Folks, I have scoured through all the threads about lowering a 49 to 51 mercury. I can see where people have done it in the past, but it seems most of the manufacturers for these cars, especially the custom guys have gone out of business. I’d like to know what you guys suggest, on the proper way of lowering the Merc with the correct suspension components so it actually rides better and is still dropped. I want to lower it 3 inches in the front and 4 inches in the rear, and am considering bagging the rear. I know Shoebox sells a two link kit, but I’m not sure that’s the best path forward. my car has the OEM flathead motor and transmission and currently the stock rear end, but I’m considering putting in the 8.8 Ford rear end due to the disc brakes, and adding disc brakes on the front. I’m not concerned, with modifying the sheet metal in the car to support a bagged rear suspension. Again, I know this has been covered a lot in all kinds of different threads, but what I’m seeing is the aftermarket supply very limited for these cars. Thanks! Sully
Aerostar front coils are said to drop 3” in the front. I wouldn’t take the time to swap a rear for discs. Maybe a better gear. The Merc has a Dana 44. Great rear. I’m keeping mine, rebuilt the brakes and replaced the seals. Running an OD trans so the factory 3:92 gears will be fine. I’ve got rear blocks on mine but thinking about doing dropped rear leafs. Possibly add helper bags just for a small amount of adjustability.
Aerostar front coils and homemade rear blocks. Gonna drop the rear more We built this master cyl mount. Keeps it in the stock location. 60s AMC master cyl
Quickest way that works is blocks for the rear leafs and spacers for the spring plate on the front A arms. Butch's Cool Stuff used to sell a kit. I think they are no longer in business. But any aluminum or steel stock could easily be drilled to make one. Here's what that looks like: I'm no expert, but I think the '49-'50s had a Dana 41 rear and the '51s had a 44. If you're leaving the flathead, the stock rear end & drum brakes are fine. Mine drove & stopped great like that. If you are bagging it, you will be eliminating the parallel leafs and probably upgrading the rear to an 8.8 or something. Mine is currently torn down but will be running the blocks/leafs in the rear again. But I have a 9" rear that should be about perfect width. Not sure the Dana 41 would stand up to the Nailhead that's going in there. I will then have to switch to front discs to match the 4 1/2" bolt pattern. If I was keeping the flathead, I wouldn't change any of it.
I don't see the need for a disk brake rear axle swap on that car if you keep the flathead. The main viable reason would be that you are young enough to only have driven cars with 4 wheel disk brakes in your lifetime and have never actually driven drum/drum or disk/drum brakes on a regulars basis and that is totally possible if a guy is in his mid 40's now. Personal comfort zones when driving are first and formost when the body and fenders hide things like brake rotors.
If I remember correctly, 4" blocks in the rear means cutting and raising the shaft tunnel in the Floor. 3" blocks and a big dip at speed and you can make contact with the shaft on a stock floor pan. Shop wisely for your brake parts. None of these aftermarket suppliers stand behind their products when you don't like how they work in the end. If your thinking about a power booster understand that Flathead doesn't make much Vacc. You'll probably end up adding a pump,,, and still not really like the brakes. Planning ahead as to where to mount things before they are in a box on the floor goes a long ways. Going with swing pedals, pay close attention to the steering column.
Hi Anthony, Can you give more info on the master cylinder you are using … planning on upgrading my master as well. Was planning on 67 mustang, but like that the AMC brake lines exit on the right side! Much appreciated, Ron
Early 60s thru mid 70s (I think) used a master cyl with the ports on the right side Early ones are drum drum, later ones are for drum/discs. There are 2 or3 different bore sizes I’m using a drum/drum 1 inch bore. The same bore size as my merc originally. Here are some part numbers looked these up for an AMC ambassador. didn’t like the way the aftermarket ones put the Mustang master cup at an angle I guess they did this to clear the left side ports. Mine keeps it level. Had to modify the push rod from the pedal. Not hard to do. It’s stepped up a bit to line up.
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