I'm usually the biggest naysayer for frame swaps, due to the fact that they usually look like total crap. However, I am always looking for a good way to incorporate late model stuff to old bodies. I was at a light tonight and an older Ford Ranger was sitting next to us and I told the wife that ot looked about the same size as my 36 pickup. I went home and looked it up and it was 1/2" shorter. That would be negligible. Curb weight is about the same as a 35-40 Ford. Track width is the only thing I think might be wonky. 1936 Ford Front Track : 55.5 in | 1410 mm. Rear Track : 58.3 in | 1480 mm. Ford Ranger Front Tread Width 58.6 +3.1" Rear Tread Width 57.3 -1.00" https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-dimensions/#gsc.tab=0 Check out the 6' bed single cab, 1998-2011. They are really plentiful around here. I have a bunch of cabs and spare parts laying around. Anyone tried this?
The ‘98+ coil spring rangers are the only ones that I would consider as the TIB models you probably won’t get low enough without major $$$. I don’t know if DJM is still making drop beams but even if they are, they are spendy. however 3” of track width in the frame might be hard to hide.
Ian Russel subbed a front half of a ranger frame and suspension under his buddies 46-48 Ford coupe . Then put parallel leaf springs kit under the rear .
I defionitely wouldn't cut the chassis. My thought process is swapping it to get the late model drivetrain, along with a modern fuel tank etc. I have always wanted a 4WD 35-36 pickup. Not a monster truck, just something that looked originbal, but with a modern drivetrain. Something I could run to the landfill in. You love out in the sticks, you know how much you use a truck. My old 2002 is getting a little tired these days.
There was actually a kit or a company doing this at one time.They made a slightly extended fiberglass '36 cab. Guy here locally had one for a while. I never got a chance to look at it up close, so now idea how well it all worked
If you are thinking 4x4, you may want to check the track width of a 4x4 chassis. Its probably a different width then a rear drive chassis (could be better, or worse)! A 3" wider track width will put the outside edge of the front tire right at the edge of the fender opening. Wider fenders could correct that, but it may also be possible to gain some additional clearance with different backspacing, and wheel width, on the front wheels. The track listed width is made with whatever the standard wheel width and offset the frame was designed for. Often the track width of optional offered wheel widths & offsets is not considered in the listed track width. Another thing, that 1" narrower rear track width may put the inside of the rear tires against the bed side, or frame rail. Many old pickups don't have a lot of clearance between the inside of the tire sidewall and the bed/frame.
Gene, the track width is the same on the 4x4 as the 2wd. The most common rear end used in the 35-40 Ford is the same width as the Ranger, give or take a 1/2". I have a couple of different plans for the cabs I have sitting around. I have a set of big truck fenders I can use, which are a little larger than the pickup. They look identical though.
I don't know about the 35-40 Ford big truck fenders, but the big truck Dodge fenders usually have a much larger radius and a much larger wheel opening to accommodate the larger diameter tires. The actual outward spacing of the fenders may not be any different between the big truck fenders and the 1/2 ton fenders, however, simply adding extra material between the fenders and the hood sides could also solve the width issue, if there is one.
They are basically the same but bigger. They do have a larger radius to accommodate the bigger wheels. It's something I have been pondering for a while. I have 3 sets of big truck fenders and no big truck....
I'm also interested in this stuff. One thing I've wondered about is how the track width is measured. If the factory wheels are somehow used in the measurement, wouldn't wheel mounting surfaces without wheels be a better comparison point? And how does the location of the tires inside the fender affect the swap? Most newer vehicles place the outer wheel edge close to the outer lip of the fender. This is a fuel economy, aerodynamic thing while old round fender stuff have the wheels tucked closer to the middle of the fender, about in the area of the tallest part of the rounded fender top. I'm not sure published track widths are the best numbers to use to pick a frame for swapping.
I have a bunch of crazy ideas. I have the big truck fenders and running boards, which are half step boards. I have thought about building a giant utility truck for towing, snatching cars out of fields etc. I would build it to look like a 1936 Tow truck and use the boom as a winch. Add a generator and a gas welder. Use a later dually axle under it.
I like it! Wide 5's up front, painted steel wheels, bias plys. Widen the front fenders to fit the correct looking tires/wheels. I hate positive offset wheels. It would be a fun project.
If I do the tow truck, I’ll use the original big truck chassis. Sid Drapal (Nostalgia Sid) said that a late 80’s Ford F250 spindle will bolt up to the stock 36 big truck axle with a slight ream. No need to widen the fenders that way.
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