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Featured Hot Rods Cheapest car brand/model to build??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Smokeshow, Jul 13, 2025.

  1. As the thread title says, what do you guys consider to be the cheapest brand/model to build with the most parts available? Yes, I have used the search function and this topic isn't covered. I have found budget build tips and ideas but nothing brand/model specific. I've been looking around and have noted quite a few inexpensive late 40's/early 50's Mopar models (4 door models from $750 to $3500). I know they are not as popular as Ford and Chevrolet and the parts availability might not be as good as the more main stream brands. Obviously I also understand the more work the owner can do to a vehicle, and not pay labor, the more budge friendly. What say you guys?
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,066

    fastcar1953
    Member

  3. Cheap is relative
    I’m a scrounger and make my own sheet metal parts.

    A t-bucket is probably the most economical “hot rod”
    The mopars mentioned make nice Taildraggers.
    Especially a business coupe.

    the best bet is have cash and a trailer ready. Find that bargain on FB marketplace.
    I’ve seen deals on model As, tri 5s …..
     
  4. Onemansjunk
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 497

    Onemansjunk
    Member
    from Modesto,CA

    I paid $85 cents for 3/8 nut, ain’t nothing cheap!
     
  5. I should have specified my hunt range a little better- Late 40's to mid 50's. I have a wife and son and want something that they can both fit in comfortably so open air cars are probably out. I'm not super picky and am fairly realistic I what I want to spend. I'm not expecting a '32 for $3000 or something silly like that. It's fun to dream but not realistic. I'm a hustler/scrounger as well and I have an eye for stuff that will clean up so I'm no stranger to hard work. One of my favorite threads on here is the "interesting craigslist/Facebook cars thread. I'm on there always seeing stuff that is a good deal or I want to build. I like that Ford you attached as well. That's totally something that's up my alley.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  6. The right car is out there.
    It’s cheapest in the long run to buy the most complete project you can
    Just have the $ and transportation figured out.
     
  7. gas man
    Joined: Dec 3, 2014
    Posts: 140

    gas man
    Member
    from socal

    If you want late 40s early 50s, and cheap I would be looking at the Ford shoebox. It sounds like this might be your first old car build and if that is the case, stay away from mopar. Go ford or chevy . Parts are easier to find and usually cheaper. Buy the most complete car you can.
     
  8. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 372

    s.e.charles

  9. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,861

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    X2 on the shoebox because almost everything is reproduced for it and you can change the motor out with readily available parts to a small motor Ford or Chevy.
     
    ***Area-51*** and winduptoy like this.
  10. jsxtreme
    Joined: Sep 3, 2024
    Posts: 79

    jsxtreme

    4 door tri-five chevy's are 1/3 the price of a 2 door. Parts are readily avalible.
     
    rottenpop, Chucky and simplestone like this.
  11. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,736

    choptop40
    Member

    49-52 Mopars are out there...restoring is more costly than buying a restored car...your call Screenshot 2025-07-14 7.28.06 AM.png
     
  12. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,996

    BJR
    Member

    It's been said before, buy the best car that you can afford. It will be way cheaper in the long run.
     
  13. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,584

    oldolds
    Member

    Whatever you buy as a first car, buy something that runs and drives. Your wife will not like that hunk of iron you paid too much money for not being used for months after you buy it.
    You also need to realize that whatever work it needs will cost you 3 times what you think. It will also take 3 times longer than you think.
    Even though parts are available in a catalog be prepared for them not being in stock or no longer available. Most parts will need to be shipped which also adds to cost and time.
     
    CSPIDY, Budget36, leon bee and 2 others like this.
  14. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 11,412

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    If I were looking for a low cost late 40’s to early 50’s car, I would definitely stick to Chevy or Ford. As mentioned, the best availability of parts for those. And, agreed on buying a complete and running car if this is your first build. Although neither of what I just mentioned, I recently bought a 50 Buick that needed a fuel pump to be a running driving car. While it was cheap and fun, parts weren’t as easily available for it. Thankfully, I didn’t really need any since it was a survivor and complete.
     
    Stock Racer likes this.
  15. Mike Lawless
    Joined: Sep 20, 2021
    Posts: 667

    Mike Lawless

    Rust is the deal breaker. A clean $6000 car is way, way, cheaper than a $2000 car that needs a bunch of rust repair, regardless of the make.
     
  16. This is too vague of a question.
    Obviously the orphan brands are going to be the best prices on cars because nobody knows what they are since They are 70 plus years old now for example when I had my Kaiser Manhattan a few weeks ago It was an awesome looking car with spot on early 1950s styling as good if not better than the big three but it took months to sell it for $1,500 bucks and it was rust-free complete and it technically could drive up onto the trailer.
    It rusted out Chevy of the same year and door count here in Southern California would go for $3,500 bucks and would have sold fairly quickly.
    The one thing is if you decide to go with an orphan car you need to get one as nice as possible because parts availability is something to consider usually the engines are actually pretty common in every car in America from the 1940s or '50s but if you're missing a piece of trim on a car that less than 300 or left in existence you're hunting for a needle in a haystack. The same goes with the soft bits If you're looking for a new windshield gasket how hard is it going to be to find the same thing goes with the door sweep or any of the other stuff. In that respect I think going with a Ford or Chevrolet might be the wiser decision because of parts availability but it is also more boring If you bring a 1949 Ford shoebox to a car show there is a good chance somebody else is going to have one. If you bring a 1951 willys arrow Ace to a car show you're probably going to be the only one.

