. Also, no wax was necessary, as the coating was waterproof and gave a nice natural shine. We used the satin finish on the antique high chair and a satin finish on all of the wood on our sailboats.

    Note 2:

    The sailboat deck railings got an annual polyurethane coating due to constant accidental dings, walking up and back for various lines, poles, including sail changes. The door hatchcovers stayed relatively in excellent condition due to the fact that we stored them in protective bags and placed them in an area so as not to get banged around. They lasted longer than the non removable deck wooden parts. No wax necessary.
     
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  8. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    The car as far as I know has never been rained on since dad and I restored it. The wood was coated all over with the urethane before we put it on for the last time. It is a glossy finish but I noticed that the side that was towards the light is not as glossy as the other side. It has been sitting in the garage for the last 17 years with only one window from the walk in door letting the sun in. I did see some wood polish in the garage but there’s 2 kinds a paste and Pledge but I think it was for the for set of wood that we built for the car in the 80’s. What on it now was done by “Whiskers” somewhere up in Minnesota I think.
     
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  9. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    Yeah you should see the look on my wife’s face whenever I asked her if she wanted to come out to the garage to help me wax my woody. :D

    I did get to drive it around the neighborhood whenever I finished washing the rascal and that was fun as all get out. Surprisingly it rides pretty good for a bone stock car but nowhere near as smooth as my Tudor of the same year. But thanks to you guys I decided it was time to leave it off the trailer and start enjoying the car. Now what direction I take it from here is up in the air but it’s a Dearborn and an AACA Grand National winner so I have a very nice start at it. Somehow I think I see a nice set of Halibrand knock-offs and an altitude adjustment in it’s future :D:D
     
  10. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 8,055

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    First thing that came to mind. I've used it many times on my Model A pickup.

    I used it on my bike probably a hundred times, it works great. Even on the engine, and the exhaust. As thjy warm up after you apply it the wax (not really wax at all) just kind of melts and leaves a nice dark coating. Polishes the tank up great. Even works on the tires, but avoid the tread. Great stuff.
     
  11. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,468

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Ford from 1929 until the end of wood production used varnish. I don't know what is required for polyurethane or automotive clear coat. When I clean the varnished wood on my '46 I first use a damp microfiber cloth and dry it with another cloth. Once or twice a season I use finishing wax that is available from a fine woodworking supply that's made for varnished surfaces. It goes on like car wax and buffs to a shine. Most restorers do not use polyurethane or automotive clear coat, if your car is a Dearborn and A.A.C.A. winner it might be varnish.
     
  12. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

  13. dirt car
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,524

    dirt car
    Member
    from nebraska

    Hmmm...waxing his board & his woody...........
     
  14. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

  15. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

  16. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,468

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    That is absolutely beautiful. The award that I would be most proud of is the Dearborn. If it passes the scrutiny of the V-8 Club it's a top notch vehicle. Yes, the A.A.C.A. Senior Grand National is nothing to sneeze at, but the Dearborn tops it in this case. Your wood looks great and I wouldn't do much except a wipe down with a damp microfiber followed up with a dry microfiber as I do on my car. Can I invite you to join the National Woodie Club? Are you sure it's polyurethane on the wood?
     
  17. 51 mercules
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 4,213

    51 mercules
    Member

    On my wooden boat I would mix 50% water with 50% vinegar in a spray bottle to clean it and pledge to polish it. seaking.jpg
     
  18. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,657

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I found a product that's designed for wood on gun stocks, furniture, and works great on automotive wood. It's called Old West Snake Oil Original Formula, and a very small amount on a rag rubbed into any wood finish really brings up the finish of anything wood I've tried it on. Been using it for 30 years now for all sorts of wood products.
    I put a few drops on an old rag and rub it into the wood. Add more as you go along for larger projects like a car. I put the rag into a ziplock baggie for storage, and just add some more drops the next time I use it. Great stuff!
    https://oldwestsnakeoil.com/
     
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  19. hotrodjack33
    Joined: Aug 19, 2019
    Posts: 4,718

    hotrodjack33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You are probably right.
    When I was partners in the cabinet shop, we finished everything in a brushing lacquer or a varnish. The go-to final sealer/polish was hand rubbed "Butcher Wax.
     
