That front clip actually looks like it fits pretty well. I might suggest you set the front sheet metal on and see how it matches up with the wheel openings, its a whole lot easier to shift it forward or backwards an inch or two now, before it is attached. Will the motor you plan to use clear the frame rails that are sitting inside of the struts, with the exhaust manifolds installed?
The motor mounts in that subframe. Everything is laid out for me, so I'd prefer to use it. The stock frame is way to narrow to keep, a whole 10" narrower. I took a quick measurement and it looks like I'll have to modify the firewall if I keep the stock motor position on the cradle. Life would be easier if I could push the engine forwards on the subframe. However that domino's into oil pan issues, and probably other stuff...
Needing to widen the front frame rails 10" is a lot. That is going to present a challenge making the steering column match up with the rack in a very short space. I suspect a major firewall modification is in your future. You may want to sit in the truck and start considering what has to be done to move the steering column towards the driver's door several inches so it will better align with the rack column connecting point.
Actually the steering appears to line up front to back. Unfortunately it looks like it will be at an extreme angle vertically. Im looking into options now. Whats the rule with these double steering joints?
Single steering joints max out at 30 degrees. I have never needed one of the doubles. When I built the Austin I mocked up the steering column with a couple of u joints and some 3/4" wooden dowel. I ended up putting one universal under the dash with the shaft going out at an angle. Then with a firewall fixture and a Heim joint support I cut the dowel and sanded double D ends to fit the joints. Then it is easy to change the length and determine the angle each of the u joint is subject to. I then machine steel shafting based on the dowel lengths.
Its either fun, or its crazy, so, we must be having fun. Why else would we be doing stuff like this? I sure don't consider myself crazy, though I may have heard that word a time or two before... It gets addictive, especially if this one continues to go as smooth as it is starting out. You will likely find yourself doing it over and over again! At least I did... Depending on how well the motor fits into the hole, in the back of my mind I would be considering how to channel that sheet metal down a few inches on the frame.
You couldn't register the car in Australia as the reinforcing plates have square ends, which can cause stress cracking. The plates need to taper from full height to rounded ends at a set ratio for an Engineer to sign off on the modification. You guys in the States really have it easy compared to Australia and most or Europe when it comes to modifying cars. I'm jealous.
No vehicle inspections at all where I live, unless there's an issue with the VIN or something. Some places have smog inspections for 67-later, some don't, it depends on the air quality "attainment" status. Usually only states up north, where it rusts, have regular safety inspections. We just walk in to the DMV with a****le, and walk out with registration. it's scary.
For where I live this vehicle only needs to meet safety requirements for the year it was built. So to pass a state inspection its just brakes, suspension, steering and lights. This truck didn't come with seat belts or backup lights. Other than that they'd look for obviously dangerous flaws, which would mainly be rotted out frames. No modern emissions or anything like that.
On this vehicle we would have to update and pass the following; 1. Collapsible steering column 2. Power****isted brakes 3. Laminated windscreen 4. Lap sash seat belts (3 point) 5. 2 speed wipers 6. Heater and demister 7. A static and drive by noise test. As you re using a late model engine it must retain all its pollution equipment right down to cat converter. The vehicle would also have to pass a beaming test (to see if it will bend in the middle under load) A torsion test (although maybe not as a commercial vehicle) to see how it resists twist then a driving test to ascertain lane change ability, brake tests with first the front brakes disabled, then the rear and the handbrake will be tested on a specific incline. When you see a modified vehicle in Australia (assuming it's legal) it has undergone a lot of testing and would cost around US$2,000 min for the Engineer. My A100 tribute would cost around US$25,000 to Engineer today.
I suspect most states here also have many extra requirements as well, but few are enforced. No need to have it checked by an Engineer. It can get pretty messy if you don't have a state issued ****le/registration and you need to peruse the process of making the vehicle legal as a "new build." Then there are hoops you have to jump through (each state sets its own process). As long as you have a good serial number (older vehicles) or a good VIN number (newer vehicles), they mostly just issue****le and registration after you hand them the money they tell you they want.
That's a deal breaker right there for anything unusual, where you can't get glass. I'm having fun trying to register a UK car in Germany. Not been quite as bad as I was expecting, yet, though I have had to produce evidence (pictures from old tuning books!) that all my modifications are "period correct" and not more than 10 years younger than the car. People do get all kinds of stuff registered here, but it seems to largely come down to how sympathetic the tester is to your cause.
I'd think you could fit an Austin Mini windshield and surrounding metalwork if the Datsun one ever broke. Thats all available.
You can probably thank God our lawmakers are not as car unfriendly as they are in other countries. I think that as long as we car people continue to try to keep the radically unsafe junk off the streets, we will continue to be OK. When the death toll for old cars becomes too high, and non-car people that are in office get their******** in a bunch, things go bad for us. At least here these days, they are leaning towards the side of less emission standard inspections for older vehicles, its a trend that will be very helpful for us.
Looks like all i need to do is trim 3/8" off the bottom of the radiator support and the front clip is where it needs to be. Then need to make 2 brackets for it to bolt on. The inner fenders totally clear all the suspension parts.
Don't have free time to work on the truck for a bit. I can plan though! Thinking about the brake system. The miata booster will not work using the stock pedal layout. Real estate is a premium under the dash and in that corner of the engine bay. So I am thinking converting to a manual 4 wheel disc brake setup. I did this before with a jeep using the corvette master cylinder and metric GM calipers. It worked amazingly well. How would the vette master cylinder work with the stock miata calipers? OR how would this universal master cylinder I allready have work with miata calipers?
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