What have you guys used as a replacement frame for an old hot rod style build for the Model A coupes? Most common is the 1932, I get it. Are there other options? How would the 33-34 years work? What about the 1935-40 frames? Without measuring, I would think that the wheel base is not right if using fenders but w/o fenders that issue is not an issue. I'm very, very green to the early ford stuff. I've been a 60's muscle car guy until the last couple of years. Thanks for your help
Old hot rod style is what the HAMB is all about! Take a look at Model A threads here and study the history. Common is original frame, often boxed to support more HP and speed, the 1932 frames dues to being able to source later V8 engine, trans, suspension and frame, more recently using tubing to replicate the A frame, and lots of cutting and welding of these choices to suit the builder's decisions. There are many different ways to build a Coupe. Figure out the end result you want to achieve and select based on that. You can get a brand new rolling chassis in various styles, or build yourself. Remember that the serial number (now called VIN) on a Model A is on the frame. Plan ahead for title and registration. EXAMPLE https://rjays.com/shop/ols/products/1928-31-model-a-complete-rolling-chassis Another great source for building a Model A is the Vern Tardel book. https://www.verntardel.com/store/p2...del_A_-_International_Book_Award_Winner!.html It will walk you through each part and be a reference. There is a lot of valuable information here on the HAMB, but you have to bookmark it and some find a physical copy is easier to reference.
A lot depends on the other details you intend to incorporate in your build. Tell us more about the car such as the engine/trans of choice and the type of suspension (spring/coil overs) as well as the overall style (original/hot rod/lakes) you are looking for. Also need to have some idea of your abilities and facility where you plan to build it. Can you weld and fabricate and do you have the space and tools needed? Probably the best choice is to buy some reproduction 32 rails as they have a nice side view and are a proven choice for use with a Model A, but using them depends on the factors listed above. Here are a few examples of what can be done. and some info (its for a fiberglass body but some good info ) Here is a frame drawing so you can compare it to a stock Model A frame.
Unless you are installing too much horsepower, the stock frame with modifications is very adequate. There are several aftermarket Model A replacement frames available to make update mods easier. Finally, if you are going to run fenders, a Model A type frame makes the process much easier.
Cars got bigger after the model A. here’s an interesting thought. A Model T body from ‘26-27 fits on a Model A frame almost perfectly. 1932 frame is close enough. It was popular to pinch the rails for a high boy. If you look at ‘33 and later, they are too different. Might as well use an S10 frame kinda thing. Other brand frames of similar era could work but you’ll need a tape measure. You also have the option of using a 1927 roadster frame ( from a company like Spirit industries ) as being nearly the same dimensions as model A you could go backwards as well. Spirit industries builds a Glass Model A on their ‘27 roadster frame and they call the package the A- Rod
Model A frame will be more than enough for most builds if prepared well. Boxing will stiffen up the rails and a good 'K' or 'X' member will help take out the flex and twist so the suspension can do it's job properly.
Nope, there are lots of choices........both good and bad. Its up to you, as virtually anything can be made to work. There are usually good reasons why certain frames get chosen for builds and other reasons why many frames don't get used. The Model A frame will work especially if you box it..........but it doesn't have the nice looks of a 32 because its kinda spindly looking. You can also custom build your own frame as depicted in the first picture I posted above. You can even make a tube frame if you have the tools and skill.
There is No issue I feel with "A" frame compared to 32 ,, Besides the Look wider . A frame Narrow , follows down center of seat Left & Right , making tighter for Exhaust peddles especially if going to be stick car , master Underneath & rear crossmember instock location wanting to set low , third member & axle tub out @ rear body mount , keeping wheel center @ stock location with rear fenders. I over came this by notching Axle tube , Reverse C notch, in that Area. & I boxed & Gussett stock rear cross member fir coil over's . I was using 400 to 434 sbc's . 32 frame follows out side body lines So wider , free up space & making lowering easier, Down side of 32 frame Under A body , either need to cut sub rail on A body for 32 frame or cut & flatten two places on 32 frame So a body sets flat , On 32 frame near Firewall & @ rear where 32 frame start's to kick up right near B area / front of rear tire . Box both Frames A & 32 if plane on Hooking & 400 pds of Torque Plus. I ran No cage / rollbar , Other might see need of , I just did not .
Thanks Mike. When are you and Jude headed to Hershey? I planned on going for a day but hadn't decided which day. Let me know if you would like to spend the day together and I can meet up with you two.
Thanks ek. I mainly wanted to know if ther were other year Ford options. Plenty of nice A- frames around cheap. 32's are out there but condition, cost and location, plus timing to consider. About an hour East of me there is a shop that's been building race car chassis(dirt, drag, anything) and they produce factory copied frame rails and frames They make top notch, perfect stuff and are well respected. Auto Fab in Selinsgrove. I think they will custom fab to your specs. Good people, fair prices. I can get rails from them if I would go that route. Thanks
Terry, sounds like you've got it now. The first question sounded like you were a bit lost. See, the Model A chassis fits all the usual mechanical bits and the body. The bottom of the body is flat, and a certain width and length. That means the A chassis fits best. Later cars have chassis that are curved, both vertically and side to side. They require so much work to make fit that it's easier to start with straight tubing to fit the flat bottom. The 32 frame was shown previously. Here's a 3d of the Model A. Later 33-up frames have even more curves and tend to be bigger.
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