Projects First Hotrod 28 Sedan Please help

I just bought my first model a project, its a 28/29 sedan, Car is pretty much all stock, Im looking to build a full fender traditional style hot rod, I haven't the slightest clue where to start, Ive built tons of muscles cars, I run a custom upholstery business, Im not a novice to cars, just this particular style of car, The first thing i wanna figure out is what I need to get the car as low as possible without destroying the drivability, Any guidance is truly appreciated

 

these are all example of cars I really like

 

First step(IMO) either box the frame completely or purchase an aftermarket frame. The stock frame(particularly with a v8) is relatively weak and twists easily. An all aluminum engine is easier on a frame than a similar cast iron version with only aluminum intakes. Cast iron exhaust on the engine are quieter and generally seal better over the long haul than headers;however headers generally breathe better(produce more power). Suspension and brakes and steering ease would come next(IMO).Good luck and listen to everyone’s input—-then select the one that meets your expectations and abilities to perform as much as possible with your skills and friends help.

 

Thanks for the reply, I do plan on boxing the frame, probably run a mild sbc, My biggest things are i want the car as low as possible without stepping the frame so much I lose the back seat, A place for the kids to ride is the reason I went with a sedan, Im a pretty decent fabricator, I just know nothing much at all about straight axles other than I know thats what I want in this car

 

Use a dropped front axle and a reversed eye front spring, that will allow you to get it about 4 inches lower than stock. You also need to figure out about the brakes, disc, drum, master cylinder, power or manual, etc.

 

A Model T rear spring will drop the back an inch.
Check out some build threads to get ideas about suspension mods.
Your local area may have a project car to see.
Posting it may help you get a look at one in progress.
Good luck stay in touch.

 

A beam (as in I beam) axle has a little bit of give(or twist if u prefer) whereas a tube(tubular) axle has no twist or give which (IMO) reflects in a harsher or rougher ride. When a cross spring or buggy spring or Henry Ford spring is the right length, the shackles with engine,trans and brakes should be at a 45 degree angle with the weight of the vehicle on the ground.Generally, disc brakes that are power assisted will require a booster(usually firewall mounted and not too eye appealing unless u are able to find a small(in size) booster) whereas drum brake master cylinder can be mounted below the floor for a cleaner firewall look.Try to keep the same bolt pattern of the wheels frt and rear. A model a frame is relatively short so a T or A spring will work or coil overs will work also with a pan hard bar to control side movement.Any year early Ford v8 clutch and brake pedals can be adapted to the A frame with 37-40 probably the easiest to find because master cylinder can mount below the floor.

 

Do you want traditional under the skin too, or could it be newer stuff? I see you want a SBC, so you are probably fine with a more modern type of suspension (ladder bars, Vega steering, etc.). Get yourself a Pete & Jake’s catalog and study it. They have a great section on why the suspension works. And all the parts they make are thoroughly tested through thousands of cars and many decades.

 

Give serious thought to where you want the gas tank:

1) Stock cowl tank: Convenient, but a serious fire hazard and limits your wiring and gauge options.
2) Dual saddle tanks between the frame rails and running boards: Hassle to fill unless you have a crossover fuel line.
3) Deuce tank: common, but IMO, looks like a baby with a full diaper.
4) Vertical tank behind the back seat: Best option IMO, but consumes some back seat space.

I planned for my kids to ride in back of my '28 sedan, so chose #4, using four stock Tudor front bucket seats with a bulkhead separating the tank from them. It's a highboy, so #2 wasn't an option.

Here are some construction pics. Hope this helps.

 

Also, before bending any metal, buy and memorize these two books:
https://share.google/4hyQZwS9zjGZywx4D
https://www.verntardel.com/store/p2...del_A_-_International_Book_Award_Winner!.html

 

I made my own gas tank mouthing
from 32 rear cut off frame horn & 32 gas tank
If you plane on keeping rear windows
Up / down , I used a S10 4x4 disc rear,
To clear rear window inner panel's, on """A 's Sedan's ""
Wider then 2W D rear for coupe / truck
Roadster .

Triangular 4 bar rear ,
Front 4 bar
4 inch drop axle with reverse eys
Vega box
30 tall rear tires
Front I Believe where 26 .

If you are going to use Original
A Part's
Like wish bone , 38-40 brakes , rear & so on thats a different build,
Like 60s & older build / parts .

 

The front suspension setup is what i really need info on, The rear isnt much different from the cars im use to working on, but straight axles are brand new to me, so figuring out what all i need to make a good driver is the info im looking for, what axle, spring, brakes, steering etc... I want to keep it as traditional as possible, But not at the expense of safety, and drivability

 

Like I said, P&J’s is the source.

