Found a welder thru facebook. He charged me $250. He decided to use a stick welder instead cause he said it was rusty and dirty and didn’t have space to clean it. So this is the finished job. He did look at my mig welder and apparently my gas wasn’t flowing. He helped me set it up and he was nice enough to show me some welds. So i think i’ll try some other small projects before i chop the cab. It sucks i had to pay to get it done but i’m happy with his work and i feel much more safe haha
After he explained mig welding a bit i think im doing a little better granted theyre not pretty but theyre not porous anymore and seems like a good penetration. I redid the bones. Will drill and plug them and i filled a tiny hole that was in the dash
Much better looking welds. Keep practicing on scraps then clamp them in a vise & try to break 'em. Don't be afraid of cranking up the voltage and burning through- that's how you learn where the "sweet spot" is. Where are you in Annandale? I'm in Chantilly, on the west side of Fairfax.
Remember the tips that he showed you and practice on junk metal that you have laying around. As stated, weld two pieces of heavy steel together. Put them in a vice with the weld showing and bend it over with a hammer. Bend it back straight and bend it the reverse to see where it breaks. If the weld breaks it is no good. Practice some more then take some samples back to your welder friend and see what he says. Then practice some more. You will then have a new skill that will enable you to build safe cars.
Installed the u bolt to crossmember and finishing the bones. She finally stands on her own! After paint on bones dries I’ll set up the caster angle on the axle. Got me a digital angle finder from amazon. Heard it’s got to be to +7°, so thats next. I connected the tie rod and the other rod thing to steer. It surprisingly fits perfectly. I thought i was gonna need to extend, but because it went like 4inch lower it actually fits well
I don’t think you’re ready to chop a cab anytime soon, so put that on the back burner. I also suggest you find someone that has chopped their 35-37 cab and ask them if you can sit in it. Those cabs are tiny to begin with and can be pretty uncomfortable when chopped. That’s how I look at it and I have two unchopped. Mine are staying that way.
Haha yeah i need to practice. I was thinking a mild chop. 2.5in chop is what i want to do. I’m gonna look for a class or something
here's a great article https://hunterspeedandkustoms.typepad.com/my-blog/2013/09/anatomy-of-a-roof-chop.html
My ADD is acting up or something so today i decided to tackle the seat. I found a cheap jeep rear bench seat thru fb. Paid $30 for it. Now this thing looked funny when i threw it in! It was soooo small haha, but cheap and i spent another $30 on some tube, rod and some sheet metal at homedepot and cut it all up to extend it. Here’s some pics… Also it was good practice for welding. I ordered the seat springs too ($20 on amazon) yet to be delivered. So I’ll need to find some foam and then do upholstery. Thinking wine red would look good
Finished installing the seat springs and back rods. Fits pretty good. I’ll find some foam now. In retrospect it would have been way easier to buy a bigger one and shorten, but oh well…
Idk if this is stupid. Can anyone comment on? This gives my axle the 7 degree caster angle I wanted, but is almost straight. I know I’m technically supposed to pull the rod down under the frame to come as close to the middle of the car as possible. I was gonna pie cut the bones and weld them at a slight angle but this is easier. Am i gonna put too much stress on the bones if i go this way? My suspension won’t have too much give. It’s quite low. Any advice is appreciated
As long as you use an I beam axle it will be fine. Can’t use a tube axle with bones split that far apart
Something doesn't look quite right there to me. Caster means the King Pin leaned back at the top. In a Stock system the wishbone ball is mounted (I'm going to guess here) about 3 to 4 inches lower in the center of the frame X ember. Also with the bones mounted high on the frame and going downhill to the axle instead of parallel to the ground it's going to push the I Beam forward under compression of the spring. You might want to recheck some of your math there. When mounting the fixed end of the Bones picture and Arc swinging on the mount bracket. At loaded ride height the Bones should be flat to the ground not up or down hill.
I took the crossmember as my reference angle of 0. Since its the flattest spot i could find. Then measured 7 degrees with the kingping leaning back towards driver side. The axle is definitely tilted. The crossmember now sits much higher in the frame compared to the stock configuration so it makes sense that the angle of bones changed. I was gonna pie cut the bones to make them drop below the frame but i saw a video of another truck that had something like this for their wishbones. Just wanted to hear people’s thoughts.
@Ed95 , I just messaged you my address & contact info. I'll be in my garage this weekend installing my sedan's interior. Come on over for some bench racing.
Split wishbones, especially all the way outside the frame, act as a kind of sway bar in conjunction with the axle. They are one continuous assembly with the ends connected to their pivots. Everything swings just fine and dandy from those pivots if the axle jounces straight up and down evenly. But if one tire goes up and the other doesn’t, some twist comes into play. A solid sway bar is made to twist. A forged I beam like in the OP’s truck will even twist in its middle. But a round tube axle won’t. So if the tube axle isn’t twisting, and the tube wishbones aren’t twisting, what is going to flex then? Some slop at the spring perch (which shouldn’t be any)? Eventually after enough use, something will crack.
This must be at final and Loaded ride height. Please go to "Peate & Jakes Hot Rod parts" online and download their FREE catalog and if Nothing else picture read the part on setting up, I Beam axles. Everything a new builder needs to know is right there in Black and White along with diagrams for those that can't read English. Without understanding the Basic's you like so many others will build a problem that's avoidable. There's no reason to reinvent steering geometry or to redo after you learn you built a Can of Worms even though it kinda is okay. Looks aren't everything, sort of like your beginning welds. Looks are important but good handling and steering are Priceless.
Henry Ford and many others used the "Triangle" bones for a reason. It's strength. Deviate from the triangle and you have to be perfect. Just close will not cut it and make it undriveable and dangerous. Take the advice^^^ from those that know.
The catalog is very helpful! Thanks. I will wait on the bones setup, i just have to assemble the radiator/grill and hood for finished weight. And add some coolant. I didn’t think it’d be a huge difference but there’s no rush on that. I have plenty other things i can do to it for now. I will come to it later
Welded some radiator mounts. Nothing too fancy and painted them. Finished setting the seat height. I’m 6ft tall. The bench seat really opens up the space. I think i have plenty of room to chop 2.5-3in
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