Technical A Kid's First Project: 1957 Fairlane 500 Town Victoria.

well, seems im going axle tag hunting

 

If you don't have an impact or tools to swap yokes, grab a cheap caliper and measure that too.
15 bucks isn't going to be RCH accurate, but it will do out in the wild.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/measure-and-marking-tools/measuring-devices/20970

 

Alright, I'll throw my .02 worth in here...

First, if you can get a 390 FE for $250, BUY IT NOW! Good blocks are getting hard to find, much less all the other bits like pulleys and whatnot. Bare blocks are going for $300+ locally, a few years ago you could get them $100 or less. Even if you don't use it, somebody will pay good money for it later.

Swapping a FE into your '57 is easy, it's if you start wanting a bunch of hipo stuff is when it gets expensive. The motor will drop right in using your '57 292 mounts, just flip them side to side. The '57 and '58 mounts are nearly identical, the difference being two bolts to the frame on the '57 and only one on the '58. The usual 'log' exhaust manifolds found on most full-size cars (not hipo or Mustang/Fairlane) will fit with no issues, although those will limit performance. Headers are available (but not cheap) from this guy... Ford Powertrain Applications.

Be aware that there are minor detail differences in various years of the FE. The '58-62 motors used a spring and button to handle camshaft thrust, '63-up used a plate. If you find a stamped steel timing cover, it has the spring/button, the newer ones used an aluminum cover. The older block can be fitted with the plate by drilling and tapping two holes. You'll also need to swap to the later timing chain set and cam. These also had a locating dowel for the intake manifold, the later intakes fit after removing it from the block. The older blocks also had a boss for the generator mount, but this may have been a running change '63-64 as Mercury installed alternators on their full-size cars starting in '63 (little known fact) and had a different block casting for it. You can buy 'conversion' kits for this, look on Craigs List or Ebay. Lastly, motor mount bosses on the block. The 58-64 blocks all had just two bosses each side. In '65 Ford added one for truck applications and another in '66 for the Fairlane (also used for Mustang in '67). Newer blocks will all retrofit into older cars, but not always the other way around.

Want to go manual trans? This can be a bit of a thicket... Better read this... Technical - FE Manual Bellhousings: What are the REAL differences between them? | The H.A.M.B. You basically have to match the bellhousing to your transmission; remember, there's narrow pattern ('64 back) and wide pattern ('65 up) mounting, the bell has to match the trans in most cases. You'll need a few bits of clutch linkage (the motor-mounted pivot is readily available), and may have to modify the z-bar but it's doable.

That broken 9"? Do yourself a favor and at least get a newer OEM housing. The early 'War' cases are considered as the weakest of all 9" housings. They look strong with all the ribbing, but they're not. God knows I broke a bunch of 'em, including spitting the pinion out onto the street a few times with a hopped-up 352. They just won't take big power and/or abuse, particularly behind a manual trans. Same thing goes for those 28 spline axles. You might want to give these guys a call... Complete Center Sections

If you don't get carried away a FE will be a cheaper rebuild than the y-block. With an aluminum intake the FE will actually be lighter than the 292. They are a tough motor and will take a beating.

 

ive partially rebuilt this center in the past, not the first time its been apart.

went to the junkyard today, the engine wont do a full rotation, i think a valve is REALLY stuck. its a 390 fe, z code.

however, the guy gave me a tip in about a truck thats not officially for sale that a friend of his has that he may be willing to sell for cheap as it doesnt have a title anymore. supposedly, that truck had a 428 from a '67 galaxie police car. ive known him for years and i know hes not a liar.

the last time i asked about the thunderbirds engine it was 250, but i forgot to include removal from the hill and removal of the engine, the total price is 400 if i buy that 390, or i can check the mystery FE and see what markings it has, if its story is true, it should have C6AE-a or C7AE-A casting identifier. if it has that, it seems im buying a rotbox 73 f100.

i could be getting taken for a run, who knows, least i can do is call the guy and see what he has.

as for the axle, i think im gonna see about snagging the center out of that thunderbird. good to have a center as a spare to build.

i dont plan on running tires wider than 235, nor grippies. ive always been told that as long as i dont hook im pretty safe for the transmission and axle, minus the fact i siezed a spider.

i kind of do want to get a bit carried away, an alum intake and mild cam in any fe would be amazing... imagine shelby power in a clunker like that... anyway, im going to see about a couple local shops and their pricing, as i like to keep within my community if possible.

the bellhousing situation seems like its going to get very interesting very quick. fun. aiming for a 1958-1964 FE powered passenger car it seems.

