Technical HAIR PINS AND MUSTANG BOX ON 32 FORD???

Sounds like a whole lot of work for little gain.

If it drives good and it's well engineered and assembled I'd leave it alone and drive the wheels off of it.

No offense but if I were worried about what everyone else said or thought my car would change daily....

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I didn't notice how far forward your steering box was...and yes, my steering column (87 Astro van) goes through the floor and is directly "D coupled" to the steering box....no universals.

Yes, a 302/C6. Don't have a good side view but I did recess the firewall a couple of inches and used a 289 "shorty" waterpump and had plenty of room for a mechanical fan...stock length hood.


Actually, a harder time fitting a 302/AOD in my '36 Cabriolet... recessed firewall 5" and still needed a Zoop's serpentine setup to pull it off.

 

You hinted F-100 in one post. Here is how we did a F-100 box ('57 & up arm) in a deuce with split bones (would have the period look you mentioned). Wouldn't worry about heating and bending the steering arms again if needed; after all they are good Henry Ford forged steel.

 

Put the fenders back on.

 

but i want a hi boy coupe... if that matters..

 

thanks for the pics and ideas

 

thanks for the pic... if my box was back like that I could pin it...

 

I don't know if the worried part was directed at me on just a general state ment... but I want what I want when I want it... and usually not happy till i get it... I want a more tradition all steel 32 henry Ford hi boy ....

 

Interesting... thanks for posting...

 

thanks again for posting.... My guess the car was done 50 years ago....it has a real 32 chassis and a really nice steel body...so my thought was kick it back to more traditional looking... the chassis works excellent, nothing weird , and pretty smooth ride... no clanking and such.... but every idea i get short off cutting everything off and starting over...I hit a differant road block.... this whole set up would be bitchen in my full fendered 31 more door Cdan... I'd endup with dropped axel and disc brakes... but it's 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.. I could also use the drilled split bones...

 

here's some better pics of what i got...all ideas and suggestions welcome...
there has to be something i'm just noT seeing... the 4 bars are only 17'' long pretty sure that would too short for a hair pin



here you can see how far the steering box is pushed forward.. I didn't really look at this part with the fenders on.. i seen the 4 bar.. and figured it was an easy swap..

 

If I wasn't 72 yrs old ,and handicap the motor and the whole frontend would have been already removed... re painted and a so cal polished and chrome buick drum covers front would be on ..

 

just wondering.. hair pins are around 27'' if I used a flat top pin, could I run them around 20'' long???

 

even with the mustang box

 

look at this pic... if I use the top mount bolt , and use a flat top hair pin...it would work the same as a stock ford steering....right???

 

the drag link and the top bar of the 4 bar is close to level...parallel

 

pete and jake says it works.....????? page #3

 

thanks for the post...I was thinking... make 2 short flat top hair pins and try it... if it don't work put the 4 bar back....???

 

Pete-Jake-Catalog-2025.pdf


page 3

 

Been a while that I put a P&J 4 bar set-up on; but I don't remember the bars being that short or the box mounted that far forward.

Sounds like the only way to get what you want is to cut it all off and start fresh.

 

Before the days of hairpins, four-bars, and cross-steering, this setup was the only way things were done. A split wishbone is mounted on the bottom of the framerail, and an F-100 or Mustang steering box is bolted to the rail with the Pitman arm sticking up and the drag link running forward.
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/solid-axle-front-suspension-details

 

yeah, this is 2 wrongs won't make a right..