Got my Willys project running this summer and would like to get it to run a little cooler. Pretty much stays around 200 down the highway. In town or running hard,jumps up to 210-220 and takes too long to recover. Tried 165,180, 195 thermostats, the 195 seems to keep it the most steady. SBC crate motor I used in a prior rod I sold as roller. Always ran 185-190. This car is 1000 lbs lighter, same timing, but the radiator (4 row) is a little smaller. Looking for someone who ACTUALLY has tried adding a larger lower tank capacity to the radiator, and if it helped. The one I’m using now is only about one inch deep, thinking of adding about 3 inches, which would add about 2 quarts capacity. Right now total cooling system is about 12/13 quarts. Been having a hard time finding a different radiator that will fit, can only be about 18”wide x 21” height. Don’t feel like spending $1500 on a custom one, rather say I did it myself.
I just swapped out temp senders in my flathead, and I figured I would drain the system and replace the coolant while I was at it. I brimmed a 5-gallon bucket. Sounds like you have 3 gallons total. Perhaps the radiator is not large enough to hold enough water long enough to cool it before pushing the juice back through the engine. The higher temp T-stats cool better because the water is staying in the radiator longer, where it gets a chance to cool.
With the other radiator it held about 14-15 quarts, that’s why I’m looking for someone who’s added on to the lower tank so it has a chance to cool. Thanks
That is a tiny radiator but 220 isn't crazy hot. I have a re-cored '30s Plymouth radiator in my ;36 Willys with a 14" blower fan an my 354 hemi runs in the 195-210 range, mostly @ the lower end. '35-'36 hoods are taller than '33-'34 hoods but it looks like you could fit a bit taller radiator in your car?
If it stays hot at highway speeds I think you'll need a bigger radiator. Also, you should open up the grille opening. Are the hood side vents opened up to allow hot air out? My custom built radiator cost me about $300.
Yes, your hood looks 4-5 inches taller, think I’ll add on to the lower tank, if that doesn’t help I will have to buck up and have one made. Cheapest ones I could find were about $600, but that still sounds better than $1500. Thanks
Adding to the tank won't do much, it will only delay the time to heat all the water. You probably need more core area. It looks like you could go taller, but then the shrouding will need rework. I have a '39 Willys with '41 front, they too have limited grill area.
I’ve had a couple of shops tell me that and couple said just the opposite. Yesterday I was talking to Tony at Performance Cooling and couple of hours later he called me back, he found a 3 row for a Jeep that’s built for a SBC conversion. It should slid right in and is almost the identical size I used in the other rod when it was working properly. So hopefully problem solved. Thanks
@axel's40 ,,, Was Engine compleat same Swap As in Same fan ," what the Cfm's" Pulleys , temp sender same place ect You get Ideal . If you go to New Rad & pretty much Same issue , or solve's one & not other . Experiment ,, Me I have alot of parts & I test , I think for the Idle temp I would add Like 1/2 gal - 1 gal , like a heater core just to see , Back in 80's was around a 33/34 with BBc Blower full hood , added 2 small rads in one each side of fenders @ running board area , Thought @ speed "temp "is your front bumper & tag removable ? That a High pressure Area. Air being forced to mid & top of Grill , Theres test equipment devices , to do pretty much any testing you wanna do now, or String Go Pro ect. @ idle have you played with pulley ratios.
Pretty much tried all that, like I said, I found a radiator set up almost identical to how I had the motor in the rod I took it out of. Should be fine after I get it installed. Thanks
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