Technical Case hardened slotted nut source

I know, a bit of an odd post but I’ve got a situation with a stripped rear axle threads on my 34 banjo rear. I know I should replace the axle and I have a spare but I just got my pickup on the road and I am not feeling it to tear it all apart just yet.

The threads on this axle were a little suspect when I put it together but had a buddy who used his thread file on it to clean it up. I thought it would be fine until Sunday when I decided to re-torque both axles nuts after clocking my first 130 miles. It won’t torque more than 50 ft lbs so I added a drum retainer for safety’s sake.

so my plan is tap the threads down one size to 9/16-18” but I cannot source online any case hardened slotted nuts this size.

Any one have an online source for such a fastener? Did Ford use this size nut? If so what’s the part number?

thanks

 

814-065

Why hardened?

 

also

 

well grade 5 nor 8 provide the torque spec required over 200 ft lb. Guess I could go with grade 8 which can be torques to 170.

 

if you make the thread on the axle smaller, you probably won't be able to tighten it to 200 ft lbs, will you?

 

get a lug nut, 611-125 or similar, and cut your own slots into the beveled side?

 

One of these might help, it restores threads from the inside out. Really, you need to replace the axle, 50 lb torque aint gonna work.

 

Case hardening steel is usually 8620 which only has 0.2% Carbon and would be around 60Rc x ~0.010" deep, so it doesn't offer any extra tensile strength over a #8 nut.
If anything, it would be very brittle.

 

used one of those thread files already to clean up the threads before I****embled the rear. Thanks

the only reason I say case hardened is I read somewhere that the original Ford 5/8” nut is.

 

It might be more important that it have a larger hex and be thicker than a normal nut.

 

Not sure if you have the room, but a coupler nut would engage a lot more of the threads. Mc Master-Carr lists grade 8 coupler nuts.

 

that's when a lathe comes in handy, to make a larger part the right size to fit what you're working on

 

The best nuts and threads around in 9/16"-18 might not be able to torque to 200 ft. lbs.

 

Clear “case” of a “hard” headed “nut” philosophy.

Just swap out the axle and be done with it. Really, it’s not a like your 100 miles away from home and a quick get me by is required.

 

Just looked up my old thread where I mentioned the spare axle is one of the “made in Argentina” ones. I discovered I mentioned in that post that it would not fit inside the diff housing.

so now, once again, the search is now on for a good used axle. Let me know if you got one..!!

 

"The best nuts and threads around in 9/16"-18 might not be able to torque to 200 ft. lbs."

Bingo!

 

Not sure what you are saying here. In order to downsize to a 9/16 thread on the axle you would have to remove the axle and turn the diameter down to 9/16........then either chase a new thread on a lathe or try to use a thread die to chase a new thread. In either case, the axle would have to be removed to machine the new diameter on it. 9/16 Threads are not as common as most other thread sizes. Locating a castle nut with that size thread could be difficult. I saw 2 sources on Ebay, both Chinese.

I would not recommend doing what you are talking about. I'd just put the other axle in place and use the correct size castellated nut. You might put a little locktite on the threads before you torque the nut. If you ever have to remove it again and the locktite resists, a little deftly applied heat will destroy the locktite.

If I'm not understanding your problem correctly, then I apologize in advance.

 

A 15mm bolt is slightly smaller than 5/8 inch but larger than 9/16 inch. Might let you put a little more torque on the nut.

And before there is any poo-poo thrown about bringing a metric measurement into the discussion, please remember that most of us use 14 x 1.25 mm spark plugs.

 

I think what I am saying is to downsize threads as a temporary fix until I can find a replacement. Once I down size threads, use a modified lug nut by cutting slots in it and see if I can torque it down to about 150 ft lb.

Really just to see if this works. Today, I did downsize the threads by hand, no lathe just slow and lots of cutting oil. Threads on this “test” axle were very thin on the end of the axle so die cut very well.

the only usable axle I have on hand is an Argentinian one, that I understand is junk, plus it needs to be machined to fit.

 

Also look into NAS Bolt & Nut,
Aviation and Aerospace , industrial for more exotic Fasteners and hardware Not just automotive

 

Look what I found going thru old fasteners for a 7/16” bolt. It’s a 9/16”-18 bolt and castle nut. What’s it from? No idea. Only one in the can. Clearly automotive. Interested in the nut? See what it would cost to USPS it from 91776 to you. May not be worth it? PM me either way.

 

I probably have a few in my bin, too

 

Naturally

 

Die cut threads on something like a spindle (could be) deadly!

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RFD...jOehWGppuBDqyXKRA8CnDH3MZ2Mu2xMGs68mHtSBTsYHu

 

please excuse my ignorance but is there another way to cut threads other than using a die?

 

Rolled.

 

A lathe of course, but they aren't in every backyard shop, same with a thread rolling apparatus, and actually, it's not just the process, the transition leading out of the thread and into the main spindle shaft is the critical part, should have a substantial radius.

This^^^^^^^^^


https://www.google.com/search?q=thr...wczLTEuNi4xyAfmAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp