1952-59 Ford Coyote into 55 fairlane

Hello Guys/Gals,

I am doing research on how I can gen 2 coyote swap for my 1955 Fairlane (my avatar). Would anyone have any insight or recommendations on what would be needed. I am new to Fords and V8s but have done several engine swaps on my Hondas. I also got the original 272 y Block running so Im pretty good with a wrench. I am hearing that I would need to change the k member, but I am not experienced when comes to the fords suspension as it blew my mind it doesn't have shock towers. I would like to do the suspension first as she is a sheer beast to drive with manual steering and brakes. I would ***ume i could knock-out the steering and suspension with an independent Suspension (please correct me if I am wrong). I am here to learn so I apologize if my lingo is not up to par. I did see a gentleman on YouTube do it to a 57 and she fit but doesn't show you really how. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. God Bless

 

Since you're new to Fords, I'll ask a few questions. What exactly are you referring to as a "Coyote"? a 5.0 or a 4.6?
Any fitment info you find from the '57 you mentioned will not relate to your '55. The frame, suspension, steering are all completely different. A 4.6 will fit into a '57, but not anything older without major modification or replacement of the front clip. I honestly don't know about the fitment of the 5.0. Coyote. I've seen many old school 5.0s in 55-56.
Whatever specific engine you are referring to, I'd check with Ron Francis Wiring to see if they offer an engine conversion harness specifically designed for that engine/transmission, unless you are an electrician.
My Avatar has a 4.6 dohc, the engine and ****** have 93 wires coming off it to the computer.

 

I am referring to the gen 2 coyote 2015-2017 in f-150 or mustang. I have emailed Power by the Hour and received a reply that its easiest is to change the front K member. I am just awaiting his reply on a list. I looked the site you listed and I do see he offers a wire harness but I was planning on using the oem engine harness. Would you have any idea what K member would fit a 55

 

I love the coyote idea! It's on my wish list lol. So, I believe, the coyote is a variation from the modular 4.6l that Texas was referring too. It's a super wide motor. In my 54 it will not fit unless I do a complete mustang ii front stub. Right now I have a 5.0 out of a 93 thunderbird. It's really reliable and it's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Tons of info on here. I kept it efi starts up first crank everytime. Keep us posted on your car!

 

I just came from a car show and a guy had a Coyote stuffed into a '40 Ford....and it was stuffed! Anything involving a Coyote into a '50s car will require some serious fabrication. Don't know if there're any 'kits' out there, but I doubt it. Coyote motors are ultra wide so there'll be master cylinder/steering box issues for sure! Maybe EPS will help? Here's my EPS installation article.......https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/...-54-ford.526435/?post_id=4739217#post-4739217

Also, ajracing9 has some good insight. An entire front clip may be warranted in this case. Just that alone would require some pretty good fabrication skills. He has pretty much what I have in my '54. '93 5.0/AOD combo with factory EFI. Dead nuts reliable, fast and I stand outside the car, turn the key and it fires first crank everytime! Easy to install, tons of available parts and still cheap to acquire. Maybe you should look in that direction for the time being and hold off on the Coyote swap for now until you've gained a little more experience/skills. Been there, done that, myself. Just my $.02.

 

This link https://www.vanguardmotorsales.com/vehicles/3492/1955-ford-fairlane-restomod Will show you what would be involved step by step, hope you have the big bucks to do this.

 

I was told in the HAMB that I couldn't do a mustang front clip, is this true? Ive seen a few 50's fords with a coyote swap and just looks like it supposed to be there. I will look into the 93 thunderbird swap that you guys are referring too but im pretty firm on coyote especially after i told to have 25K to build the y block from a shop here in Orlando called powered by ford. I have been looking at the mustang front ii sub as well is this the same as a k member? Sorry the lingo is different with these older cars.

 

yeah I got my inspiration from this 1955 Ford Fairlane | RK Motors Cl***ic Cars and Muscle Cars for Sale

 

is this the cross member I would need?

Mustang II Crossmember Kit for Coil Overs or ShockWaves

 

Yes, the terms used for the front frame are different. A K Member was a 60's Chrysler term and used on the unibody cars that didn't have a full frame and just bolts in. You sometimes needed to swap out the K Member to change engine families, like to put a big block in a Dart or something of that matter. Fox body Mustangs have a similar design and the name carried over as a term used to describe the drop out part that supported the engine and suspension, it just bolts in and is fairly easy to change. Our Fords from the 50's do not have a drop out frame member like this, they use a full body welded frame. There is a stub frame that requires cutting the frame completely off just in front of the firewall and welding the new frame half to the original frame. Usually this new frame piece requires a more modern (not necessarily better) front suspension system like a Mustang 2 rack and pinion, control arms, etc. Fat Man Fabrications used to be a major supplier of these frame stubs but I seem to remember they were a victim of covid? I will attach a picture of an aftermarket Fox Mustang K Member and a front frame stub. Hope this makes sense! Mark

 

thank you so much Sir. So If i am understanding this correctly I would need a stub welded in at the firewall going forward, then the k member gets bolted to that which changes the suspension to IFS? If this is correct what stub would I need ***uming i use the k member link i posted? Our fords not being a drop out frame is the reason you see ppl doing 20k ch***is?