 

scattershield....??

 

This truck with the 428, might have a 9in under it, maybe get two birds with one stone.
A set of axles (which you may need because of spline count/bearing size) is around 300.
Depending on what the guy wants for the truck, you might come out spending less.

 

You need a blower, then you'll have an excuse to build a decent transmission and rear end. Then you'll want a lighter car to put it all in.

 

Good. less mystery, more knowledge.

Great IF it all checks out and has all the brackets/pulleys etc. You don't want to bid against big buck FE racers for little stuff.

I strongly agree with this, provided they are providing good quality service.

 

I find that any info that @Crazy Steve posts is pertinent information to be heeded. He's a great resource.
The 390 sounds like a good way to go, it gives you 100 cubic inches right off the bat, plus it will have all of the accessories needed, still attached.

 

called him up, i missed it by a month, another friend of his bought it.

seems the 390 it is.

 

i have the alternator off this car, so not necessarily complete anymore. plus, im only running alt, water pump, and crank so id like to get the single belt pulleys for all 3. the owner of the junkyard said it actually drove onto the hill between a decade ago and 5 years ago, he doesnt remember exactly when. but he knew that engine had a valve that would stick, and bend a pushrod consistently every time it got up to temp... curious, on top of that he did say when it was running, the car didnt have super good oil pressure, not enough to be noisy, but it wasnt making enough on the gauge for him to be happy with it to swap it into another 390 powered thunderbird (that had ran out of oil and siezed) without going through it, he ended up selling the other car outright without ever putting an engine in it.

the junkyard 390 will need torn down and rebuilt luckily with me only wanting a a bit over stock power levels goal is about 350ish, i can assemble this one at home, machine shop is just going to polish everything and balance the assembly. new rings, crank, rod, and cam bearings, lopey cam, alum intake, and maybe headers if they still fit the column shift linkage (yeah i know, a real hot rodder back in the day would put it on the floor... i like it on the column its shockingly convenient there on this model)

the next time i make it back to the junkyard i think my plan is to jack the rear end up and see what the axle does. it could be a stock limited slip, if it is, i'll just get some carbon clutches for it exchange the ring gear with mine, set it up on the bench, and stick it in the car.

if its not i'll probably grab it anyway and spool it.

 

I've done spools and Lincoln lockers on the street. NOT recommended!
This is how I got the T.

 

hey a spool wouldnt break at least

 

That ain't broke, that's welded up! They just laid a bead between a couple pair of teeth on each side.

Hence the term Lincoln Locker

EDIT: Yeah, it's not a special Ford part only used in the Luxury cars!

A spool may not break, but it's not allowing the wheels to track properly when turning. Something's got to give, pushing more stress on everything else.

 

i just found out about the 60s t10, maybe a viable column shift 4 speed is easier to get than i thought. a borg warner t10 would be perfect for my application as they have both the narrow and wide bell housing options, gonna keep a look out for a decent one, drop both the FE engine and 4 speed trans in together as a pair, then its just a matter of a reverse switch for a buzzer when its in reverse and a cable off of... something for underneath the dash.

 

also true... i do want a limited slip. just gotta pay to play

 

Take a hard look at the syncros on those early T10s. They're famous for wearing and popping out of 2nd gear on deceleration (others if they're worn enough). Not a cheap fix either as both the gear and the slider generally need to be replaced, replacing just the brass blocker ring won't do it. The later Super T10 addressed this with backcut teeth.

