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Technical Cylinder head

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by memphis66, Sep 12, 2025.

  1. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    Hello eveybody,
    I own a 1954 Chevy bel-air 235" stock. I need to have my cylinder head redone.
    Anyone has an idea about the head bolts patterns and the tightening process ?
    And: where I can find the cylinder head bolts ? I found them on Chevsofthe40s, but there are two kinds of bolts: long and short....?

    Thanks so much. Alberto (Italy)
     
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  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,759

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Chevs of the 40's is probably your best bet if they ship to Italy. If your head is off and you set it on a table and use something for a gauge you will figure out the long and short head bolt holes real quick.

    This is the GM heritage center archives vehicle information kit for 54 Chevy cars including info on the engine. Save it to your favorites as it is factory information on your car. 1954-Chevrolet.pdf

    This is the 49-53 Chevrolet factory service manual and at the bottom there is a supliment for 1954 with info that is 54 specific. https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/index.htm It isn't as good as it should be though.

    This is the 235 Torque sequence. Screenshot (714).png
     
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  3. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    Thank you very much.
     
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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,476

    squirrel
    Member

    You do not need to replace the head bolts. That is only needed on much newer cars that use"torque to yield" bolts. On old cars you just clean the old bolts and put them back in.
     
  5. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,433

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Many of us like to torque them in steps - start with 30 lbs, then 60, and finish at 90 - 100 lbs ...
    We're hoping your head passes Magnaflux test ...
     
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  6. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,134

    KenC
    Member


    Funny story, I sold a couple of heads to replace ones broken due to bolt #2 in that pic. Dad had a salvage where I worked part time in the 60s. Guys would remove 'all' the bolts, and drive a screwdriver or something between the head and block to free the stuck gasket. 'cept that stuck gasket was that one bolt that wasn't inline with all the others. somehow they'd get 10 and 12 and miss that one.
     
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  7. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    That's interesting..I didn't know about that. Are you sure ?
     
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  8. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    Thank you !
     
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  9. 57Fury440
    Joined: Nov 2, 2020
    Posts: 491

    57Fury440
    Member

    Unless they are stripped or damaged, reuse the bolts. There is a pattern to follow when torquing the heads.
     
  10. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    The pattern is the one Mr48chev wrote on the first post up on here, right ?
     
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  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,476

    squirrel
    Member

    Yes.

    I am sure that you do not need to replace the bolts. Unless you see they are damaged. But it is not easy to damage them. I have never seen a bad head bolt on a Chevy six.
     
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  12. Bob Lowry
    Joined: Jan 19, 2020
    Posts: 1,595

    Bob Lowry

    Correct, clean 'em up and reuse....I have had a '35, '36, '37', '39, '40, 46', '54 and a '55 Chevy
    6 and have ALWAYS reused the bolts if there were in good condition. Never an issue after 65 years
    of doing motors.
     
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  13. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    Thanks so much, once again !
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  14. memphis66
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 14

    memphis66
    Member
    from Italy

    Thanks !
     
    winduptoy likes this.

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