My original tank is going to get pulled and turned into wall art. I believe the 30 year old coating is giving up and actually making it through the filter. Bought a new Tanks inc unit that includes a rollover/vent valve. Any ideas on mounting the roll over vent? I haven’t started the change yet, just spitballing. Thanks all
They say the vent should be higher or as high as the filler (the tank fill not the guy manning the pump handle). That is tough on a 32 tank where the fill is directly on the tank. I would run the vent up the back of the tank, under the body, maybe to the crossmember? Out of sight.
Doesn’t the rollover ball negate the need to loop the vent up high? If you roll the car, the ball stops the leak. I’ve had a Tanks rollover valve/vent on the stock tank in my 32 sedan for almost 20 years. No fumes. But I’ve never rolled the car, so I can’t tell how it would work in a crash.
Rollover vents are a good idea. Federal safety and environmental regulations Fuel system integrity (FMVSS 301): The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) mandates that vehicle fuel systems must withstand crashes without significant fuel leakage. In a rollover test, fuel spillage is strictly limited during the first five minutes and subsequent increments of rotation. Rollover valves are a key component in meeting these standards by closing the vent line to prevent fuel from escaping when the tank is not upright. Fuel system venting (49 CFR 393.65): The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) also has specific requirements for liquid fuel tanks, including those over 25 gallons. Safety venting system: Tanks must have a venting system to prevent ruptures in case of fire. Air vent: All fuel tanks must have a non-spill air vent, which can be part of the fill cap or a separate unit. This prevents vacuum lock and allows for proper air displacement. Clean Air Act: Capping or byp***ing a rollover valve is a violation of the Clean Air Act, as it allows fuel vapors and liquid fuel to be released into the environment.
All above can be Debunked Just One Thought , Big Trucks side saddle tank typical 125 gallons, My Big Nose Pete Had 2 150gallon plus a snigle 100 gal So 400 gal's . All 3 tanks Aluminum. Quite frequently big trucks get T-bone / hit in the tanks, Back in 70's Vega /Pinto all big Media scare, Fire & up to around 74 gas tank in cab of truck behined seat. Someting to thank about , All vehicle with all the plastic There a lot of "Static Electricity" Then Most Run there tanks Low Then pump Gas , Most of us know Fume's are more dangerous than the liquid,, For like last 25 years I make a Habit to ground my self out when Exiting plastic Vehicles & befor pumping gas. Back in 90 NHRA started a Rule that Nylon fuel cells Needed to be Grounded. & when we picked up Fuel @ air port 100 blue , we grounded Jug /Vehicle just like when fueling a Plane
I've pondered that before when someone was trying to figure it out but I'd say the barbed roll over valve in a loop like Clem showed in post 3 with some creative tube bending and a couple of gromets foor the holes at the back of the of the trunk floor right above the vent tube just in front of the back panel . I'd stick some sort of filter on the bottom of the loop if it were mine even if it was an inline fuel filter to keep any dirt out.
with a ‘32 as the original poster is asking about, everything is outside of the body. No need for grommets going through the trunk floor. If you are alluding to a fuel tank in the trunk, New Zealand’s lvvta has a diagram for that also, maybe of help to someone….
What tanks inc told me is the roll over valve takes the place of a vented cap which can leak gas slosh. The roll over vent needs to be higher than full fuel level. I’m ***uming that if there is a loop i.e. a line lower than the terminal placement of the roll over, would not vent how I’m intending the valve to function (as a vent)
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...duct_id=97/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd97.htm I used this one, and the hose just runs over to the frame rail and points down. No looping or upward stuff. All fits between the stock tank and floor. I welded two bungs into the top of the tank, one for the pickup and one for the rollover vent.
No , & I drag my cars I had a Model A with 32 tank I made Work my own set up , & other 32's 14 gallon tanks All 3 where / are low 6 sec 1/8 . In if you run vet under or up threw Trunk , Fumes / gas smell in side car's The A No frame horn cover , So I drilled hole in boxed frame ( adaptor to stock boxed A frame) , & ran Nylon hose / tube in frame back to rear Spreader bar 7/16 th I D
Here’s a couple examples of how I do it. One example (puppy) is in a Tudor, and one is a Roadster (did a 5Ws same way). Both use a pricey rollover valve in-line and then a small filter at the end of the line (under the floor). note: didn’t put the coil in the line (in the 5W) and it still seemed to work. It was more like the tudor line. Don’t know why I did it this time, but always experimenting.
This is basically what I did on my roadster, get the vent as high as possible. The one other thing I did was to put a cheapo in line filter on the end of the vent line in the theory that it would help minimize any road grit getting into the tank.
Mine comes up through the floor in the right fender well (behind the upholstery panel) about 6 inches, then a 180 degree bend and down through the floor to the atmosphere.
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