Technical Question for the Pros - Sanding for Paint Prep - High Spots

Because almost no one will pay what it costs to get a true show car finish.

 

If you see a friendly car (it waves at you), it’s because they didn’t use a long enough block. And with blocks, you need to learn long even strokes.

 

Haha! I’m sure there are plenty who pay lots and still don’t get a mirror like finish. I need to know how to get that type of finish though.

 

"Lots" is a very subjective scale and most have no idea whatsoever what a true show car paint jobs costs or the work involved. A true show quality paint job probably has 300-400 hrs in it before paint is even sprayed add a couple of days for that and probably close to $10K worth of materials these day then 50-100 hours to cut and buff it afterwards all at a shop rate of around $100/hr. How many people do you think are paying for that?

 

Shrinkage?

 

Mirror like is EZ
Just do proper metal work
Proper body work
Proper primer blocking and sanding
Proper paint application
Proper color sanding and buffing

 

Never judge a paint job on how it looks without seeing the bill first

 

Agree, but then why do I see guys then cover it all up with filler?

 

Filler is anything that levels the surface
Primer, lead, plastic fantastic
They all do the same thing.
from high end coach built rides to daily beaters.
I’ve done repairs that didn’t get any “bondo” but it did get blocked with a filler primer.
A skim coat isn’t an indication of bad body work.
Look down the side of many new cars. Especially a new ford truck. That ride would need a good bit of body work to become “show” worthy.
I’ve done work for a manufacturer. We painted several of their show and press vehicles. Brand new bodies with zero miles. They got body worked from head to taillight.
“Show” straight is up and beyond what the factory did.
Another factor is cost. The amount of labor to remove a skim coat of filler can triple the metal labor.

 

So, a bunch of shorts from Bad Chad shows up in my YT feed, and I see this. The mother of all flex tubes! Better be sitting down @daylatedollarshort! Haha!

 

A friend of mine when I lived in Toronto knew a bunch of body men through his father who owned a wrecking/recycling yard. He said they all drank on the job because of how monotonous it was. They would be bored out of their mind sanding endlessly for days and days on end. I can say after a few rounds of 2-3 hrs of sanding these collectors is enough for me. I could never do bodywork for a living, but really admire those that can fab up metal and then bring to it to paint. Painting is something I always felt I could never do.

 

Sanding was EZ. Sometimes couldn’t believe people paid to do something so simple.
Enjoyed it a lot as a professional.
I don’t drink though. That could be it

my personal rides usually stay as found.
Don’t get paid to sand my own

 

Yup, I am speechless.

 

Thank you...
WTH... epoxy/filler will not hold up to any kind of heat, Perhaps this is a static display, The Key to any kinda rewarding results, Sharp paper, An a cross hatch type of approach, If it's "using" Exhaust, It's gonna Have to metal finished with abrasives...

 

@Ziggster , I think it's natural that you're always going to break through the surrounding primer first before you get the spot of Bondo flat.
Cuz there's much less of it.
A sanding block helps, but it still happens. The primer goes away pretty quick. But you've still got a thick spot of Bondo to make flat. The good thing about sheet metal, is it's harder than what we put on it. So it gives us a fighting chance to get everything flat and to the level of the metal.
... as long as we use a block.

Have fun.
Good luck with everything.

 

Oh yeah...
Get the Bondo off your exhaust system. Or not. That's okay, it'll come off by itself.