Featured Hot Rods Cheapest car brand/model to build??

I'll throw out something different; a Studebaker Lark. The Studebaker Driver's Club is really active, and parts are pretty cheap & plentiful. Anyone that thinks they can't find stuff for them has never looked. They're good little cars that are easy to work on, and since Stude guys have always been cheapskates, the values have been reasonable for the buy-in. Find a V-8 car.

 

Even the Hawks can be bought cheap. I have seen nice Hawks ready to drive for $15 to $20,000 or less.

 

48 Chevies are reasonable, plenty of parts available, easy to street rod, lots of room in the front seat, great rear seat for grandkids, big trunk space. Just make sure the grille is presentable as it's an expensive item. A great car for going down the road.

 

This is so true. I might add, make damned sure the car has all the legal paperwork your state requires.

 

I got married 1st time because , I was thinkin it was cheaper to build one than buy one finished . Huge mistake ! Give it plenty of thinkin , labor and materials are expensive

 

That's the very definition of family hauler...but my family isn't that large

 

Got room to stretch out.

 

As much as I love my T roadster, it's small, and it's been tweaked in every direction to give me as much space as possible, plus I'm a couple inches shorter than you. They can be super fun but they are not an all weather family car. If you want a 50's car, stick to that.

As for tri-5 Pontiacs and Buicks, the Buicks are pretty and have the legendary Nailhead engine but any engine or transmission swap requires building a rear suspension basically from scratch since they have a torque tube from the factory, and unless you find a rare stick shift version, you're kinda stuck with the shitty Dynaflow unless you're up for a whole bunch of work. Not a cheap car to do.

But the 55-57 Pontiac is a great choice, they have a really good rearend with open driveshaft, and are almost all V8/Hydramatic cars, or 3 on the tree which is also nice. Pontiac engines are all fairly similar from 55 to the late 70's so parts for them aren't too bad (some big running changes, but not like a Ford that had 4 or 5 completely different engine families in that same timeframe), all the glass interchanges with Chevy and they sell for half or less of an equivalent Chevy.

They're different enough to be different, without being a total orphan.

 

How are the Pontiacs under neath in terms of suspension/drive train? Basically the same as their tri 5 big brother?

 

Hello,

It is not the lowest cost old car for a hot rod project. But a car that is in a stage where you are able to pick away at it on your level of abilities. Money or otherwise. It is the almost standard new guy question. It is not the cheapest but what you actually like. I like looking around the HAMB classified for various stages of cars for sale. But in terms of levels of what they are or how much you are willing to work is the question.

The top two are within your price range. More work is required for the model a RPU but, you have a popular RPU. In the same style but years newer. Another truck/car project that is a little more complete but still needs work, time and money. The ranchero is handy as a car and open bed truck. So, there is that.

Now, if you think about time and money, $3600 is $300 a month in cost spread out over a year. ( $300 a month is $75 a week or about $10 dollars a day. Almost the same as a lunch at McDonalds )$9500 is around $790 per month. If one has a lump of money , then you can add to that amount per month to get a car project is farther along to rolling status or finishing for road travel. Remember, your time is valuable and so is your enjoyment. Paying a little more initially, gets you farther along in a build or goal of a hot rod to cruise around.

Jnaki

In looking at the HAMB classified, it shows various costs for various builds. Some think higher cost due to the finished build of a particular model. But, it is what you like, not how much it costs.

We have always liked the smaller sedans. When we were looking for a car for our son, we looked at several small to mid size cars in various stages of finish. If we had more time, this Ford Falcon would have been a consideration.

We had saved since he was born and the piggy bank was flowing with coins and cash to offset any used car purchase. Then we would have worked to make it a reliable running teenage car with a nice paint and wheels. Plus other items he needed.

But, in recent HAMB classified, this one was the best car in the whole listings. But, alas, it was priced right and sold. My wife and I would have purchased that small station wagon if we had been looking for another car.

It was at a stage that the cost was offset with the great looking build and we also like small station wagons... The rims would have been changed to American Racing 5 spokes with blackwall tires. Given a slight lowered rake and now, ready for those coastal drives we like to do as many times as we can... This scenario versus a new Toyota for $22000... no contest in this arrangement... YRMV

 

The frame and suspension on the Pontiac is completely different than the Chevy, to the point that even though they share a lot of body panel stampings, the floors are different. The Pontiac isn't a bad design, but there's no suspension parts interchange between the two.

 

Found this solid 46 ford coupe for 3k in Michigan

https://www.facebook.com/share/1DxdArcWSL/

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/1Ac2hGPWtq/?mibextid=wwXIfr
perfection located near Portland


Plymouth
https://www.facebook.com/share/1EQQBh7n5t/?mibextid=wwXIf

57 Chevy
https://www.facebook.com/share/15qfED9eJg/?mibextid=wwXIfr

ford wagon
https://www.facebook.com/share/1B745rwPaf/?mibextid=wwXIfr

 

That Edsel ad is a year old, and they needed the money back then, but it's worth a try to message them. Don't say "Is this available?" though.