 

The big three had good reasons for moving away from the T10 and developing their own 4 speeds. The escalation in HP in the early '60s quickly showed their limitations, Ford was the only one who used them beyond '64 and they limited them to behind small blocks only, and even then, only because they couldn't produce enough toploaders to meet demand. B-W wasn't interested in upgrading it either, forcing their hand. The only OEM bigger motor use was by AMC, as they didn't have enough money to build their own.

 

guess im gonna have to see what i csn find then, i really want a top loader but i havent seen one near me for less than 1100 in rebuildable core condition.

 

You might want to look for a OD Toploader. At a glance they look identical to the 4-speed but have a bulge on the passenger side of the main case. In term of strength, they're about the same as the T10, maybe a bit less. The biggest downside is poor gear ratio spread with a 3.29 first, 1.80 second, 1.1 third and .80 OD. The upsides are they're generally pretty cheap to buy and rebuild kits aren't expensive either. There are multiple versions, stay far away from the aluminum-cased ones (these are floor shift only), you want the cast iron case with external linkage. These will bolt up to the common C5T FE truck bellhousing.
Toploader Imposters

If you could find a T85 with the R11 OD, those are fairly stout, enough so that Ford used them behind the hipo 352 in '60 and even the hipo 390 in '61. Not easy to find, and prices are all over the map. They can be a bit pricey if you need many parts too. But they are GREAT cruising transmissions. Ford offered these as an option all the way up to '70 (in F100s).

 

I FOUND THE TRUCK ITS FOR SALE! guy wants 1500 now, original price was 650 for the whole truck!


it doesnt look like much but thats it. thats the 428 sourced from a 1967 ford police interceptor.

it turns according to the seller

 

lol hi Moriarty or Corncobcoupe .. those pics didnt last long did they?

 

hey no biggie, knew i was pushing my luck. it might turn up as a project in the off topic section if i throw a different fe in it to use as a parts hauler!

 

That's a bit much for a questionable donor. 1. confirm all the engine parts trace back to a 67 PI.
2. See what else has been swapped, changed. I don't know the numbers, but power disc brakes? A/C parts and hose on the firewall?
@Crazy Steve , OE stuff?
Fuel pressure regulator and gauge(?) is different. So is the EI box on the inner fender. Gray dist. cap too. EI also?
3. To hedge your bets, ask if they will let you under supervision, pull the plugs, lube the cylinders, rotate the engine by hand and if all goes well, do a compession test. It's a big ask, but show you are serious with cash in hand and an extra battery and tools, plus truck and trailer.
4. look at the rest of the truck for good donor parts and parts you can sell if it doesn't have a title. How much is it worth without your stripped parts?

 

it has points ignition, the engine is the same as it was according to the prev owner i sent pics to. guy hasnt really touched it at all, just listed it and took the carb.

all im going to check is the intake really, if thats a ford blue painted aluminum intake, chances are it is as described the 428 police interceptor. the exhaust manifolds are galaxie manifolds, it matches ohio police car spec with only having power steering. the police cars instead had a white painted roof.

its a single alt pulley and water pump pulley, exactly as most police cars had.

im just curious what all has been changed because the carb is gone, it used to have a 1980s 750cfm edelbrick on it. i cant wait to get my hands on it, guy stopped responding after i asked if i can meet up tomorrow... kind of worried i just burnt the sale

 

Yup nothing else could possibly have single pulleys or a painted intake…for sure don’t check numbers

Any engine I can’t hear run I assume is a core.

 

https://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalo...d-428-70-master-engine-rebuild-kit-1966-1970/

https://barnetthighperformance.com/390-428-fe-engine-rebuilding/

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/rebuilding-shelbys-g-t-500-428

 

the paint isnt what im worried about, its the material of said intake. aluminum and original painted means high performance 428, anything else is cast iron, its a dead giveaway.

im going to check number of course but its quite a bit harder now, theres supposedly a partial vin stamped on engines built in 67, so if i can locate that, if it has a P, its the one.

also possible, he may have confused them, or had different carb on it at one point, this truck has sat for the last 20 years or more.