 

No, the stub frame would take the place of the K Member so to speak. It would be what you welded the motor mounts to for the Coyote. The 50's Fords are already IFS stock (independent front suspension). Yes, if you replaced the whole frame the new frame would be where you attached the Coyote mounts to in much the same way as the stub frame. The stubs used to be around $1,000 , don't know what they would run today so probably a much cheaper alternative to a new frame. That brings up the back half of the frame, there is not much room for big tires back there so you might want to consider that if you are planning big horsepower. The 50's Chevy and Chrysler guys are much in the same boat for the rear. In the front the Coyote engine is just really wide compared to some others. Hot Rods are never easy or everyone would do it! Mark

 

This one’s in a 56 wagon…Alston ch***is ..pretty big buck car that looks stock except for wider stock rims.

 

Speedway motors has been supplying swap mounts and suspension parts for over Six decades, you may want to call them and talk to a Tech for advice. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/?gad...KPSLaL910a2NGSnQSzU55A5VI9j3LRtUaAr8XEALw_wcB

 

This might be fun in your '55 instead of the Coyote. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=1162851425876630&set=a.551504640344648 The Godzilla is narrower than the Coyote. https://www.holley.com/blog/post/ford_godzilla_swaps_made_easy/

 

Yes, I have heard that Godzilla being a pushrod motor is smaller than a Coyote and makes gobs of torque! Fun for sure!

 

Just wanted to add a couple things to this thread then I will shut up! I will attach a picture of a Chrysler stock K Member, as you look at it from the end it sorta looks like the letter K. That's where the slang name came from. As far as Swagger Jacker's car goes, Look at the front cross member very carefully as they are very prone to rust. Also as far as the stub frames be very careful about cutting off any serial numbers if you modify the frame. I don't know where you live but these old cars don't have VIN's and many times there is not a plate with the serial number due to body parts being replaced at some point. California for one will sometimes look for the stamped frame serial number which could be lost when you start cutting up the frame to replace major pieces. True story, was in California with a friends 53 Chevy hot rod and they wouldn't register the car for this reason (no serial Number Plate) so he had to make an appointment with CHP for an inspection. Was told to wait when he got there due to the car before him taking much time. It was a very high dollar 57 chevy that had the front of the frame stubbed and the rear of the frame narrowed and the body tubbed for huge rear tires. The frame serial numbers were gone, told the guy the car couldn't be registered in California. He had bought the car out of Colorado on Ebay 2 weeks ago. He asked the cop what he should do and the cop said "put it on ebay". This was about 15 years ago....... Just beware!

 

Things probably have changed in since I lived there, but back in the day I built a custom motorcycle. Needless to say no VIN on it. Had to go to the highway patrol and they issued me a VIN for it. May not do that anymore.

 

Here in Oregon a new build of an old car (pre WW2 mostly) is pretty easy to get an ***igned VIN, involves receipts, pictures and an inspection. Cars after WW2 without a ***le it gets pretty sticky or impossible. Don't know about California now but seemed very hit or miss when I lived there. Bought a 65 Falcon Sprint in about 1977 that was a pretty nice 4 speed, running, driving car but no ***le. The seller had a bunch of paperwork so I took a chance and went to the DMV. Turns out the car had been through multiple "owners" who had all started to try to register this thing and didn't complete the process. I had to track down 6 previous people but one of them was a finance company that had gone out of business but their name had been on the ***le at one point. No signature to be had, the DMV wouldn't budge. Ended up parting a car that should have been a keeper. Never bought a car without a clean ***le since! Mark

 

When you do a purchase frame stub usually there are options for spindle drop, rack and pinion, shock style, and even power plant mounts(k member) etc. You'll likely have to figure something out for transmission though.
***le can be tricky anywhere you are lol. Thankfully I have never had anyone look for a stamping on any vehicle here in California. As long as you give up you registration willingly when stopped they have no reason to look further but for good measure....
Never remove the vin tag from the door jam

 

Both cars I mentioned in California were cars coming from out of state and required a VIN check. Oregon has the same requirement for out of state cars.

