Featured Hot Rods 56 Ford Mainline

More obstacles.

Someone put an aftermarket brake booster unit on the car. It cleared the 305 chevy engine, but will not allow the Y-block valve cover to fit. I will remove the booster and fit the valve cover. Maybe put a dent in it.


The 1957 bellcrank does not match the 1956 inline six firewall accelerator linkage. The 1957 trans pressure rod (”kickdown rod”) will probably not clear the 1957 valve covers. Even though the 57 parts came off the same running car. Also, Bubba has done some welding to the bellcrank and the rod. Very confusing.

I guess I must hunt down some 1956 parts to move forward.

 

I have the old 1956 inline six accelerator linkage on the firewall. Is it different from the V8 linkage?

 

I remember seeing a Chevy booster that was much much smaller than the one you have. I think it came off a mid 50's chevy. Sorry I can't be more help as to the year and make to look for but it is smaller in Dia. and length.

Mike

 

So glad that you are junking that shivrola. Ford in a Ford.

 

Thanks, the process is kind of frustrating. But I want THE SOUND.

 

Ford used a small diameter booster and a bracket that raised it up a few inches, they were used early to mid 60’s Ford. The bolt pattern on the firewall is the same as the ‘55-‘56 Fords.
I believe it was a Midland brand booster.

 

Booster for a ‘93 Cobra Mustang fit very well in my ‘54 and cleared the Yblock valve cover.

 

If not already you need to cut the front rubber stops in half. I forgot when I put in the AeroStars 7 years ago and busted up the rubber. The shocks installed needed a floor jack to get up to bolt on but really helped the ride. kYB’s but I don’t remember the #. Larry’s Thunderbird in Corona Ca. Sells a 1-1/8” sway bar to replace the 7/8”.

 

I.M.O.: That car needs it's Y- Block!
I don't believe the booster is needed on that car. Manual brakes work quite well when adjusted properly. To eliminate the booster may involve a different master cylinder, but it would work well and be worth it visually.
Also, the V-8 vs. 6 cylinder throttle linkage is almost certainly different.

 

Yeah, that is my experience as well - drums work very well if everything is ok in the whole brake system.

I will remove the booster and fit the valve cover first. The problem is to get it over the stud, with the booster in place. If this wont work, I most likely will get an original master cylinder instead and be done with it.

 

I have seen different types of 1956 firewall linkages on ebay. Here is a pic from an auction. The bracket is the same as the one on my car, but the top arm is shorter, and should (?) fit the extra piece of linkage that connects to the bellcrank in the intake.

There is an old junkyard marking on it that seems to read ”6 cyl” or something. I have asked the seller if he knows where it came from.

I would like to find one that fits right. Drilling holes and fabrication requires the engine to be taken out again.

 

If you can, it's an advantage to use a dual reservoir master cylinder... without a booster.
As for the throttle linkage, it's not hard to fab your own from parts of O.G. linkage and custom made components. Just be sure it lines up & moves freely. But you knew that, so I'll go away...

 

Thanks. Yes, I have mocked up a new linkage, using what I have + a few 1960s Volvo parts. I think it will work out ok.

What makes it a bit difficult is that I often do not know what the OEM parts look like and what the original idea was.

 

Here’s the ‘55/‘56 accelerator and kick down linkage parts diagram:



Here’s the ‘57/‘58 parts diagram:



Looking at your present linkage parts, I see a weld on the sliding mechanism that allows the kick down to work at full throttle. The weld negates the springs and won’t let the kick down function correctly.



I’m not sure what year your linkage is. It’s close to the ‘57/‘58 Ford linkage. But, not exact. I checked my ‘49-‘59 Mercury parts books, but no match. You may have remants of a truck linkage and part of the old 6 cyl linkage.
It may be easier to find a whole ‘55/‘56 linkage set and modify it to actuate your ‘57 Fordomatic’s kick down lever than to try to modify what you have (and have it all work correctly!).

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks a ton!
My 57(?) bellcrank has been modified quite a bit. I do not know why, but someone looong ago had a problem to solve:

I have tracked down a complete 1956 setup with everything from the accelerator pedal to the last piece of linkage to the carb - probably identical to the pic from the manual above.

If I buy it I might have to make a bracket to bolt it to the 57 intake. But such issues can be solved.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me out.

 

I just realized the parts diagram for the ‘55/‘56 linkage is for a 2bbl set-up. The throttle link connects to the passenger side of the carb. The whole linkage assembly bolts to the back of the manifold. The 4bbl linkage assembly bolts to the two bosses on the driver side of the manifold and the throttle link connects to the driver side of the 4bbl carb. The linkage assembly you want should look similar the the ‘57/‘58 linkage.

Sorry for the mis-information! I can’t find a parts diagram for the ‘55/‘56 Ford 4bbl linkage. But, I can post the ‘55/‘56 Mercury diagram (4bbl only). I’ll try to get some pictures of the linkage in my ‘55 Mercury that might help, too.

 

Looks overly complicated... I've used these in the past. I put shrink tubing over the braided parts, paint or glass bead the ends or paint them black and they blend...

 

Ok, them I understand why some 56 v8 cars have the ”big” assembly - they are 2 barrels. Often hard to tell from pictures on the internet, where the air cleaner hides the carb. The complete assembly I tracked down is for a 2 barrel - you saved me!

This one would probably be a good starting point, a 4bbl 56 bellcrank I saw for sale. Combined with some fabricated linkage and my re bent inline six firewall bellcrank. My goal is to have a functional driver, that shifts well and works as intended.

 

That would be a super neat solution. But the mechanism of the pressure rod for the transmission is integrated in the Ford linkage idea - so things get a bit more complicated…