What OT crap are you working on

I have this daybed frame with the springs . I was wondering if it could be used for a seat back ? In a truck to make the back thinner ? Using the stock frame or making a frame

 

The wheels make it off topic

 

I like that body style of Chevys . Especially the knee bump wrap around windshield type . The body lines and curves are cool not flat and boring lol
Great job Lloyd . The body looks smooth . Black paint shows everything

 

I could be wrong, but I believe the day bed might be just the wrong width (in either direction) to correctly fit as a seat back in an old pickup cab. Might work if you modify the frame then modify the spring section. Could possibly be used to repair an existing seat frame though.
It is a good thought though.

 

Maybe you could snap some suitable Moon wheel covers or dog dish caps on to make it hamb friendly when in that mood...

 

That looks pretty tidy right out of the boof.

Aint that interesting, I typed "boof" rather than "booth" trying for a bit of urbonic humor and spell check let it ride. It didn't like the word "urbonic" even though it is in the OED. Go figure.

 

And I learned something I didn't care to know-boof is slang term for inserting drugs in the rectum for absorbtion!

 

TMI! I had an employee that talked of such things. Crazy kids.

 

Pulled the Grand Prix out of the corner and got the engine pulled today.

 

had an old 2nd gen Camaro 12 bolt. Narrowed it to 1st gen specs putting a new posi and 3.73s in

 

Dont know a thing about that body style in Olds badges , friend of mine has one that has 4.3 Diesel power OEM . How many have you ever seen ?

 

I was sewing up some "hip bolsters" for a Racing Lawn Mower we've been building
We had lowered the seat and were getting bruised hips on the corners




This is the result from when Mechanics and Engineers hijacking a "kids DIY sport"

 

I suspect further bruising to ensue, powered by???
Now, about that Kawi!

 

I’ve seen the V8 version. But not the “If at first you don’t succeed, try try again” V6.

 

Bout as exciting as a Prius!

 

not going pro touring with my 69 but thought it would be fun to nose it up to my pal Dave's car

 

The Bike in the background is Ian's old race bike [but still street registered] ,he has a collection of them.
Ian has been a bike mechanic since 1978 [when he started his apprenticeship] and tired of working on them.
So He decided to try another hobby.
That's where I fit in........ I know how to make 4 wheels go around corners
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The Mower is powered by a 750cc Kohler with a hot cam, CDI , and Mikuni carb.
It gets up to about 40-45 mph [according to the tach] on the grass tracks which is fast enough to hurt yourself.

The speed doesn't scare us .... It is the stock flywheel at 6000 rpm [it is like having a frisbee next to you family jewels]

The rules require an OEM lawnmower vertical shaft engines so we might switch over to a Kawasaki .
We've got a Kawi 1000cc V2 from a "Cherry Picker" that we'll convert to vertical shaft. [Kawi make a 700cc V2 mower engine that is identical]
With a few mods we should get about 90hp

There are people that have $10k invested in Kohler engines [most of our mods were bolt-on's to freebie "grenade" engines.]
Our mower was winning races first time out [untested] due to us dicking with steering geometry, and setting up the frame to be square [it really hooks up hard]

 

My high school pals' older brother bought a H1 Kawasaki in 1971, a wild bike mated with a crazy rider is pretty entertaining. He then bought a 70 AAR Cuda, 340x3/ automatic, rumpy Sig Erson cam.
Miss those days!

 

I had a '71 H1 Kwaka! [blue tank , drum brake front] it was quite lethal.
I swapped a J.A.P speedway bike for it
The only reason I lived through this was I was only 14 and too young to ride it daily [even though I sneaked out on it a few times]
Eventually I got caught by the cops riding it, and they followed me home and gave my parents [and me] a good lecture.
My parents made me sell it, So I swapped it for a well thrashed TM400 Suzuki motocross bike [and some cash]
This bike ^^^ was probably more dangerous

The Suzuki was later converted to a road bike by adding lights /horn/ etc . I simply went down to the post office, filled out a form and they issued a title/plates.[it was easy back then]
I then part traded in the Suzuki on a '65 Fairlane 2 Door 289 C4.

I miss those days too.......... Wheeling and Dealing Cars [and Girlfriends] amongst all your buddies.
And the Cops would simply take your keys off you, and get your parents to go to the station the following day to retrieve them.

 

Unless you have records, purchase the timing chain cassettes and head gaskets now.
There's a reason those SOHC 4.0s are cheap.

Not sure if serious.
I'm of the opinion the only '05 and newer vehicles that we may see in the future will be cream puff survivors, heavily modified customs, or the higher end models in the collector field.
As it is I see more GT500s than I do regular GTs of that era. I highly doubt anyone will be making repop airbags, and I mean the trim pieces in the door frames and seat cushions.
Restoration on late models is going to be 'interesting' in the future.

Great thing about the Rona bike boom was there were a lot of repop parts made, grips and tires.
bmxguru, porkchopbmx, planetbmx and a few other sites will cover quite a bit in the 20" realm.
Just watch out for the clowns selling 'real Ashtabula fork!!!' for hundreds. Can still find nice forks for $30.

Early cars were sketchy as the flywheel was too light. Had to find that sweet spot of just enough throttle to not stall, but not so much that the rears go up in smoke. Drove a couple and they all had a weird threshold.

Rocket powered GP!
The way God intended.
307 or 350? What are the plans for the Poncho?

 

tongue firmly in cheek

 

350, it’s just going to get a ls1. Just a little street car. Motor went to some guy from Columbus. Did keep the transmission, have a 68 Buick with the st400? Kinda worn out, this has the bop bolt pattern. Probably swap that out if I don’t go ls in that as well.