That Plymouth looks cool, but I'd check for rust.

The Chevy seems okay.

The Ford wagon has significant rust in the floor, front and back. It probably has more rust.

Does he want a crusty cruiser, or would the Chevy be a "money pit"?

 

Here's what looks to be a strong survivor (still a project) Cadillac that's ~700 miles away for $2,800.

 

what you do rather than ask this question to strangers all over the country is look in whatever for sale ads for vintage cars you have in your area and find something you like at a price you can afford.

 

Its not in your year range but with a wife and kids a 2 door Model a sedan.
You can move the seat back to fit you and it has a back seat.
With no fenders on a boked A frame maybe channeled and a SBC and a auto trans you can still build one fairly cheap. and all the parts are available for the most part .
if I still had kids to haul that is what id look for .

My advice is save up some cash find a classic that is popular and pay what its worth and get something near done or some thing you know you can finish easy or fast . Then even if it was a bit pricey it will still be a desirable car if you decide to sell itars ago is still not .
get something you can get parts for unless you want a project and lts of walkng swap meets searching market place ads and all that .

Life is short and a project I bought 30 years ago and its still not started an when you get older you loose ambition , drive and its harder to crawl all over them especially if you do not have a hoist . I thought Id have PU runni g in three months LOL Then when you do get it done your aging out on enjoying it .
My dad got his A PU sort of drivable and he was 80 by then and had no desire to keep working on it and not desire to drive it and wanted to spend the time he has left doing other stuff .

I was looking at a 67 Chevelle project the other day and was really thinking I wanted it . then I thought it would take me 5 years to even get it going and Id be bette roff buying a running one that I could make mine with and actually enjoy .

I saw a nice Studebaker a while back that was not rusted and ran and was decent and I almost bought it but then realized I did not need it but if I had nothing else it would have been fun to play with.

 

I wouldn't do that without improving the crash safety.

 

This.... @Smokeshow, what's your budget, and do you want a running, driving car? Or is a major project something you can handle? Beware, most of those you see for sale is because somebody got in over their head... don't let that be you. And don't set your max price too low; I'd go over by at least $2K, sometimes this will turn up a much nice car that will make stretching the finances worthwhile.

Personally, I prefer Craigs List as you can enter max price, year range and more to filter the choices. That '63 Fairlane turns up there, and with more pics to boot. I'd also look a '61-65 T-birds. They are gas hogs and some parts are expensive, but pretty well supported in the aftermarket and make great comfortable cruisers.

The price on that '63 almost seems too good to be true. The good is a very nice interior, all trim is present and looks good and it runs/drives. Fix the rust in the rear quarters, replace the tweaked rear bumper and have MAACO blow a $1K paint job onto it (you doing the prep) and you'll have a very nice little car. Keep in mind if there's rust you can see, there's probably some you can't, look it over closely...

The 'bad'. The '62-65 Fairlanes are somewhat orphans mechanically, specifically two things. The front suspensions on these are unlike anything else Ford built in that era. Parts for them are available, but you'll need to hit up a 'Specialty' vendor (with their special prices) to find everything. And the engine/trans... I don't doubt it's a 260 as the 'dress' looks correct, but I'd be extremely surprised if it's a C4. The C4 didn't come out until '64 and wasn't used behind the 260. They got the 2-speed 'Fordomatic' and that is a real orphan. If it doesn't shift three times and/or has a Lo/D indicator, that's what it is. Ford only built this trans from '59 to '64 then discontinued it along with the 260. It may be tough to rebuild when needed... The good news is a later model (65-up) 289/302 and C4 is almost a complete drop-in, with just some minor fiddling (with a bonus of more zip). You can't use the later trans with the old motor unless you can track down a one-year-only '64 C4 bellhousing; these are a bit rare. The later motor will not bolt up to that trans.

One last thing to look at. Check the rear axle at the pinion seal. If it's leaking much or if there is ANY looseness in the pinion, you probably have bad pinion bearings. On the early 8" axles Ford didn't make them quite big enough and the '62 to '64 are known for this. Ford upgraded them late in '64 or early '65. Ford built these up until 1980 so finding a good used one shouldn't be tough, although they're not as cheap as they used to be. Probuilt rebuilds can be had for about $500.

Good luck!

 

**I like this coupe but it's a little bit more work than I have time for**

**dude I've been eyeing that edesel! I tried to talk my wife into it the other day **

** I understand by asking others, I'm going to get a myriad of answers. But I have gotten myself into trouble in the past by not asking for others input so I figured I would ask on here to double check myself **

**I appreciate the info! I will probably pass on the fairlane. I agree with you that waiting to get a driver car will save me time/money in the long run for sure! I did that a few years ago with a '66 F 100 I bought and fixed some light things. I got to enjoy it right way and had lots of fun memories in that truck. When I sold it I make 2k so if I include my time, I basically broke even **

 

the cheapest is usually someone's almost finished project of a car that is not overly popular. You can sometimes pick up a vehicle that is running/drivable but needs finish work for half of what you would put into the project if starting
with a virgin vehicle. Remember parts bought 5 years ago were usually much cheaper.