 

Like @alchemy said
P&J catalog & info 3 or 4 pages cover
Multiple builds Part's to use , Vega , Ford 100 , Mustang ext ,
Hair pin , 4 Bar , split .

Posey in Pa also Axle & front springs

 

If you can find it, sadly it's been out of print for a while, this book is the Bible for exactly what you want to do. It will walk you through step-by-step and includes templates for necessary things. It is essential. Not to be confused with the roadster book Vern and Mike Bishop put out.

https://www.autobooks-aerobooks.com/product/vern-tardel-hot-rod-your-model-a/

 

Build a banger. It will be far cheaper to put a cam, head and pair of Strombergs on it than a whole drivetrain swap that will also require beefing up the frame. Add juice brakes and a dropped axle. Use a quick change if you have the $ and a T5 overdrive. Get Jim Brierley's book on building the A & B engines. Work towards 100 hp. That along with the T5 will let you keep up with traffic. And don't forget chop 2-3" out of the window height. You can use a reverse eye spring at the back or lose a leaf or two. That works at the front too but if you're going to get a dropped axle it's redundant.
I'm assuming the green car in post 2 is what you are shooting for?

 

There's a second edition of that book available.

https://www.verntardel.com/store/p397/Vern_Tardel_-_Hot_Rod_Your_Model_A_-_Second_Edition.html

 

Building a banger compared to less than $300 in boxing plates to install a SBC will almost never be cheaper.

I admire your passion about keeping the banger, but let's be realistic about what it costs to keep one alive in 2025.

 

1929-1948 Ford 47'' Solid 5'' Drop I Beam Axle Hairpin Spindle Leaf Spring kit | eBay would this axle kit work? and im definitely going v8, it aint even a hotrod without a v8 lol

 

While that's pretty much what you need, I'm skeptical that you'll get a forged axle for that price. They say it is, but I don't buy it.

Speedway's kits at a similar price say their axle is cast and come with less stuff.

A 46" axle width is right for a full fendered model a hot rod, I've been told.

 

I think they sell the axle alone for 250 300, which is close to what I saw on speedway as well, id just prefer to buy the biggest kit I can afford atm, instead of trying to source it piece by piece

 

Wow. OP, jump on this. Only 4 left. I'm telling you it will walk you through exactly what you want to do and answer all of your questions from a man who builds some of the most traditional rods around.

 

I have to disagree. There is no way you are building a hot rod banger cheaply. I mean a correct build. Not a thrown together back yard build. Stock rebuilds are $6K conservatively.

To get a 100 hp out of banger, you are talking OHV heads, etc. That will land you in the $15-$20K range if you are lucky. Plus, you still have the junk stock trans to deal with unless you can find a B trans and swap over V8 gears.

That said, building a flathead V8 aint cheap either. Expect to spend around $5-7K if you are willing to do some of the work yourself and hunt down parts. If not, $10K+ all day long.

OP, get the Tardel book. Once you do, there are little tricks that can get your A in the weeds. Once you get there, come back and post.

Also, what you are trying to do will always be cool, but it's not rocket science. It's been done countless times since '32 as soon as the first Deuce hit the wrecking yard. Good news is a lot of tricks have been learned along the way.

For example, using a '26/'27 T rear crossmember and T spring lowers the rear by 2.5" without anything else. Using stock T parts.

Regarding your axle, contact Greg @ Anson Axles. He's on Instagram. Have him drop a Ford axle for you. He can make it any width you want or need. Don't fool with Speedway Chinese axles.

 

To Hot Rod Banger & F-H
Even with engine 6-10k
Rebuild & with some bling
Performance parts
Cheaper to do 80's 2.3 4 banger
More hp

 

I have the second edition. It has some good info but I haven't found it as helpful as everyone claimed.

For a beginner it might be better.

 

Interesting. I found it a great resource when I did my '28 AV8 roadster. I'm not a beginner either. What I like about it is it shows you how to use all Ford parts and how to reuse the Model A parts when you can.

 

Agreed. Now you are looking for a modern trans to hook up to the 2.3 and a way to make it closed drive.

 

If you are asking me , I think in unusual way's , when not being lazy ,burnt out.
I cross breed , try , make,& experiment .

 

It can be done for sure, Jeep T-5, etc., but it is moving away from the spirit of what the OP is trying to do by building a traditional AV8.

 

FOCUS PEOPLE, lol I can see the cool factor in the banger, but thats not what im interested in, I just turned 40, Im midlife crisis, putting a sbc in this thing is the only thing keeping me away from corvettes and jean shorts