Hot Rods Lengthening a 32 Ford

I want to make room in my 32 (3 window) for a Cadillac engine and a supercharger. With the added length of the Cad and the blower drive belt, I have been planning to lengthen the frame. The "plan" was to extend the frame 2-3" and move the suspension forward the same amount as well as the fenders and running boards. The gap created by moving the sheetmetal forward would then exist where the running board meets the rear fender. A filler would be fabbed to fill that gap.

I also am thinking about bobbing the frame horns up front. I bought an extra set of frame rails so I could do the extension by using both frames.

The thought occurred to me that I might be able to just move those components forward on the stock frame and end up with frame horns that look the same as bobbed ones.

Anyone see any flaws in doing it that way? I know I would have to do some hole relocation and maybe spread the frame rails slightly up front......but it seems like an easier way to accomplish getting more room. I know that there are more of these cars showing up with extended frames to accommodate engines more easily, but it often goes unnoticed. I actually think that 32s look a little stubby to begin with, so adding a little length actually looks better (IMHO). Anyone else done this ?

Here is one that supposedly was extended 4". I think he added length in the cowl to gain some footroom. I don't plan on a hood or side panels. Both of these cars have 25 louvers in the side panels.



Here is a stock side view.

 

@ekimneirbo
One problem I think of is
OEM running boards have a arch the same shape as frame ,
Your going to be using IFS so that will creat a nother issue , wheel /tire to far forward in the front fender .
If low , take a picture of a stock three window printed out multiple copies cut and Tape ,
The only I think would be Less issues
But time fitment would to add 2 - 4 inches either at start of runningboards to front fender's or with in 12 inches of
Running board towards the upward slope behind where the wheel /tire would set

 

I personally think 32’s don’t look good with a long nose. Maybe you could get one inch and nobody would notice, but three would look like Pinocchio. Could you scoot the radiator and grille forward one, and only lengthen the hood? Leave the frame alone?

 

Slightly lengthened wheelbase is OK, but (just my opinion) I don't think any of these old Fords look right unless the grille is in the stock location in relation to the rest of the body. I'd do whatever it takes to install the chosen powerplant without altering that relationship.

 

Since you don't plan to run a hood, maybe just moving the grille/rad forward a couple of inches would work better. If you need to move the crossmember/axle, lengthening the front fenders and leaving the running boards in the stock place would probably be easier and look better. Probably best to not stretch it any more that you absolutely have to.

 

Then by moving rad forward & using stock or drop headlight bar , stock like 1 inch room ,
But with some custom bending
Not V bar , can bend with arch
Maybe not as noticeable Rad forward .

 

Not to be critical but that "32 Ford" roadster is a Dearborn Deuce, the ad copy says it was lengthened three inches.

https://spudsgarage.com/vehicles/32FordDearPismo/index.htm

 

First I would say the Caddy has been used many times without changing the wheelbase. Yes, this could reduce legroom or foot space.

The fenders will only fit the frame correctly by adding frame length behind the firewall.

I'll be interested to see how this progresses.

 

If @ekimneirbo post build will be in
O-T ,
Because Blown EFI & a few other parts.

 

On fenderless you can get away with moving the front crossmember forward. If you add fenders and move them forward then the curve stamped upsweep in the frame (which is the notable feature of a 32 frame) where the fenders meet will not make and will look odd.

 

I'm aware that the doors were made 3" longer, but don't know if they actually lengthened the body to accommodate it. I talked to the owner, but only for a moment and he said it had been lengthened.
I think he said in order to fit the engine, but maybe I just read something into what he said. It was a year ago when I talked to him, so don't remember the exact reply.
Here is Page 2 0f the Dearborn Deuce option list, and they show a lengthened hood being available. I didn't see anything mentioning longer running boards to accommodate extending the body. So, right now I'm not sure. I did take some measurements of his hood but haven't found where I put them . I did see on page 1 that it says "Cabin area has been enlarged 2 1/2" (more leg room) AND Hidden hinges attached to a modern stamped door with 3" of stretch (from original 32) for easier entry.

And one more thing....Says body reverse engineered to work with stock 1932 chassis and fenders. That would seem to indicate that the normal Dearborn Deuce wasn't lengthened but simply altered within the same parameters. So, at this point I'm not positive but this one looks longer to me. But I been wrong once before.

 

I'm with Weedburner. I've done lots of deuce chassis with the crossmember moved head from 1-2 inches. That combined with some creative firewall work should get you the room you need? Don't waste the second pair of rails just have a sheet metal shop bend what you need.