 

what kind of car / truck or make / model are you looking for ?

also what does the budget allow ?

 

I pulled a 57 4 door Fairlane 500 out of a pasture . Rebuilt the 312 . Put a t5 in it . Disk brakes and a power booster . Wiring harness It’s been the most fun car I’ve ever owned . We load it up with friends or Family and hit the road . It rides like a cloud . Wasn’t my first choice but my Wife liked it when she saw it . So keep that in mind . If your Wife likes it you’re good to go . Lol

 

The cheapest car is going to be the one the best condition, most complete.

I bought my ‘51 Plymouth for $5k with a solid body; decent interior, decent chrome and acceptable paint. A car that was just a little bit rougher but exactly the same was $3,500.

 

Looking for a budget friendly car to build...most likely a 4 door. Something with good parts availability and not an absolute basket case (like I have been known to buy in the past). Budget probably is 5k

 

This sounds like a good time! Those low buck cars are often the most fun. And yes, when there is buy in from the significant other, it certainly makes things much easier.

 

The OP's question is a bit of a misnomer and it's hard to pin down.

When someone says "build", my thought immediately goes to "full build". Meaning the chassis is fully refurbished, suspension components are either swapped out, upgraded or new original style. The running gear is not some "good running" engine and transmission found on marketplace, but is rebuilt or in peak condition. The body is ultimately immaculate with all rust repaired, no dents or dings, and excellent paint. Chrome is all at least 8/10. Interior is fresh and complete. No missing headliners or door panels, or Mexican blankets. A "full build" should be of sufficient quality to at least hold its own in an indoor show.

There is also the consideration that more desirable cars and body styles have a higher initial buy-in than others. Sure, it's cheaper to build the SBC in a 55 Chevy than the Y block in the comparative 55 Ford. But the 55 Chevy is going to cost 2-3x what the 55 Ford costs in comparative condition because the Chevs are that much more popular and desirable. Additionally, popular makes and models will have a more robust aftermarket, which drives down build cost, versus having to pay a premium for good used parts, NOS, or the labor to repair old and worn out components. Again, tri-fives are a great example. Where you can buy new stampings for quarters, fenders, doors, etc. Whereas many makes and model will require you to repair or make new parts instead of simply replacing and refitting.

A rod is always going to be cheaper to build than a post war car, especially Model As. Where there is sufficient supply to meet the demand and the buy-in prices are still reasonable. Here you can do a full build for a reasonable price, in no small part because there is just less of everything and the nature of the traditional rod is more spartan.

Anything that has been swapped with a SBC or SBF is going to be less expensive than refurbishing an obsolete powertrain. However, what you save in money you will likely offset in time spent reengineering a different drivetrain in a car that was not its native habitat.

Of course, if you're not picky, it is ALWAYS cheaper to buy a done car than it is to build one to your liking.

 

Excellent and thoughtful response to my original post. I get the wording I used is a bit vague and also can vary based upon personal perspective and also preference and other external environmental factors. I actually did this on purpose to solicit responses. Not in a trolling way but I wanted to hear others feedback to give myself something to think about and to raise questions in my mind I would not have thought about if I had not asked this question. Your response brings me a lot to think about. What is cheaper long run... a cheaper initial buy in if the project car is a smoking deal or do I pay more for a more "popular" model with a higher buy in? Lots to chew on and definitely can be swayed either way depending on which vehicle currently being considered.

In terms of my wording of the term "build", I was envisioning a light build. Basically get a vehicle road worthy- go through all systems and renew and fix to get fully functional. revive/fix the interior to make functional/comfortable. Then make some small changes to "hot rod" the vehicle a bit. Hop up the engine with some basic bolt on parts, suspension mods for handling/looks. I really want to find something that has a good percentage of original paint so I don't have to paint it. I actually prefer the "patina" look over fresh paint as long as it's not too rusty. There is a fine line between patina and "trashy" so that's aways a consideration.

In terms of welding/body work... I understand there will most likely be some rust with any car this age and I'm ok with doing some small repairs to flat areas. I just dont have the skills to undertake a full body off to replace the missing 3 inches of the tub but I can fix some things here and there.

 

@Smokeshow that reply sounds like you've got a decent handle on what it takes.
Your description is going to be advertised as runs, but bring a trailer if the seller is honest.
As far as rust, it's almost always the bottom inch, which ain't flat! It should give you a chance to improve shaping, though.
autotempest will show you all the sites, but the big car ones won't have much. It will be easy to check FB CL, CT though. Gather the money, have a truck and trailer or access, and be ready to jump when both you and the wife see the ONE.

 

49-52 GM Fleetline. The 4 doors look as cool as the 2 doors.