Featured Hot Rods Cheapest car brand/model to build??

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1Ar3HbnJKX/?mibextid=wwXIfr

id drive this grandpaw ride.
Drop the back, add skirts and cool hubcaps

 

Rule #1: If you expect the wife to be involved, pick something you both like. If she doesn't like it, there won't be money, or time for you to work on it. Then, if it ever gets done, she will make excuses not to tag along. If she likes it, there is often more time and money available, and her and your son will be involved through much of the process. If the wife is not involved at the beginning, she most likely won't be involved at the end either.

Rule #2: Get the most complete car, hopefully one that runs, with the least amount of rust, you can find that meets rule #1. Make sure that new ride has a title that has matching numbers on the car, and know what makes the state, and your insurance company happy, so you will be able to drive it when its done. Do that before you drop the entry fee (buy the car). After the purchase is when you will find out quickly how good your skills actually are. We are here to advise, but you likely will have to do the job, or pay someone to do it.

Rule #3: After you buy the car then meets rules #1 and #2, expect to spend at least another $4,000 to $5,000 more money to get it safe to drive regularly. You can talk all you want, but as of 2 years ago, these are real minimum numbers it costs to make a project car road worthy.

 

Look at the dash of anything your thinking of buying. You are going to spend a lot of time staring at it,checking speed and gauges. It better be pleasing to your eye.

 

Those 49/52 Mopars and most pre mid 50's Mopars are cheap to buy because there is very little support for them parts wise. Plus if you have ever worked on them you understand that the engine compartments are rather tiny and narrow. on the Dodges and Plymouths.
The best advice I can give is do not buy an orphan car and when you see any car on Craigslist, market place or the side of the road research parts for it. Plus think ability to sell it if for some reason you give up on the project or are forced to sell it for other reasons. A Ford or Chevy may sound belly button but they are a lot easier to find used parts for and a hell of a lot easier to find after market pieces for. Plus if your fabricating skill level is on the low side someone makes and sells most every piece for engine swaps or suspension and steering upgrades or modifications.

 

What everyone else has already said!
If it's going to remain fairly stock, price out a set of common size tires, all the fluids, tuneup parts, belts and hoses for typical era cars. Check on door seal/windlace availability and knock off any you can't find.

If you are limited to buying locally, check into local shops for the stuff you aren't equipped for like alignment, radiator/gas tank repair, machining, etc. If you can do it all, great. If there is a local good general (old car) shop, ask about what they know about and if they can inspect, also.

 

4 Dr Belair are 210 can make a nice driver

 

I like the idea of driving a rare car but I prefer building cars that are supported by the aftermarket. Case in point, I met a guy at a car thing the other day and he just spent 17 years restoring a 69 AMX (a favorite of mine). Why so long? Hard finding parts. 69 Camaro, you can build the entire car (including the body) from a catalog. Not a hot rod but it illustrates a point. Some HAMB friendly cars are supported by the aftermarket and some are not. I have a friend on here building an Essex Rockney 3 window hot rod Cool as hell and rare. Hard to find bits for,

 

If it wasn't for the fact that I already have my cheap 41 Cadillac Sedan project car that does run and drive I would pick a 56-57 Bel Air four door hardtop as a project.

My basic plans are to put in a new serviceable interior and a carb rebuild and strip the paint off the booger... Maybe a cheap quickie flat paint job or just let it lightly rust to match the hood... and i'm not re chroming it. Going to keep an eye out for some cheap white wall toppers.

I get a lot of thumbs up when I drive it around as it is.

 

If you are buying a starter car, buy something you like, but is also somewhat popular. Offloading a 40's Mopar might be tough. Everyone likes early Fords, even the less popular ones. I would rather sell a 38 Ford sedan than a nicer 47 Plymouth, for example, because the audience will be much larger.

 

Currently driving a '57 Chevy and working on a '54 Nash. Anything you need or want is available for the Chevy and easy to get, but the prices for decent cars is high. Even 4 door sedans as drivers are up there. The days of getting a cheap driver 4 door Tri-5 are gone. Also, new parts are available but not exactly cheap, so if you buy a car that needs a lot of stuff, it's going to get pricey quickly.

As for the Nash, they are dirt cheap to buy. Like, give-away priced. My 37K original mile car I bought at auction last year for $2300 all-in. But almost nothing is made for it. I got wheel cylinders and a master for it new but only because that stuff interchanged with other stuff. You really have to want one to build one.

Also, I feel like there are no good "drivers" for sale. All I see is restored cars that are asking a ton of money, or big time projects. Sometimes a nice car that's been parked for decades. But very, very rarely a car that's maybe a bit worn but reliable and truly sorted and roadworthy.

 

The Rockne was actually a model offered by Studebaker for a couple of years.

 

**funny you should mention a shoe box, I think they are pretty cool looking and have considered them in the past**

I'd totally be up for a more door, especially if it's clean and solid.

* totally understand that. I used to be focused on only Chrysler products when I was younger but now and totally open to Ford and Chevy**

**I understand all these rules, especially #1. I like sending my wife listings and she sends me some as well from time to time. Her biggest requirements are nice interior and eventually A/C . I learned that lesson with some slightly newer ot mopars that she didn't like and I should have included her in the initial decision making. **

 

Chevy will have better parts interchange than ford, ford had a really interesting way of making running changes to parts through a model run whereas Chevy generally spread parts throughout models as well as makes

 

I know you said 40's - 50's, but if I was wanting to build a car on the cheap, with good parts availability and was family friendly I'd look for a Model A roller chassis, which you can find complete with engine and trans for not much money at all. Then pick up a Model T tub which they made probably a million of and are very affordable depending on condition, and marry the 2 together. Lower it and hop up the banger and have a blast with the family. They're great for going to local shows, out for the evening or Sunday drives; add a Mitchell overdrive for highway cruising. You'll be hard pressed to come up with something more affordable, more plentiful, or more fun.