 

Just to be clear, even though it is off the original topic, the DD body fits on a stock dimension Deuce frame.
The doors are lengthened and the sail panel behind the seat is shortened a couple inches.

 

Seen the frame left the same length and the grill moved forward 2 along with the x-member

 

To my eyes, the roadster and the coupe are entirely different.
The doors on the coupe are much longer the the doors on the roadster, but the panel behind the door on the coupe is much shorter then the same area on the roadster. The curved front edge of the coupe doors are completely different then the straight cut roadster doors. Those two cars are very poor choices to determine what the car originally looked like.

I believe if I was going to add 4" of length to the 32 chassis, I would add a splice in to the rails under the cowl, and I sure wouldn't be cutting up complete side rails for 4" of frame. That extra spliced in piece is going to have to be a couple straight sections in the shaped rails to maintain the correct width at the front crossmember. I would be adding in a piece of tubing, or have someone bend a short piece of sheet steel to splice in. After you have done that, if you choose to bob the ends of the frame rails, do that after the frame has been extended.

 

@DDDenny.....that's some good info, thanks. I had not seen that, but it verifies that this particular 32 had been extended with a custom chassis while the item list for the Dearborn shows they sell a stock length chassis.
I found the note I had made when I measured the hood (with owners permission), and it says the hood was 35" down the center. Rootlieb sells a 32" one. I measured several cars while riding around and taking pictures and there seemed to be some differences in them.

 

Stock is 32 & like 3/32's

 

This one runs a blown BBC. Hard to tell if it has been lengthened. (Sorry about the wheels.)
A big block chevy is the same length engine as the Cadillac 500...... 30.5".
They have been put into '32 Fords quite often.

Anyone seen a '32 with a Nailhead??? They come in at 33.5" long!!!

 

Wheels are Not off topic .
@ekimneirbo is wanting to use running boards and fenders, thats the challenge
& Leg room with straight Firewall
& be comfortable, Not young & flexible like most of us were at one time

 

I've got a Nailhead in a 32 The center section of the stock firewall has been flattened and there is a bulge in the center for the distributor which goes in/comes out on an angle. Have about 3/4" between water pump shaft and the radiator. Not running a fan but have an electric one between the grille insert and radiator on a thermo switch.
Body and radiator in stock location.

 

Iversen Originals built this 3 inch lengthened roadster, I bought it because I wanted to put in a Y block. They’re about 3 inches longer than the Chevy small black that was in there. It’s all on the nose with the length and frame and reworked front rails to bring the nose down raked grill makes it a pie shape 3 inches on top and it’s reduces as it goes down. It’s in December 2002 Street Rodder magazine revolutionary deuce frame article. Good luck anything I can help you with let me know.

 

Nicely done!

 

That upswept rail looks like how Randy Clark in Escondito was doing them.

 

Yes, I agree that they are very different, but I was simply trying to show that apparent difference in overall length since both the roadster and the coupe use the same frame rails when stock. The coupe picture seemed to be the best example that I had to show a little stubbiness vs the longer look of the roadster when directly compared.

What you are suggesting is essentially the same as my original plan. Later as I was accumulating parts I came up with the idea that I might just get a second set of rails and use them to lengthen the frame with just one splice. The SRN were at hand and I had to decide because I could buy the rails there and save the shipping costs. I figured whatever pieces I had left might be salable to someone repairing a frame or using box tube and wanting the front to look more factory. So, maybe not a total loss.

Then I got my current idea that maybe I could just use one frame and move the fenders, grille and suspension forward. Thanks to several posters above who have confirmed that this or similar have been done before and worked well. Thats most likely how I will try to do mine. It all depends on how long the Cad/Supercharger ends up. I'm trying to do some creative pulley fitment to make it somewhat more compact.

 

On mine, the distributor is in the front, but I'm going to run a crank trigger so I have to fit that into the OAL as well.

 

Very nice car Dave...very clean. Thanks for the offer as all help and knowledge and ideas are welcome.

 

Thanks for the pic and info. I'm hoping I don't have the problems I'm anticipating.

 

Just a note about the 'how + why'
Sure we all know, but I like to emphasize that
any increase in wheelbase, gives a smoother reaction to road bumps.
The result is felt in the spine.

 

I think you are missing the point I was trying to make. A nailhead engine is 3 inches longer than the 500 Cadillac engine you want to use. If @swifty got a nailhead into his '32 without stretching the frame, you should be able to get the 500 in with 3" to spare for the blower drive.