    When we are talking about pre war vehicles that are a good value The same thing applies generally speaking but for the dollar a Model A is definitely top up the list plus it's well liked, You will never meet somebody that doesn't like a Ford Model A even the Chevy guy is like them lol (It's probably because their cars were all wood and are long gone That's another subject). If you stay away from the pricey ford roadsters and go with a Tudor sedan or Fordor And you can find a really nice car for 10 or 12 grand or if you want a project I've seen them all over the classifieds for two or three grand over the years. Heck I have seen pretty nice coupes and pickups That you could drive home for six or seven grand in relatively recent times although they sell quick at that price, The other day in San Diego I saw a 27 Model T coupe that was bone stock for sale at a museum for $6,000 bucks and it was a nice car If I would have had the extra money I probably would have went to San Diego and got it. The other plus side to a Model A or any other 28 to 48 Ford for that matter is parts availability You can get just about brand new everything for a vehicle like the Model A which means weather stripping, Chrome trim pieces, tail lights, wiring harnesses etc. I like the thrill of the hunt but when you are hunting for 80 to 100 year-old car parts it's kind of nice being able to go to a vintage parts house like CW Moss or Speedway or The early Ford store in San dimas and just get the parts you need especially the parts that are all shot after 90+ years.
     
    osage orange likes this.
  17. TexasHardcore
    Joined: May 30, 2003
    Posts: 5,540

    TexasHardcore
    Member
    from Austin-ish

    For what you're after a 49-56 Ford and 49-57 Chevy would be at the top of the list. As mentioned before, pay more now for a better vehicle. A rusty shitbox that needs everything can snowball into a full blown build. I've had way more fun in the old cars I've bought running & driving than I did the ones I had to build from the ground up. My current '56 F-100 project is the last full build I'll ever do for several reasons, but it's one that I'll hold on to forever. The next old car I get will be a running/driving car that I'll modify to my liking.
     
  18. Jack E/NJ
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 959

    Jack E/NJ
    Member
    from NJ

    > >What say you guys?> >

    If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
     
    Okie Pete and INVISIBLEKID like this.
  19. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 35,881

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    do yourself a favor and buy a car that you LIKE rather than the cheapest car. In the end you will be far happier with a car that you like instead of something almost nobody wants ( that is the main reason why it is cheap)
     
    Robdski, pigIRON63, Silva and 19 others like this.
  20. ramblin dan
    Joined: Apr 16, 2018
    Posts: 3,958

    ramblin dan

    I couldn't agree more. I can't count how many guys I know that bought something because it was cheap but found out later why it was being sold cheap. Without fail at every swap meet I vendor at there is at least one guy who will start telling me about a car they have and will always tell me what it is worth. Then they get pissed off when I tell them it's only worth what someone is going to give you for it.
     
    Okie Pete likes this.
  21. Little Wing
    Joined: Nov 25, 2005
    Posts: 7,546

    Little Wing
    Member
    from Northeast

    What kinda car ya wanna build ?? That's more important! Custom show car, drag, hotrod, Chopped sled, daily driver ??

    The core is always flexible on price depending on condition and location.

    But what you want as end result is the greatest factor in cost.
     
  22. The 52-54 Ford's seem to be the redheaded step child in the Ford line up, overlooked for many years but they have become a popular alternative to the more expensive cars that have mass appeal. I have a soft spot for them especially the coupe body as you have posted.

    The aftermarket industry hasn't paid much attention to them but slowly but surely some parts have started to be offered ,especially the sheet metal parts.

    15 years ago you were S.O.L. if you didn't possess the skills to fabricate your own.

    Personally I think they make cool hot rods & customs. HRP
     
    buddyamigo and 57Fury440 like this.
  23. Those pre tri-five Chevys like 48-54 (especially 4 doors) can be found for low dollars. You can pick up a clean running, driving car and have your way with it while you work on it.
     
    Stock Racer and osage orange like this.
  24. I like em.
    Very ez mild custom material.
     
  25. dan c
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,628

    dan c
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    i have a shoebox ford, and i think you can find a decent one for pretty cheap. i love flatheads, but that's where shoeboxes get expensive!
     
    osage orange likes this.
  26. A sbc can fix any FH issue
     
  27. Matt Dudley
    Joined: Jan 13, 2024
    Posts: 337

    Matt Dudley
    Member
    from New York

    I looked for a cheap cool classic in 2019 and ended up with a’50 Plymouth special deluxe 2dr that ran and drove nice but was rough around the edges. Parts are out there and they are reliable but the brakes while being the best that were available at the time are probably the hardest to service nowadays and you’ll have never seen anything like it unless you work on airplanes. Restoration parts are somewhat available and prices vary.

    I bought my ‘51 Plymouth in march as I was actually missing the ‘50 which I actually didn’t keep that long.

    that said. Shoebox Fords sometimes go for cheap especially if you take a 4dr discount.
     
  28. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 5,132

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    I'd look for a 49-54 Chevy pick up truck. Lot of em available for reasonable prices, plenty of replacement parts, very versatile for both cruising and hauling. Also somewhat easier to make repairs on. No matter what you decide, you are probably better off finding one that someone has done some basic repairs and has the vehicle already driveable. Then you can enjoy it while simply finishing it and upgrading whatever is still wrong with it. Being able to drive and enjoy a project while improving it goes a long way toward keeping your interest peaked..........:)
     
    GuyW, osage orange and GasserTodd like this.

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