 

How much does your geography/ location come into play when searching for a vehicle.
Here in the North West , old pickups and early 50’s Chevys and Pontiacs are still plentiful, and most are still affordable. Model A,s etc, not so much. Rust being the culprit .
Like most others have stated, buy a car that you like, that you can afford, and that leaves a little bit of a jingle in your pocket to make some repairs and upgrades as you enjoy it. We all have our opinion on what is affordable and likable, but in the end you have to please yourself and your family.

 

Lowest entry cost is a 4 dr sedan. I agree buy the best car you can, save your money and be ready to purchase when you find one that meets your desire. Also think the 49-54 Chevy are a good option, as well as the 49-51 or 52-54 Fords. The 52-54 are going to be the lower cost. While the original 6 cylinder cars may not be the fastest, they will let you have fun driving and remember back when they were newer cars these went cross country and daily drivers. They can be reliable, with proper preventative maintenance and tune-ups performed on consistent basis.

Another thing to consider is the early-mid 60s sedans. These have more modern drivetrain and chassis. A 4 door is still pretty cheap, and with some simple suspension lowering and cleaning up they can be a great good looking cruiser.

 

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/castle-rock-1965-oldsmobile-delta-88/7864263328.html
5K seems to be the lower end for anything that is complete. You can go lower, but they tend to have rust, taken apart and/or title issues. You have to decide if 5K plus another 2K for bringing it up to safe and reliable is within your family budget.
When I say 2K that's tires, belts and hoses, fluids, brakes and a few hundred extra for stuff unique to the exact car. That's parts only, no labor.

 

This isn't a car for sale, but a good example of what I was talking about. Inexpensive, best parts availability, easiest build even for a 1st build, great for getting the kids involved and helping, and fun, fun fun.

 

**I like the idea of an A/T hybrid, but I'm trying other stay away from an open car just so I can drive it in all types of weather. Plus I'm a tall dude (6'3" and I dont know how those are for the tall folks? )**

** I live just south of Portland. That Olds you sent the add on is a clean looking car for sure! But it's slightly too new for me but sure looks like a great start**

**Agreed... I'm certainly open to the idea of a cool 4 door/crew cab car. **

 

I have been poking around on fb/craigslist and have noticed some 4 door Pontiacs and Buicks from the tri-5 era as mentioned up thread. How are those for parts? I actually like the look of the Pontiac fins better than the Chevrolet cars of the same era. Are these Pontiac's considered a "orphan car" with parts availability issues?

 

Dang, my adhd is killing me now. Currently on FB hunting model T tubs

 

I've been watching this car languish on Portland Market place for a while. I know the interior would certainly pass the wife test ...now it would be a matter of what's up with the brakes and the engine. Plus it looks like the front bumper is smoked. I dont know what parts are like for this?


https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:8821dbc5-3e02-426a-bc04-52281dd9c172

 

There are certain models that bring such big money that even as total rust buckets the initial cost is huge before you even turn a wrench. Then there are those models that even solid complete cars sell for less, and will be cheap to build. But it comes down to something in between where you pay a reasonably cheap price, but the car is desirable when finished, vs. buying and building something dirt cheap that nobody wants once it's done.
I like to think there are cars out there that can be purchased reasonably, and once finished they are desirable enough to not be totally upside down in them. I've started with cars that were under $2,000 for my last three builds, and one was under $600. Another was $1500, but came with enough spare parts I sold to make it zero when I started. All three are popular cars, but not so popular as to garner high values as is before being done.
My three are a old Austin sedan from the late 1930's, a 1939 Chev Coupe, and a 1963 Falcon Futura 2dr. sedan. I sold the Falcon for a profit a few years after finishing it, but still have the other two, with no plans to sell either. Including purchase price I have $10k in my Austin, $5k in my '39 Chev coupe, and had $5k in the Falcon when I sold it for $11k. But I do 100% of my builds, and use junkyard parts, so costs are low.

 

I've learned to do my due diligence as to parts availability before buying...

If you're not buying a Ford or Chevy, you'll have parts issues and even with those some years are better than others. While many other makes have good support for basic mechanical parts, oddball bits and trim parts can get pretty difficult to find.

My vote will go to '41 through '48 Fords. These cars tend to be overlooked for some reason, I don't know why. Pretty decent parts well for most years, although the '47-48 have the most, and lots of aftermarket upgrade stuff. And prices aren't crazy. If you want to haul the family around, a long door coupe or sedan will have plenty of room for everyone (short door coupes have no backseat) in comfort. Nice restored or very clean original stockers show up for around $10K regularly, running driving 'patinaed' all-originals sometimes even less (4 dr sedans). Up the budget and 'finished' hot-rodded versions start popping up. If you're looking for a project, I see decent ones in the $1500 to $5K range regularly. I'll admit to being a bit biased, but I've owned my avatar for over ten years now and it's a keeper.

 

I would love to find a "patina'd" old ford. A more door is totally fine with me as I want to be able to drive it to swap meets and estate sales so more doors fits more stuff My ideal car would be be one stuffed in a barn untouched so I can pull it out and go through everything without trying to figure out someones past modifications but I know that cars of this age are hard to find with no/ correctly done modifications.

 

Chuckle.

 

Family friendly
Doesn’t need paint

it’s dang near perfect.