 

Hi guys sorry have been busy. I have my 55 tagged and it has the vin plate in the door. I will make sure that i do not cut anything that identifies the car. I live in Orlando, Florida but the car was in Columbus, Ohio @nosford do you know where i could look for stub frames? I have also been looking at the Godzilla engines as well @JeffB2 would the k member/stub frame be the same? I have also been looking into tubs. I want to run a 19x5 in the front and 20x5 in the rear. Another question I had was what rear end would i need to get. I have seen 8", 8.8", 9" etc

 

I have verified that Fat Man Fabrications has indeed went out of business and that was where most of the stub frames came from. I posted a thread here about a car show at Champoeg Part, if you look at the 56 in the pictures there it has a Big Block FE installed in the stock frame. If you don't absolutely have to have a Coyote you could keep your stock frame, rebuild the stock control arms, install a modern Borgeson steering gear and call it good for the front. As I mentioned the stock front suspension is a good IFS design and the geometry is not bad from the factory. A stroked 351W can go all the way out to a 427 and is light and would fit well. This 427 is very popular with the Cobra kit car builders. Since the Godzilla is a push rod engine it just may fit as well, don't know for sure. In the rear, you would need to work backwards (no pun intended) , figure out what tire you wanted to run and then see what you would need to do to the car to make it fit. Wheel tubs, frame modifications, etc., then start looking at rear ends and wheel offsets to get the combination to work, Anything over 400HP would rule out a 8 inch, either an 8.8 or 9 inch would be up to double that with the right upgrades. The 9 inch can be had aftermarket brand new in any width and built for power levels way higher than that, also parts are easy to get from so many sources. After all that you might want to consider an Art Morrison complete frame complete with brakes, Steering, Rear end, and mounts to install whatever powertrain you want. The price might be worth the end result. That's what Tim Allen did when he built his 55. Just a thought

 

I did find this article on here about Fat Man Fab Technical - Fat Man Fabrications | The H.A.M.B.

it looks likes southern rods still makes the weld in front stub. Yeah I am pretty sold on the gen 2 coyote swap or Godzilla being the power plant. I might just have to **** it up and look into these 20K frames wasnt something I wanted to do since it takes some of the fun on learning how to work on things out. To me the price is what it is when I plan on driving this thing I cant any longer and the price of these newer cars are the same with you getting less

 

Spec info. https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05438/en-us The 1952-56 Ford frames can make some swaps harder because of exhaust to steering box clearance, the Borgeson box is bigger than stock making things more difficult, this will clear better and takes up a lot less room under the hood. Thanks to inflation, the $35 deal is no longer true https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/...afe-no-ebay-module-needed-pics-videos.454530/ Swaps in 1954-59 Fords are easier if the donor engine has a front sump oil pan. This may help: https://www.facebook.com/groups/328402801540707/posts/1227832708264374/ This has a front sump oil pan HUGE HP too. https://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com/mopar-493-street-strip-crate-engine-street These actually are a good fit in these Fords. One of my Facebook friends has a 440 in his '53 I lost the under hood shots I had in my files. You can see his Ford here. https://www.facebook.com/bibigormandizer.bertini A long time ago he did some T-shirts for this Group.

 

everything I see when it comes to the frames or anything swap related is for the ford trucks. I know there has to be a lot of these ford cars still around why is nothing made for them?

 

where do you find 19” and 20” rims that are 5” wide?
A 1990-92 Ford Ranger V6 8.8 rear end has the same width as your stock one. You can narrow the long side of an Explorer to take a short side axle and it’s very close. Easy to do……many You Tubes on it.

 

so sent an email to Scott's Hotrods N' Customs and was told this is what I need

Spring Pocket Replacement IFS – Scotts Hotrods

What do you fellas think? It seems everyday I learn a new term for these front ends, lol

@nosford @JeffB2 @jimmy six

it looks like i can knock out the front suspension and all with this

 

Okay, yes this looks like a frame stub (attaches to the existing frame cut off at the firewall) but the name "spring pocket" seems aimed at the Mustang 2 conversions. The Mustang 2 front suspension does use upper spring mounts which they are calling spring pockets, they are doing the same thing but different. The basic concept is the same. Your car has IFS with spring pockets from the factory using upper and lower control arms, This one from Scotts Hotrods is doing the same thing, IFS using upper and lower control arms but using coil overs (or air bags) instead of conventional springs. In short, this will allow you to do what you want and is a frame stub with a new name even though in one place they call it a frame stub. Will probably make for a nice riding front suspension with mounts for a rack and pinion steering.

 

There is a Facebook Group that focus on Godzilla swaps in numerous Ford vehicles, you should check it out they look to be very active. https://www.facebook.com/groups/328402801540707