Does anyone make degree shims for traverse spring front suspension? Been looking but can't seem to find any. Problem is aftermarket crossmember with plenty of clearance at rear of spring but looking like it will contact crossmember at front.
These are available through several different suppliers and will solve your problem. As for shims, you might try a truck alinement shop. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143323683266?msockid=2eb581e3744a6a013635943875b26bf3
Already have the adjustable perches . Issue is with front side of spring rubbing inside of crossmember. Wanting to tilt spring back a little.
As was posted above: You can get various degree truck shims up to 4” width, and just trim off and use the thick end. Drill a new hole for the center bolt. Most truck alignment shops have a 5 gal. bucket of take-offs from caster changes. Probably free for the asking. They are made in steel and aluminum if it matters. Most truck parts stores will have NIB.
I think the adjustable perch will allow for different spring length variations, but I don't see how they adjust caster.
I may not be reading your description correctly. It reads to me like you have Gap between the rear vertical wall of crossmember and spring and No space on the front side. That reads to me like the Aftermarket crossmember center hole isn't on center. Another issue could be the vertical walls are Not 90 degrees to the Top Plate. Maybe I need more Coffee to get my head around this. How about a photo or 2 for this Old Silverback? Under "Normal" conditions you never use wedge shims when mounting a Buggy Spring. Probably why you can't find them.
^^^^^ I was thinking along similar thoughts. Something isn’t right. But I just went along with op’s request. “The customer is always right”
Why would you need to lay the spring back some when you have adjustable perches? I can see you might need to move the axle, probably rearward, in order to align the spring to the perches in order to avoid binding though. Edit. Just seen the pics. The spring needs to go back some. Will slotting the center hole in the crossmember help? You could put a piece of steel stock, 1/4 square on the front of the spring to cock it back, as a test? The hairpins or whatever might need adjusting shorter though. Chris
Stock wishbone, split bones, hairpins? What would happen if axel wasn’t secured to any of the above? In other words. Would the spring lay back under relaxed conditions?
Adjusting the hairpins with adjustable perches only moves axle not spring. I was thinking a small degree shims between top of spring and crossmember might work.
If your spring center pin head is in the center hole of the crossmember, then I would bet that hole is off center to the front. As Johnny Gee mentioned, Disconnect the shackles on both ends and just bolt the spring in place. If it doesn't center between the walls find out why. Any kind of shim isn't going to be your answer.
About 5" of flat bar a grinder and a drill and a few minutes of time can make you any shim you want to angle your spring back . Id first make sure the hole is centered or if you can slot it to reposition the spring in the cross member. Sounds like your cross member is not welded in at the correct angle and your trying to compensate for it slightly Guys are not understanding your not trying to change caster but trying to get the spring to Not interfere in the cross member.
I'll go out on a limb here being I have a little extra time. I think we all know this but often forget to include it in our search for problems. EVERYTHING to do with suspension travel no matter how short or long moves on an Arc if it's anchored on one end. I doubt anything past your spring contact problem has created the issue. 4-bar, Hair pins or split bones only Locate the Axle. Poor adjustment or Arc swing can load the spring but for it to make contact with the front wall the center bolt should be out of socket or Sheered off at the head of bolt letting again move forward. Were it me I'd be doing Nutz-n-Bolt investigating and take the "make-a-shim" idea and put it on the shelf for now.
I see a lot of welds and if I'm not mistaken the crossmember is really leaning back. Have you measured your wheelbase on both sides of the car? I believe something else is going on with your front end. I would step back and start taking some measurements to figure out what is really wrong. A shim is just a band aid!
I agree with woodiewagon46. I believe your problem is a Result of a separate issue but I'm not here judging your chassis, just trying to help determine why you think you need shim.
The Jalopy Journal
