Hot Rods New guy; Model A Drop Axle and Mechanical Brakes

Thanks Stovebolt. Very helpful. I would love to use the lever shocks but my '30 came without any shocks and the lever shocks are so expensive I'm going with tube shocks, but the exact set-up on the shocks has yet to be determined.

In the "other example of the local car", any idea what the lower shock bracket is for/from?
It looks like a forged item. Wondering if it's stock part from something.

I do watch MaineA's videos. I just wish he wouldn't talk so fast..

Again, thanks so much. You did clarify.

robj[/QUOTE]

 

Hey Harald,
It's interesting that the photos Stovebolt posted the shocks are in front of the axle and yours are behind.
Now we're off in another direction that to be honest I've barely started thinking about yet.
How and where is your bottom shock mount attached?

Thanks,
robj

 

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Those lower shock mounts are an aftermarket part from a street rod shop.

Another option if using a Ford axle is a welded shock mount.

 

Do the maths on buying parts for mechanical brakes vs going hydraulic. You might be surprised how much you will start spending upgrading the mechanical brakes vs hunting up hydraulic parts.

Re the front end, Im a bit odd and dont really like the look of a dropped beam axle over a stock one so another way to skin this cat to lower the front and keeping it really simple is Z the frame at the firewall or do what is often known as a Bleed Sweep, which is the same but done over a smoother curve. You keep the A axle then. Thats something you can do with a grinder and your welder pretty much free. But you may have to split the bones then.

Years ago I had planned to do this but never got to it but heres the thread.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hair-pins-bleed-sweep-and-frame-stretch.344670/

If you google Bleed Sweep HAMB you will get a few other threads too.

 

I did do some research on the cost of both. As you need new everything I found the hydraulic to be a bit more than rebuilding mine. I'm sort of going for a late '30's build that maybe a kid without a lot of money might do. I think Z-ing the frame would be out of that kids league.
Had to chuckle when you said you weren't fond of the look of a dropped axle and that's the look I just love!
Thanks,
robj

 

Those lower shock mounts are an aftermarket part from a street rod shop.

Another option if using a Ford axle is a welded shock mount.


Rich, [or anyone else]
What do you see as plusses or minuses as to the shocks in front of or behind the axle?
To be honest, I hadn't given too much thought to the shocks yet, other than I was going to use tube shocks.
robj

 

No worries, I always look at safety and long term value hence my suggestion re going juice. For a small investment it adds value, especially if you plan to drive it in traffic and somewhat spirited. Having had an A with mechanical brakes it would be the 1st investment I would make.

 

Pete,
I've been looking into brakes quite a bit. I'm in the Model A Restorers Club, [possibly soon to be ex-communicated given my current build- those guys are serious] and ridden in a few. Seemed that in good condition and adjusted correctly they stop pretty good, especially the one that had the "Flathead Ted's" floaters.

Going to '32 or so that were mechanical and 12" instead of the 11" I have could be worth it,
but the early juice brakes were essentially the same design, that is they were not self-energizing and without that I'm not sure they would be that much more efficient. Then you're getting into F100 territory or a Lincoln set up.
I've assisted in adjusting Model A mechanicals and they are a bit of a PIA, but it seemed to me once done they were decent.
I do agree they most likely add value but at the same time I sort-of like being contrary.
And to add, I'm and old fart and at 73 I'm pretty conservative in my driving...Most of the time. And really not much choice with a 4 banger.
robj
P.S. Beautiful car!

 

Don't forget about '35 front brakes - 12" drum, 1 3/4" shoes.
32-34 shoes are 1 1/2".

 

Well, I'm from across the pond, and I'm following the conversations with great interest, as this is my first small hot rod, and hydraulic brakes,
even those from Lincoln, are unattainable and very expensive for me,
so I've stuck with the mechanical brakes. A friend's Model A hot rod with mechanical brakes and a proper setup braked very well;
he had a comparison because he'd had one with hydraulic brakes before.
A 4-banger isn't a heavy car either; with the wider tires, it'll definitely brake much better.
Here's my lower mount for the 32-inch axle; it sits in the 1/4" gap in the Wishbone.




Here is my story:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4banger-mild-hotrod.1326542/
Greetings Harald

 

Angled tube shocks in front of the axle are the most common. It gets kind crowded behind the axle, especially with side steer arm and drag link vying for the same space.

An option would be friction shocks mounted in a similar fashion as stock A. Here is a picture of a home-made set-up from an earlier thread.



Another option would be MG hydraulic lever shocks mounted in the same fashion. Not the best picture or application; but should give you the idea.

 

Thanks so much for the extra photos. I was squinting a little to figure out the originals.
Nice job!
robj

 

Dang Rich, thanks so much for the reminder about friction shocks. I had forgotten about that option. I know that some of the Model A restorers go to them as the lever shocks are so expensive and finding used ones to rebuild is really hit or miss.
I seem to recall people saying they wear faster but it not like we're building daily drivers.

And they look not only period but very cool. In the Model A Restorers some have switched to tube shocks but the biggest complaint is the ones that come in the kits are too still. I remember a suggestion was to go with '65 and earlier VW shocks as they were more weight appropriate .
But I'm going to check out the friction shocks and will report back.

robj

 

You can also use Delco Lovejoy shocks. Some were made just for Ford but others can be modified. Best part is some bolt up using original holes.

 

Thanks Pan,
I've never heard of Delco-lovejoy but I like the look of them. I found "Apple Hydraulics" that seem to specialize. in older lever type shocks. I didn't see any listing for this type for Fords. They all seem to be for GM products.
They do have the OEM Model A type for, [gulp] $1380.00 a set. Whatever I do I'm thinking tube shocks on the rear as they're less noticeable and something else on the front.
It "looks" like the part number on the ones in the photo is 1404A/3CF. It looks like the 1400-1500 shacks are for, "
Single arm, front and rear, stamped metal cover

• Buick, Chevrolet (Chevy), Chrysler, Crosley, DeSoto, Dodge, G.M.C. Truck, Graham, International, Plymouth, Pontiac, Studebaker, Yellow

It looks like they just provide rebuilding though.
But it gives me something else to look for.
Thanks,
robj

 

For entertainment purposes only!
Not to highjack my own thread, but last night I felt like doing something that didn't require a lot of thought. I figured I would tackle this "Barn-Yard Billy" masterpiece of "welding" the running board bracket to the frame. Almost 4 hours later, [ok, maybe 1 or 2 beer breaks], 2 flap disks and 1.5 cutoff wheels it was mostly gone. I could see where the entire frame protruded there by maybe 1/8" in a perfect triangular shape of the bracket. This was the drivers side front and the only one like that. {protruding, all had booger welds]
I would have thought it would have been out at the top and in at the bottom but it wasn't.

Unfortunately I didn't realize this at first and may have thinned the metal by a very tiny amount. [maybe 10-15 thou.?] I'm not sure what to do about that and I'm not sure I should be worried, but given other tiny cracks I've found , mostly at and between bolt holes it has my attentio. I have some steel the same thickness and I guess I could cut that section out of the face of the frame and weld a piece in but that would entail drilling out all the crossmember rivets.
I have a crack in the frame at the rear motor mount that was repaired only on the outside. As a result there's about a 5/16" sag in the frame. Maybe I'll fix that first and see how that goes.

As for Barnyard- Billy's welding, I guess it's like what the sailors say, "If you can't tie a knot- tie a lot".
One down, 3 to go...
robj

P.S. The weld glob is actually the wrong side. The drivers side was. even worse...
P.P.S. I do have to say, although it wasn't pretty, it did work. The brackets were tight.