 

Can’t say I’ve ever seen one with the diesel. I have an oil filter collection and a number of the fram filters I have list the old gm diesel motors in the cars. Had an old employee that used to work for Cadillac in the day and said the old diesels in them were so problematic they ended up pulling them and putting a regular gas motor in them as a recall.

 

Started this one a couple months ago, 1961 Rambler wagon, was a unibody but the whole underside of the car was rotted out, if you opened either front door the whole lower A pillar would move and drop the doors! Cut it all out, rebuilt it, and put it on a G body chassis. No more unibody! Gen 2 LT1 controlled with an LS computer and T56 now installed, work continues.

 

Love that Rambler wagon!!

 

Thanks, it should be a fun driver with the much better suspension, V8 power and a 6 speed!

 

Looks swell

 

I took a much needed hiatus from this thing a few years ago. Now it's in my way, so I'm gonna take it to a friend's place to finish it.

 

Long post is long.

My parents lawnmower will be the end of me...

I rebuilt carb/engine/trans in my Fairmont when I was 17.

I've instructed my brother over the phone how to solder plumbing, he has trouble with Lego instructions. It has pi'tures for Pete's sake!

I had to redraw electrical drawings, partially from memory, for half a floor at a hospital because one of the formen turned out to be a meth head and burnt the drawings when he got caught stealing.

I am a g*damn surgeon with a sawzall!!!

I could pontificate more but simply ...

I think of myself as a reasonable, competent, person.
*red mist moments excluded*

... but this mower... this fucking mower...

B&S flathead push mower with a single 'Craftsman' sticker/barcode on the deck. Engine cowling states B&S. It's 20+ years old.

Symptoms.
Runs fine for the first 5 minutes, mows fine. Then silently quits.
Try to restart it feels like no compression.
Pulled filter and plug, everything within spec.
Put a compression gauge on it.
60Psi is low, 90Psi is optimal. Readings averaged 87Psi.
I did a lot of compression testing, a lot.
Changed oil because, why not and one less thing to do later.

Checked the coil, cold it was in spec, hot it was open circuit.
Replaced coil, which was strangely hard to find. Who knew, the amount of flathead B&S coil permutations is boggling.

Engine starts, runs great, 5 minutes later kaput.
Same issue, feels like no compression on attempts of restart. Recheck everything, Everything is in spec.

30mins later come back, mower starts, runs for 5 minutes and then dies.
Maybe the blade is fouled?
Flip mower on side,where it pisses gas out of the cap.
Wonderful Michael.
Cap washer is split. Temp fix, remove washer, crank down cap, doesn't leak when on side. Yay.
Blade and deck are not fouled. D'oH! 30mins later yank cord, engine starts, 5 mins later engine dies. Double D'oH!
Definitely a thermal failure. Maybe a valve is hanging open?
Doesn't make total sense as I did quite a bit of compression testing when cold and hot.
Removed muffler(not rusty or rattling), removed valve cover which has some kind of pcv system and a port to the carb, check valves(.0000 clearance) file ends(.004 intake/.006 exhaust).
Pulled apart carb and fuel tank.
Cleaned both and reassembled.

Start mower, it does sound better, maybe it was a leak down issue, during compression testing it was only seeing the pressure spikes when cranking(?) but wasn't actually holding? Dunno.
5mins of blissful mowing later engine missed stumbled recovered and then died 15 seconds later. Wouldn't restart.

Phoned a friend.
'What happens if you just let it run without mowing.'

So I did exactly that today @ 11a.m. Went out, yanked the cord, and it was running. Started a timer, strapped down the safety lever, put some sound shielding around it to not annoy myself or piss off the neighbors, and went inside to make lunch.

2:30 engine chuffed, kept running.
4:20 engine chuffed twice, kept running.
10:25 engine sputtered, missed, steadied out, changed tone, and I think the rpms went up slightly. It sounds smoother/better.
12:30 engine still running, might as well see if it will mow.
26:00 finished mowing the backyard with no problems, and I was not gentle with it. It found every rock, wall, fence, wheelied it, scraped it off the curb, ran it under the lawn 'art', etc. It just stayed running.
28:34 engine was still running fine, blessed the mower with a little French, might even have called it a 'lil French' and shut it off.
30:00 wanted to see if it being thoroughly heat soaked now, would it start? Pull down safety lever, yank cord and she starts with no problems. Let it run for about a minute and then cut it off.

I have yet to go back out and try again.

Have I excised the demon that possessed the mower?

My only real question, besides why does it seem to have fixed itself, is how does the fuel system work?
I'm assuming some combination of the pcv system and a pulse type fuel pump integrated into the plastic(green) carb or uses the primer bulb. Tried looking up diagrams with the engine number and craftsman number, there were a few close diagrams but nothing exactly like mine.

 

I'm going nuts trying to figure out why my temp and fuel gauges don't work. It's a 71 duster so I figured it was the IVR that powers both the senders. No. The one that was in there passed test, but I went ahead and bought a new solid state one and it acts the same as the original one did.

In the past I had pulled the fuel sender and moved it around and could see the resistance changing so that isn't the the problem. I've probed the temp sender while the engine was hot, same. I grounded the sender wires and the gauges both go to full scale as they should. So the senders seem good, and so does the wiring. The fuel sender is grounded with a separate wire between it and the body. Continuity checks confirm it's definitely grounded.

Running out of ideas, I pulled the cluster out, disassembled it, put it back together no help. I got a 100 ohm pot and wired it into the cluster to simulate a sender. Now the gauges move like they should based on where the pot is set. So the cluster is OK and so are the gauges. During these tests I used the separate ground wire I added to the cluster as the ground point, so that should ground the cluster when it's in the car with that wire connected to the dashboard.

Everything seems to work separately, but none of it works together.

I think the word for this kind of problem is madness.