This build may not be using all the old Ford parts in HAMB style, but it should be one of the builds that is referenced for new folks that want to build an A. Get stuff to fit, get the car sitting right, make the parts work together.
As an aside to current focus I did spend most of Sunday looking at driveshaft options after talking to a friend about options for his project and looking for some resources. A quick measure got me in the 36.5” ball park for my project. The pinion is in the wrong position and there is a brace in the way of my tape measure but it’s close enough to let me look for donors. As far as I’m aware my r10 over drive has a bolted on yoke as pictured above. No slip yoke! From what I’ve gathered I think Studebaker trucks and Willy’s truck may have been the only ones to get this option. which means I need a collapsing/ telescoping/ slip joint drive shaft depending on what brand your looking at. I found some JK jeeps have a front shaft that’s right exactly where I’d need to be. However the factory shafts have a weird flange on one end that wouldn’t work and the aftermarket’s with unjoints and a beefy cv joint that I don’t need are quite a bit out of budget. Then I stumbled across this option! Pork and Beaner had suggested a chevy slip shaft and looking around I found this one that seems to be the exact length I need. I’m not a c-10 guy but best I can tell this would be the second shaft in a factory set up that utilizes a carrier bearing. Like an X frame impala etc. I believe I’ve also seen this shown drive shaft listed for both c10 and impala so maybe it’s the same one. If I can find a good used one for cheap that would be ideal but the listed price for a new one is a lot less than what many new driveshafts cost shafts cost these days so buying it when the time comes isn’t the worst option either. maybe a c10 or impala guy could run a tape and confirm this is the same part?
I have never seen an R10 with a slip yoke. K need to check the stock shaft from my son's '54 wagon. I don't remember. The "slip" joint on my '68 C20 flat bed is mostly just a rubber bushing/connector at the front of the shaft. There isn't a lot of movement. Srver 4x4s have a slip joint in the front shaft. Great progress by the way!
@Six Ball surprising how little info I’m finding on the yokes. For as many vehicles that used these over drives I can’t find much talk about that specific bit. I was really curious if I could remove the bolt on yoke and swap a slip yoke in. That would simplify a fair amount. maybe I just havnt figured out the right search words or “stude speak”
I 'll try to do some looking tomorrow. I have both piles of treasure and old parts books. I also have a guy working on my roof and a guy using my computer to take a DUI class. The guy on the roof knows what he is doing.
lol well at least there’s one of you that does. I sifted through a lot of stuff this afternoon and found a video of someone taking a bolt on yoke off a ramble with this trans/over drive and the end of the shaft is threaded. So the yoke is not held on with a bolt into the center of the shaft like a th400 some times has. So I think you’d need to get the exactly same trans, over drive and other parts combo except with a slip yoke and then swap that shaft into your existing trans/overdrive set up. Im thinking for trans parts, a slip yoke, u joints and a drive shaft that $280 for a slip shaft with joints sounds like a much better deal. Though I am thinking that they probably don’t want you installing them at their full extended length so the one I found in the previous post is going to be to short. I’ll have to sort through a driveshaft website or something and find a donor that’s longer that I can cut down. Lord forbid we ever take the easy route lol
Tim, I have an OD trans from an early 60's Lark V8 that has a yoke for a driveshaft (attachments). It looks to me like your trans could be from a C/K body Stude that used a 2 piece driveshaft or a truck as you said.
Yeah best I can figure this car engine was rebuilt and then put in a truck. And then the drivetrain was pulled and bought at auction by the friend I got it from.
There's an easy route? Tim in my last post I was just talking about the other two guys but I understand why you put me in the group, and you are right.
Before I moved to Texas, I needed a custom shaft made to mate up to a motorhome 727 that doesn't have a slip yoke. I took the measurements of everything with pictures to Fast Shafts in Des Moines and they had one done in a few days with the slip shaft as you showed before. It was around $325 if memory serves me, but that was about 20 years ago.
As much as I like the idea of finding an existing shaft that will work or one I can cut down I think having one made is probably the best use of time/ money. found this on eBay and looks to be the ticket. Now I just need $300 and an eBay account. I’m not quite ready yet anyhow but it’s good to have it figured out before I’m ready.
Yeah there’s a lot of them that take a slip yoke. In my nosing around I’m suprised at how many variations of even the same trans and over drive unit there are. Nash Healy - I believe- roadsters got them for maybe two years and they came with an end that was for torque tube!
AFAIK, Stude R-10 OD(short case tailshaft, whether used behind a 6 or v8) used bolt-on u-joint w/a slip-joint on the 'shaft, R-11 OD(long-case tailshaft) used slip-yoke for the output. If you do go the used route, know that apparently there is some unwritten "law" that forbids greasing the slip-joints. Most every slip-joint I've worked with in the past(mostly non-stude, & 4x4, but still...), the splines were worn to the point that swapping slip-parts didn't work. Unless filled/packed w/grease, which lasted for all of ~10 seconds. If there is any movement other than forward n back, suspect that joint to be bad. FWIW. The ones for one of my IH 4x4s got a bit expensive, & that just was a stocker set-up. Marcus...
Good to know Marcus. I’ve seen a few in my googling around that have grease zerks on them, and some mention having seals, I assume in an attempt to keep the grease inside.
I had a driveshaft made for the Chevy when I built it. I want to say the place was called Empire Driveline? Kind of a backyard shop in Kansas City. That was 15 years or so ago though...
Yeah I’ve seen the name pop up Going to start working on the rear springs tomorrow. Using my Sunday internet browsing to look at battery mounting spots. I had intended under the passenger side floor but between exhaust, ladder bars, and saddle tanks it’s really gonna be a squeeze. See a lot of guys put them on the firewall but I don’t love that idea for a few reasons.
So wait would early flathead 3 speed with od transmission parts help? I actually have access to a couple
@The Chevy Pope i wouldn’t mind having them around. They mostly used r10’s which is exactly what I have. Most r10 guts seem to interchange.
Yes, The R10 innards are mostly the same. The cases vary greatly and there are several different kick down switches. Different switches and alternate wiring are options. Solenoids can be repaired, never throw them away.
If there is anything a hotrod guy knows how to do it’s keep and fix getting ready to cut a mount plate for the drivers side rear spring. I think I’ve got it mostly figured out. Getting harder and harder to crawl in and out of this thing as we add stuff but I don’t want to pull the body yet. came up with an idea for lower shock mounts as well since my original idea doesn’t have room to work
Wow @Tim, ground ups are no cakewalk, that's for sure. Your original configuration was not really straightforward either but it's great to have the support from the members here and the others close to home to help round out the numbers and connect the dots.
I got here because this thing was going to run a 153 Chevy 4 banger. I stuck around because it is a cool build and I really like Stude V8s. If you had stuck to the 153 it would probably be on the road and just a little less cool than the Studebaker version.
The Jalopy Journal