  20. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    Thank you for the compliment it’s kinda nerve wracking working around the thing especially when I swapped the water pumps out. I knew I was going to scratch something:eek:

    Not absolutely sure what is on the wood but I was just thinking that it was polyurethane since that seems to be the go to for furniture and automotive clears. It might just be varnish seeing it is a Dearborn winner, they are very persnickety about being exact. Thanks for the invitation but my wife and I already joined the Woodie Club. The one thing I didn’t know it is that I could have transferred my dads membership number to me and I would have had a super low membership number but that’s okay because my wife and I are still members.

    Another neat thing about the car is it was in the movie “Walk the Line” and they did the interior shots of them going down to Texas. So it had some interesting screen time and when we all went to the premiere of the movie dad about lost it when he saw them with feet all over the seats and Reese Witherspoon jumping around in the car :p
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2025 at 4:37 PM
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  21. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,468

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Ironically I just ordered a product from a company called Weiman, it's called "Wood Furniture Wipes" so when I get it I'll let you know how it works out.
     
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  22. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,817

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

  23. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    Yes let me know, I would really appreciate it. I’m going to try the Lemon Pledge on the interior wood to see how it does and I might try a little spot somewhere inconspicuous to see how it looks.
     
  24. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    I had some running around to do after I cut my front and backyard in 102* heat index at 9am (Grrrrrrrr) so I swung by Walmart and picked up the Pledge. I’m not to hip on the lemony smell so I got this on instead, same stuff different flavor. I’ll give it a try later on this evening to see how it works. Thanks for all the suggestions and helpful advice. Like I said this thing kinda intimidates me because I don’t want to mess anything up. image.jpg
     
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  25. You're not supposed to taste it.
     
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  26. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

  27. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 35,871

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    how did the Pledge work?
     
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  28. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 10,960

    jnaki








    Hello,
    Oh No... Pledge is for finished indoor furniture and not for outdoor weather situations. If your woody is constantly in the garage, then what you have on there is fine. Car wax is not needed for polyurethane and certainly Pledge is not an exterior protecting coat. Inside is the same. Once the polyurethane is coated, no amount of rain is going to attack that inside wood, so you are fine. No pledge is necessary. Just wipe and go...

    Polyurethane is so strong, but the key is to have the coating go into the cracks and seal up everything possible. "Water knows no boundaries..." Outside, it creeps into the cracks, so that is why it is important to make sure it seals everything.

    The wood exposed to the outside weather, like salt air and clean water wash that was apart of our weekly sailing requirements. We had to look for small nicks and dings that may have cracked the coating. Then the water seeks absorbing wood. So, if you cannot take off all of the wood and coat it 360 degrees, then stuff the liquid in all of the joints and cracks.

    Jnaki

    Leave the Pledge to minor household coffee table wipe ups, not for sealing the wood. It is only a covering solution and no way is it as strong as Carnuba Paste Wax, IF you have to wax the wood. Not necessary, but YRMV
     
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  29. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    I’m not gonna lie it was so hot today after all the yard cutting, Costco and Walmart runs, after I got up from dinner I told my wife I’m tapping out for the evening. Heck the heat index is still in the upper 90’s and it’s 10:08 my time. I’ll find out when I get up tomorrow morning turn on the air in the garage. I’m gonna do the inside for sure with it and try a spot on the lower quarter panel just to see but I think it will work out judging from what you guys are telling me. I do have the Johnson’s Paste wax I can try also so we will see!
     
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  30. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,860

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    I figured out what works best for the wood……Meguairs carnauba wax. I did the interior with the Pledge and it looks great and smells good too!!
    But I picked out a board on the quarter panel and used Pledge, Pine Sol furniture polish that dad had in the garage, Johnson’s paste wax, and Meguairs. Hands down Meguairs won for the deepest shine and ease of use. Pledge was a strong second but you had to buff it like crazy and it still had the tendency to go to a semi gloss finish but way better than the satin that it was.
     
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